Looking for some advice on a 2wd puller.
 

Ok, well i saw this forum a few days ago, and started reading. Basically i haven't been able to stop thinking about turning my 93 into a puller. I still want to be able to drive the truck on the street. I have been reading this every chance i have gotten. Now as for my truck it's a 93 d350 cab and chassis. it is right over 20ft long. I'm guessing i need to box the frame, get rid of the d70 and get something with a locking differential. need a bigger clutch. meatier tires, ladder bars. mainly looking at ways to get the power to the ground. In my mind there is no point building the engine if i cant get the power to the ground. I am new to pulling, and i probably won't be doing any big pulls, mostly local pulls. well here is the pictures of the truck. there is 11ft from the back of the cab to the back of the bed sorry for it looking so rough, it has been a work truck for 19 years. it will get some body work, and some paint.

Thanks in advanced for all input.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...38306053_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2674475_n.jpg

IMO, that would be a fun 2wd puller!

But you are right, I would put quite a bit of work at first at getting the truck to hold any amount of power! Ditch the D70 and go as big as your wallet allows in the rear. Block the suspension, good traction bars and a well built hitch are going to be next after that.

You can have quite a lot of fun with the VE, but sooner or later its going to need swaped for a nice P Pump, but keep that later down the road.

X2 on what Jeff said.
Heres a buddy of mine that fixed His first Gen. He ran a s110 axle and blocked his suspention. had his VE cranked wide open.


And your right its all about putting it all to the ground.
It CAN get expensive...lol (ask me how I know) Ive figured out what stock parts can hold and what is a weak link. Those will show up quick. But any questions ya have we will do our best to answer. It is alot of fun trust me.

Biggest thing is dont get discouraged and have fun.

step one find the rules for the organization you plan to pull with and see what they will allow. you may be limited to a 1-ton rear end, and here you get 30'' hitch height in 2wd. but other than that i agree with the above and mostly have fun with it.

Is that a solid axle up front? I know the new c&c have a solid axle and a 4 wd conversion is super simple. you literally pull out the front axle put in a drive axle, drive shaft, and the t-case and your done, the worst part would be paying for it but still older 4wd like that have cheap running gear.

Wow, i did not expect this much responce over night. Thanks

BossHawg- The only thing that i'm not 100% sure on how to do is build ladder bars.

Lynn- Thanks for the video, i will ask questions i know there will be alot.

schrowang-I will look for the local organization.

Beeby- It has an Independant front end. I've heard it is easy to swap, but the parts are hard to find and expensive.

Not a problem it takes a little time. Removable ladder bars wouldnt be that bad to build. There are several threads you can search through to find some really good info on that stuff. Main Diff between 4wd vs 2wd is they need to be longer. Mine come up to almost the front of the cab. Im completely redoing my set up right now so if i can ill snap some pics this weekend.

You guys did a good job covering the basics very well.at this moment I can't think of anything need to add ecept lot of HORSEPOWER. and $$$$$$$$$$$.
you will get alot of help from all of these guys.
Dale

everybody loves horsepower!

Oh, and one more thing i would look into.............Most brush pulls wont mind your wheels base at all, but you never know, some people can get all up tight about all kinds of weird things.....


Oh and one other thing I noticed and might want to put this up top. Your going to need a VERY good clutch!!!!!!!!

nonsense, any old clutch will do... once

:hehe:

pics would be great of the ladder bars, and i will have to upgrade the clutch soon. I can slip it with the mild mods i have now. Do ya'll think I need to upgrade the drive shaft as well? It needs work done, but if i need to go bigger then i don't want to waste money on this one. The u-joints are bigger than the ones that came in most first gens, for some reason it has 2nd gen u-joint, at least i know they're the same as a 3/4 ton 94.

