rear billet freeze plug install Q
 

I am trying to install one of these without pulling the trans. I have it in there so far and starting to snug up the bolts. The single on the turbo side is tight as hell, the other two will still turn (tightly) but don't want to strip the block.

My Question is: does this set completly flush aginst the block?

It seems like the bottom (towards bellhousing) is flat but the top has a slight gap. One bolt on each side is also not counter sinking evenly. I know the bolts are going in the block straight...

thanks!

fyi, i owe all this agony to Farm Truck Diesel...this sucks!!

I would think it sits flat, but I have never seen one. it is a machined surface. does it have o rings? are they binding up? maybe the holes are drilled wrong?

From what I remember the bolt holes are differnt depths in the block. I would be sure the bolt isnt bottoming out in the hole.

It has one large o-ring that makes the pressed in seal. I made sure it was lubed up with some thick gear oil too.

good point, the bolts where all equal lengths...im guessing maybe 3/4" thread length.

It fits flush... I just needed to bag up and tighten them down a little more. I took everything apart and made sure i had plenty of hole, its a nice piece.

If anyone has to do one while the trans is in...it kinda sucks. You would have to pull trans i think to get the old plug out, mine blew out so i didnt need to.

I was able to put one on a 12V with the trans on. I actually just put a plate over the factory one.

Do you have a link to this by chance?

FREEZE PLUG, REAR, COMMON RAIL, BILLET ALUMINUM Haisley Machine
the center is 1/2" npt, i used a aeromotive aluminum plug from summit racing instead of using their bypass.

I made mine out of steel plate...torch grinder and drill. It worked fine for many years LOL kept the plug from falling out!