Not to hijack your thread but I also have been looking into doing some of the local pulls. I have been reading on here and looking at pics of other trucks.
This is mine, minus the running boards now
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...s/IMG00542.jpg

Here are the rules for the pullers around my area,


2012 Great Plains Pickup Rules

General Rules

1) All weight added must be fastened securely.
2) If there are any weights or equipment lost during the pull, you will be disqualified.
3) All vehicles will be in neutral or park while being hooked and unhooked, with the drivers’ hands in the air.
4) Two flagman preferred, one at 75' and second at the end of the track, they have the right to stop the pull for any reason.
5) The entire truck must remain in boundaries until the 300' marker or the puller will be disqualified.
6) No passengers will be allowed in the truck while pulling.
7) There will be no class jumping.
8) Classes may be combined providing participation.
9) No split rims allowed.
10) All trucks are subject to a random check at any time.
11) All trucks will start with a tight chain. NO jerking or shifting manual transmissions.
12) All safety equipment needs to be in good working condition.
13) No pulling from the fifth wheel hitch. (Must have clevis with stock hitch).
14) 2 WD and 4 WD may compete in same class depending on participation.

Stock 2 & 4 Wheel Drive

Wt classes 5500, 6500, 7500

1) Pump gas or diesel only. Must be street legal working lights etc.
2) No engine swaps, OEM intake & exhaust manifolds.
3) No strokes allowed. No after-market ignitions.
4) OEM carburetor or fuel injection only.
5) No chips allowed. Stock drive train only.
6) No body swaps or alterations, working flat beds allowed.
7) Must hook from bumper or receiver hitch, must have clevis or pintle eye.
8) Maximum hitch height 2 WD = 30", 4 WD = 27".
9) No lift kits must be factory suspension, no suspension blocks.
10) No weights outside of body.
11) Must meet safety requirements.
12) Tires: DOT 33" High x 13.5” wide max. No cutting or grooving.

Super Stock 2 & 4 Wheel Drive

Wt classes 7500, 8000

1) Any OEM factory production motor within body manufactured under 510 cubic inches.
2) Single carb only, after market carb allowed. Factory fuel injection only, no modifications.
3) Aluminum intake allowed, no tunnel rams or sheet metal intakes, 2" spacer maximum.
4) Factory motor heads only
5) Any type ignition allowed. No magnetos.
6) Engine in stock location.
7) Chips allowed and programs allowed.
8) Must have stock pickup box or full flatbed. Needs to be stock body.
9) Stock frame & wheel base.
10) Traction devices, lift kits & blocking rear suspension allowed.
11) Weights not to exceed more than 60" from center of front axle.
12) Drive shaft loop required on the rear shaft.
13) Maximum hitch height 2 WD = 30", 4 WD = 28 “.
14) Must meet safety requirements, seat belts must be worn.
15) No nitrous, propane, or alcohol. Water methanol allowed.
16) Hitch not to exceed a max rise of 6” and an unlimited drop.
17) Stock receivers must be in good condition with no broken welds or bent tubing, some type of improved
receiver is highly recommended but not required.



Rules and safety rules for all Modified classes.

1) # 2 Fire extinguisher minimum within drivers reach.
2) Master kill switch required 12" or greater above draw bar, no more than 6" off center.
3) White reverse light, lit when in reverse, 2" minimum diameter. Back up horns (alarm) recommended
(but not mandatory).
4) Must have working neutral safety switch.
5) SFI flywheel shield and blanket required on automatic transmissions. SFI steel bell housing required for clutch system. All flywheels must be SFI approved, no gray iron.
6) Drive shaft loops mandatory, 2 per shaft minimum 6" overlap from U joint covers. U joints will be enclosed 360 degrees, 5/16 minimum thickness or complete drive shaft enclosure. Planetary Must have full enclosed shafts, 5/16 steel or 3/8 aluminum.
7) Harmonic balancers to be SFI approved or enclosed with 360 degree shield 1/4 inch thickness to exceed the width of the balancer.
8) Must have engine shields from bottom of head down.
9) No engine driven fans.
10) Upright headers or exhaust only.
11) Wheelie bars mandatory on 2 WD 5"x 5" pad or 25 sq in surface area per pad. Capable of supporting weight of truck no closer than 2 inches behind rear tire with maximum height of 6 inches off the ground.
12) Rear bumper bars and front tow loop required.
13) Full firewall in cab, front and rear glass required.
14) 2wd, no more than 15' from center of rear axle to front most part of truck including weights.
15) 4wd weights no farther than 60" from center of front axle. Hitch point to be no closer than 24" from axle center line. Max of 144" wheel base.
16) Hitch must be ridged in all directions with a 3 x 3 ½ inch hole.
17) Maximum hitch height 2 WD = 30 inch, 4 WD = 27 inch.
18) Must have lug nut covers on rear axle.
19) Lift bodies must have operating doors or escape hatch.
20) Helmets, fire suits, gloves and seat belts required. 5 point harness is preferred.

Modified 2 & 4 Wheel Drive

Wt classes 5500, 6200

1) One automotive style engine in stock location, Maximum 510 cu inches.
2) Any cast head, same make as block. No aluminum heads. In stock configuration, any iron head.
3) Cast block only. Stock boar spacing.
4) Aftermarket intake allowed. Allow tunnel rams. No sheet metal.
5) One carburetor only, any cfm limit. Small blocks can use aftermarket fuel injection.
6) Pump fuel or race fuel only. NO Nitrous.No methanol fuel.
7) Any type ignition allowed. No magnetos.
8) Upright exhaust only.
9) Any rear end. If planetary, it is mandatory enclosed drive shaft.
10) Two transmissions allowed (totally enclosed). Two forms of shifting (only) automatic and rear end.
Allow 2 speed locked on (rear end).
11) Tires, Any DOT or Ag Bar approved tires at 20 PSI, Max of 35 x 16.1 x 16 (110 in circumference)
pro cut tires. No duals, split rims, or professional pulling tires.

Pro Modified 2 & 4 Wheel Drive

Wt classes 6200 Light, 6200 Heavy

1) One automotive style engine in stock location, Maximum 540 cu inches.
2) Any Head except Hemi style head and no 4 valve heads.
3) Naturally aspirated only; any Intake,carbs or injection. No blowers or turbos.
4) Race fuel or alcohol allowed no nitro or nitrous.
5) Any Rear end.
6) Tires, max size equivalent to 18.4 x 16.1 2 WD
7) Tires, max size equivalent to 34 x 15.5 x.15 for 4 WD



Super Modified 2 & 4 Wheel Drive

Wt classes 6200 Light, 6200 Heavy

1) One automotive engine, Blowers, Turbos allowed.
2) Maximum of 2 valves per cylinder
3) All Blowers and turbos must have all straps and shields.
4) 30" drawbar height for both 2 & 4 WD.


Pickup Rules will be in place for 2 years, beginning 2012

Are those rules pretty universal? Is it likely that my local rules will be similar?

These are the rules in the Minnesota area that is near to me.

STOCK DIESEL 8500

1. Stock as delivered from factory

2. Weight bars are prohibited. weight in box only

3. All drivers must have a valid state drivers license.

4. The OEM drivers restraint system is mandatory and must be worn. No passengers allowed

5. The fuel must be a #1 or #2 diesel only . No nitrous oxide, propane, methanol, water or any other oxygen extenders allowed.

6. The hitch must be a factory Resse style hitch. The hitch height from ground may not exceed 26". The hooking point must be horizontal' and must have a minimum 3.00" x 3.75" deep inside diameter opening for sled hook.

7. Stock suspension only. No traction/ladder bars. No blocking, clamping, or preloading of suspension. No air bags If airbags are on truck, compressors must be disconnected and stems removed.

8.The tires must be DOT street tires.

9. Factory STOCK turbo only.

10.Aftermarket air filters and air boxes are permitted. Aftermarket exhaust permitted. Programmers and computer chips permitted.

2.6 Diesel 4x4 Truck

Weight Breaks

2.6: 8000lbs. weight is with driver Minimum weight of 7500lbs.

Regulations

Ballasts:

Ballast is permitted. Front hanging weights are allowed, not to exceed 60 inches forward of the center of front axle. This will be measured from center of front wheels to end of weight assembly ballast may be added in the bed of truck.

Body:

The body must be the OEM truck body, including the full bed floor. The body must retain full sheet metal, aftermarket hoods are permitted. The hood must be closed and securely latched while the vehicle is hooked to the sled.

Brakes:

Four-wheel hydraulic brakes are mandatory.

Chassis:

The OEM chassis is mandatory. The engine must be in the OEM location for the body used. The vehicle must retain the full OEM chassis. Wheel tubs, back-half conversions, tube chassis. ect, are prohibited.

Cooling System:

Radiators must be in the stock location and be of at least stock size.

Credentials:

All drivers must have a valid state driver’s license.

Driveline:

An OEM transmission and transfer case are mandatory. They must have been on a one-ton or smaller pickup.

Driveshaft Loops:

All trucks must have at least six inch wide u-joint shields around the rear u-joint constructed of at least ¼ inch steel or 3/8 inch aluminum that will safely contain the u-joint and the end of the rear shaft. All shields must be securely mounted to the vehicle. Any front shaft u-joint that is visible from the side of the truck must be shielded to contain the u-joint and the end of the shaft.

Driver Restraint System:

The OEM restraint system is mandatory and must be worn.

Engine:

The engine is limited to a stock- appearing, Engine and transmissions can be interchanged between Dodge, Ford, and GM as long as they came in a 1 ton truck or less from the factory. Complete engine must have stock appearance except where otherwise noted in these rules. Aftermarket intake manifolds are allowed.

Exhaust:

All vehicles must be equipped to direct exhaust upward. Two 3/8 inch diameter bolts must be placed through the exhaust pipe in a cross pattern within one inch of each other, within 12” of the turbo.

Fire Extinguisher System:

A fire extinguisher system is permitted. It must be securely mounted.

Firewall:

A complete OEM fire wall is mandatory

Floor:

The complete OEM floor pan is mandatory

Fuel:

The fuel must be #1/#2 diesel, Soy/Biodiesel fuel. No propane or NO2 permitted or any other oxygen enhancers.

Fuel Injection Pump:

The fuel injection pump is limited to a stock-appearing, OEM engine model-specific pump only. The use of multiple high-pressure common-rail fuel pumps are legal. Powerstroke engines with a single factory turbo may utilize a second HPOP. Pumps from different years in the same engine model may be interchanged. P7100 pumps are allowed to run RSV (ag governors)

Fuel System:

Racing fuel cells are permitted.

Hitch:

The hitch must be a “Reese”-style hitch; reinforcements are permitted. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hooking point must be the rear most point on the vehicle and must be rearward of the stock location of the tailgate. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. Bumpers may be notched or removed. The hitch’s height from ground may not exceed 26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum 3.00” wide x 3.75” length inside diameter opening for the sled hook. The hooking point must be a minimum of 44” from the center of the rear axle to the center of the hooking point. The hooking point will be measured to the center of the clevis loop.

Rear End:

Non-OEM rear-end housings are prohibited. It must have been an option on a one-ton or smaller pick up. Rear axle bolts must be covered by a cap or shield.

Steering:

The vehicle must retain the full original OEM steering gear. The vehicle must retain the original power assistance, if it was so equipped. Additional stabilizers are permitted. Non-OEM power assist methods are prohibited.

Suspension, Front:

The upper mounting point for strut assemblies must be in factory location. Adjustable caster/camber pillow ball mounts are permitted. The lower control arm may be strengthened provided factory-mounting points to the chassis are maintained. The lower mounting point for the strut assembly may be modified for improved caster or camber. Strut tower braces, lower tie bars, sway bars, and limiter straps are permitted. Traction bars and devices are permitted.

Suspension, Rear:

An OEM-style suspension is mandatory. Lowering or raising the vehicle height with suspension modifications is permitted. Traction bars and devises are permitted; they must be bolt on only; welds are permitted for attachment to frame or axle housing. All OEM suspension mounting points must be retained and used. Sway bars, limiting straps, and camber kits are permitted. All rear suspensions must use at least one working shock absorber per wheel. Aiebag sprind assistance is permitted; airbag compressors must be disconnected. Blocked suspension is permitted.

Tires:

The tires must be DOT street tires. Cut tires are prohibited. 102” Max outside tire to outside tire.

Transfer Case:

Non-OEM transfer cases are prohibited. The transfer case must have been an opition on a one-ton or smaller pick up truck.

Transmission, Automatic:

Non-OEM transmissions are prohibited. Aftermarket torque converters, valve bodies and internal components are permitted. Transmission brakes are prohibited. Any non-OEM floor mounted automatic transmission shifter must be equipped with a spring-loaded positive reverse lockout device to prevent the shifter from accidentally being put into reverse gear. A functional neutral safety switch is mandatory, All transmission lines must be metallic or high-pressure-type hose. All vehicles using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a transmission shield meeting SFI Spec 4.1 and must be labeled accordingly. A blanket-type shield is permitted; it must be appropriately labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1 and it must extend from the rear of the block to the front of the transmission main body the bell housing area is to be completely covered six inch overlap where it is fastened. All non-blanket-type shields must incorporate two ( or one, per manufacturer’s instructions) 3/4” by 1/8” straps that bolt to the shield on each side and pass under the transmission pan unless the transmission pan is labeled as meeting SFI Spec 4.1. All vehicles using an automatic transmission must be equipped with a flex plate meeting SFI Spec 29.1 and be covered by a flex plate shield meeting SFI Spec30.1.

Transmission, Manual:

Non-OEM transmissions are prohibited. Aftermarket internal components are permitted. A clutch meeting minimum SFI Spec 1.1 or 1.2 is mandatory on all vehicles. All manual transmissions must be clutch assisted. Sequential shifters are prohibited. All vehicles equipped with a manual transmission must Have a flywheel shield labeled as meeting minimum SFI Spec 6.3 or greater. Applications for which an SFI Spec flywheel shield is not available may use a properly attached SFI 4.1 or 4.2 blanket that completely covers the bellhousing; it must be attached to the block and extend rearward to the transmission with a minimum six inch overlap where it is fastened.

Turbocharger:

The vehicle is limited to a 2.6” inducer bore single turbocharger. The compressor wheel must protrude into a 2.6” bore for 1/8”. The inlet will be measured using a 2.65” plug the plug must not be able to enter the inducer bore. A stock map width enhancement (MWE) groove is allowed. No MWE groove will be allowed that has a width greater than .200”. All provisions allowing air into the wheel other than via the bore and the MWE groove are prohibited. The vehicle driver will be responsible for making compressor wheel accessible for tech personal to measure bore and be able to inspect compressor wheel.

Water Injection:

Water injection is prohibited. All systems components must be removed from the truck.

Ice Water Intercoolers:

Are Allowed.

Wheelbase:

Maximum wheelbase 158”

3.0 Diesel 4x4 Truck

1. Maximum weight 8000lbs. Minimum weight of 7500lbs.

2. Trucks must remain stock appearing. Must have full size steel or OEM type body. The bed of the truck must have a metal floor, if bed floor is gutted 200lbs. of moveable weight must be placed rearward of the centerline of the rear axle.

3. Maximum engine size will be 460 cubic inch. Engines must come from factory in one ton or smaller Diesel pickup truck. Engine must remain in stock location as intended by manufacturer.

4. Front of engine block can be no farther forward than 17” of centerline of front axle.

5. Hook point must be no closer than 44” of centerline of rear axle, hitch height maximum of 26”, with a minimum of a 3.75” X 3.0” opening. Hitch point must be easily accessed. No “trick” type hitches permitted. Hitch must be stationary in all directions. Hitch must be frame mounted. Hitch must be mounted centerline of rear axle or behind. Hitch must not exceed a maximum of 25 degree angle from pivot point to hook point.

6. One turbo with one pressure stage permitted. Maximum of 3.0” Opening on intake wheel. Map width enhancement is allowed not to exceed .250. Compressor wheel must protrude into three inch bore 1/8”, intake housing may not exceed three inches turbo mounting plates are permitted.

7. Exhaust must exit straight up, with (2) 3/8” bolts mounted in a cross pattern no more than 1” apart as close to the turbine wheel as possible, no more than 6” from turbine wheel.

8. No cast iron clutches or flywheels permitted.

9. Fuel safety kill and or air shutoff must be installed on rear of truck. Kill switch will be securely mounted to the back of the vehicle and have a two (2) inch diameter ring to attach the sled.

10. No fuel lines or tanks permitted inside of truck cab unless securely mounted in marine box.

11. Computer chips and boxes permitted.

12. Fuel Systems Largest fuel injection pump allowed will be a P- Pump with only one plunger per cylinder. ( No Sigma pumps).

13. Must be D.O.T. approved tire. Maximum tire height 35” no studded tires or chains. No alterations to tires allowed. No bar or terra tires. Dual rear wheels are permitted.

14. Water injection permitted.

15. Front weights must be no more than 60” from the center line of the front axle to forward most point and be securely fastened. No weights are allowed in cab of truck if in the bed of truck they are to be securely fastened to bed of truck.

16. Fuel limited to diesel fuel and bio-diesel only. No alcohol, nitrous, propane or any oxygen enhancing agents allowed.

17. Drive train will consist of the following. Any front axle, any transfer case, any rear axle. No planetaries permitted.

18. Axle shields are required. Shield to be .060” thickness steel or aluminum. Shield not to be mounted to axles ends or hub bolts. A hole may be cut in one to allow locking in of hubs.

19. S.F.I. Bell housing Blankets and/or SFI Blow proof Bell housing required.

20. All U-joints must be shielded 360 degrees and with 3/8” thick aluminum or 5/16” thick steel. Shield will be 6” long minimum and centered on U-joint. Inside diameter of shield will be no more than 2 inches larger than U-joint.

21. All intermediate shafts between the transmission and transfer case will be totally enclosed in 3/8” aluminum or 5/16” steel, ¼” of shaft may be visible.

22. Suspension modifications are permitted. Removable suspension blocks are permitted.

23. Fire Extinguishers, helmets Snell 85 or better, SFI Fire suits, shoes and seatbelts required.

Maximum wheelbase 158” and 102” maximum track width (outside tires to outside tire).

Tech officials will have final say if truck is in question. Safety will not be sacrificed by an unsafe vehicle or driver.

I know the one I posted before is great plains pullers. Thats who is in my area. They are not real picky on there rules. A few of the trucks(24valves, dmax, and psd) were all runnin stock class with tuners. I know for a fact that two of the dodges had aftermarket turbos and traction bars. They all ran stock class and than ran modified.

Ok, i have been reading the Traction bars thread, and i have decided that i will probably Make a set of removable A-frames. only thing is, How long do i need to make them? do i need them to come up to the front of the cab? or would that be too long? I mainly want them removable, because i still plan on being able to drive the truck on the street.

you want them longgg, mine come to the back of the cab. try for the middle or the front of the cab.

alright thanks.

Alright guys, now that i have a general idea (very general, I'll keep researching this) of getting some power to the ground, i need to know how to make the power. I want to know ya'll's opinions on whether i should p-pump the truck from the get-go, or play with the ve for a while. I could also Play with the ve while building a p-pump engine outside the truck, I'm guessing if i went that route, it'd be smart to build a transmission at the same time. Would i be better getting a NV4500, NV5600, G56, or could i go with a transmission out of a f600 or similar truck?

The bars need to be pretty long so that if you ever get enough power to lift the front end for a good margin of the track, you will not bend the frame. That is a whole lot of weight hanging up front.

That makes since, and do you know how hard that Gif makes it to read a thread?

Haha!!!

As far as the P Pump swap, it all comes down to $$$$, If you have the money now to get a benched and balanced P Pump plus all the parts to swap over might as well do it. It realy takes about an afternoon to do it, so its not like the truck will be down for too long.

If your going to have to save up, might as well find an engine and throw some parts at it when you can, and when thats ready to go, its just a simple engine swap!

I will have to save up. So i think i will go with the engine swap idea. i can get a p-pump engine out of a school bus fairly cheap around here. But i don't know what to do about a transmission. what are ya'll using?

Edit: Do i need to box the frame or will it be strong enough with the traction bars?

NV4500 has lasted 3 yrs in mine, pulling 2nd gear.

ill try and snap some pics of my bars and everything while i have her stripped down.

Alright Thanks, I figured i should upgrade the tranny, the getrag needs rebuilt anyways. I could just look for a nv4500, and swap it out. Pics will Be nice Thanks

2nd Gear in the Getrag will be fine for starting out. Just overfill the trans by 1 qt of synthetic 5w-30 engine oil.

I would keep it VE'd but that is just my personal preference. :D Spend $15 and get a 4200 RPM spring. If you need it, I will get the part number for you.

Get a set of 5x12's from Weston on here.

Get a HE351CW from an 05-06 Cummins if you must run a stock turbo. Otherwise I would suggest a nice 63/68/.90. Your VE will need nothing more unless you go 14mm H&R but then reliability of the pump goes way down.

Cheap fuel supply is a Holley Black or the knock off Procomp Black. Set at 14psi and 160gph should supply most of the fuel you will need. The stock diaphragm lift pump is junk.

And finally a 7.3L Superduty intercooler with metal ends fits into the stock IC location with minimal trimming. Get a set of CoolerTubz from Tim Worline to round it out.

Now you have enough power to do something to the truck. LOL

so i should get a 4200 spring, i just bought a 3200 a while back. i haven't put it in yet. for the turbo I looked up the rules and it says a 2.6 I'm guessing that's the intake on the turbo right? I've been meaning to upgrade the lift pump. I figured I'd need more than 5x12, but i really am a newb on injectors. I'll look for a 7.3 intercooler, but what about a 2nd gen intercooler, my cousin has one just laying in his shop? how much bigger is the 7.3? I like to fabricate, so i will probably make my own 3" tubes.

here's a link to the rules. Middle Tennessee Pullers Association - 8500 lb. Stock Diesel Truck Rules

alright, well I was looking around today, and started looking up tires. I like my 19.5's so i am planning on running them, and i may pick up 4 more and swap tires when i'm gonna be pulling. what do ya'll think about these, The 2nd one only comes in 225 width, but the 1st one is a 245. In the rules i am only allowed a 1 ton drivetrain, so i guess i'll be looking for a drw dana 80? or is there a better 1 ton axle?
https://www.treadwright.com/p-31-245...dog-m-t-g.aspx

https://www.treadwright.com/p-19-225...crawler-f.aspx

Thanks

Shaun

If you can run a bigger turbo than stock, a 63/68/.90 would mate nicely with 5x14's.

If the 2nd Gen cooler is free, then use it. A little more work than a 7.3L but still better than the stocker.

A DRW D80 would be enough. If going that route I would look to Yukon for axle shafts and gears. I had a Yukon full spool, Gearset(s), and Axles in mine. I put several hooks on the axles.. Never broke one but sure did put a twist on em. Got to the power level that i kept shelling gearsets every few hooks.
I would also advise to get a girdle kit for the D80. that will solve a lot of those issues. Hope it helps.

Alright, so should i just start out with getting the yukon stuff, or wait till i break it? And what is a girdle kit?
I could probably get the intercooler for free. He has a Dana 80 setting there too, but it's srw. could i swap my drw stuff over to it?

no real need to swap the drw hubs. Just put your dual wheels on that axle. Unless the wheels will not clear the brake drums, or is too narrow and the tires hit the frame, but you shouldn't have any issues. If so then a set of wheel spacers should work. Also, I now you plan on driving the truck still, but your gearing is what will really hurt you. A NV4500 is 2nd gear with either 3.54 or 4.10's is really too fast of a gear for a 2wd. If you don't mind slower speeds and alittle higher RPM, I would recommend swapping to a 4.63 or 4.88 rear end gear plus some 33" tires. Only other option would be to find a NV5600 6spd with a transfer case and run 4th low with 3.54 or 3.73 gears. You could try running 2nd high with the NV5600 with 4.10 gears, but I doubt the mainshaft in the tranny would last over 1 or 2 hooks. Also with the full spool, you will hate driving it very much, especially on wet roads. You best option would probably just to make it a track only pull truck and drive something else. But to each thier own i guess.

You are gonna need a good set of injectors. I suggest a 5x0.018, 6x0.016, or 7x0.015. Somewhere around that geteral area.

dana 80 girdle plate - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

post #8

A girdle will help keep the main caps in the rear end from flexing and shelling teeth off your ring gear. It will also keep the housing from flexing as much.

Thanks everyone, I can't get another vehicle to drive until after graduation. I will be graduating in may, then i should be able to afford a newer truck. So my plans were to play around with the sled at the local antique tractor pull until i got the newer truck. Then the 1st gen is gonna be a full time puller. I've heard good things about 6x16 injectors, so i may go that route. I'll get the tape out and see if my wheels will fit the srw 80 that my cousin has.

so which one would you suggest? the one that replaces the cap or the one that extends out towards the ends of the axle?

I never had a problem with my axle tubes twisting.. but as mentioned above i got to the point i couldnt keep a ring and pinion in more than a few hooks.

If ya have the extra cash i would try and get the longer one... but the single cover would work just as well at your power level.
When ya get ready to go full time puller with her, Id suggest a 2 ton rear end IMHO.

I wonder if the local pullers would mind if i had a 2 ton rear end? the rules say 1 ton drive train, but it's a 4x4 class. I would rather go ahead and get the 2ton, instead of changing the rear end twice. I'll try to contact the local pulling association.