2007 2008 Grand Cheorkee Diesel

6BT-DAKOTA

New member
Im thinking of buying one, and im looing to see what kinds of issues they may have. I have to admit that I dont know anything about them at all I dont want to buy something that has "Typical" issues, like 55 blocks or fuel injection pumps . . Im just looking for some insider information and experiences good or bad . . .

Thanks

Rob
 
If it was only made for 2 years I think I would stay away. It was a limited run so any parts you need will be dealer only, which can be expensive. Then to find someone knowledgeable enough to work on it can be a struggle as well.
 
I think im not scared to buy something that was only made for 2 years as long as they all didnt have the same problem, like all of them needed their injectors changed at 45,000 or they had issues with the lift pumps not working properly and them taking out the injecion pumps or the blocks crack like a 55 block . . . . Stuff like that. . . .

thanks
 
they have a v6 MB diesel, probably not its only use the world over. its like the chysler crossfire, that thing scoots and got the full MB treatment when MB was in with chrysler. I looked for one when looking for a asecond vehicle, but ended up with crd liberty instead, big brother was twice the price.
 
The only problem the 07-08 CRD's have is the swirl flap motor getting gunked up from PCV vapors. A GDE or Malone tune shuts off the swirl flaps fixes that though. DPF's can be "fixed" also, they both have tunes for that. If you find a nice one for a good price, I wouldn't think twice about grabbing it. The Mercedes V6 is a tank motor that's super common, parts availability isn't a problem at all.
 
I have one and love it! over 110K on the clock right now with no major issues.

I bought it at 80K previously one owner religiously maintained, the service records only show some minor A/C work

The two issues that are common are: CCV back into the intake (causes the Swirl Motor (Part of the EGR) to fail)
and a bad batch of crank position sensors.

Fixes:
Crank position sensor with the correct build date, easy to change or check if you find one. I was able to take mine to the house and pull the sensor during the test drive.
Route the CCV to atmosphere or catch can, replace the intake tube with one with an updated seal.

If you don't want to run a tune Shibby Engineering sells a resistor that disables the swirl motor preventing it from failing. They also sell an aluminum plug that will fit inthe intake tube to plug the hole where the CCV used to be.
 
Just replaced the fuel filter and added a cone element air filter to mine today

Still ticking at 110,000+ miles!

F26177AD-5737-4069-9579-EBF8C0C5C5AE-219-0000003F5EA17978_zps3fbf91de.jpg
 
Why did you downgrade to a hot air intake?

I'll be watching the IAT to see how it compares to the box, the box was usually 10+ warmer than AAT on average unless you are 90+ mph

There is a lot of open space feeding out side air to this area from around the headlight, grill, and underneath.

I can always build a heat shield later on if the temperatures are that much higher.

I'd be interested in seeing the Post Turbo/Pre Intercooler temps as the charge pipe runs along the top of the motor and gets VERY hot. Due to that I have a feeling the IAT differences with the cone filter might be negligible.

The jeep also has more pep and sound after this modification
 
Why did you downgrade to a hot air intake?

Results from driving around, town and hwy speeds with the intake.

Jeep is black and AAT was reading 100 yesterday in west Texas around 6pm

IAT would read about 120 at idle and drop down to about 104-110 when cruising, the box would sit around 10*+ warmer than AAT when cruising so this is sucking just as hot, sometimes cooler air


not much of a downgrade
 
I'll be watching the IAT to see how it compares to the box, the box was usually 10+ warmer than AAT on average unless you are 90+ mph
Yet you've lost the high quality paper element and instead use a poor filtering "cleanable" element with less surface area.

The jeep also has more pep and sound after this modification
That is the only thing that has changed. You are associating the increased noise level with "power" even though it has not changed.

not much of a downgrade
Keyword.
 
Out side of the sound it does have more SOP pep.


I'm still hard pressed to believe that this makes much post turbo difference on temperature through the charge pipe as it sits in the engine valley and is about 2" diameter. Compressed air pre intercooler is going to heat up, the differences I saw in IAT, including the DROP in temp I would think is negligible post turbo.

I will need to find a temp gun to confirm this but I'm really not that concerned about it...

If you have set up performance upgrades on one of these motors I'd be interested to see what you have due to the aftermarket being incredibly limited for the OM642
 
If I ever get another "reliable" DD I have some big plans I'd like to try out on this little motor. I think its got a lot of potential and seems to be very well built.

I've been contemplating using this engine in a small light car down the line. A good online resource online (thats in english) would be nice.
 
I think its got a lot of potential and seems to be very well built.

Unfortunately its a "throwaway" commercial engine in Europe, Mercedes just markets it as a luxury engine in the USA.
The actual luxury engines are the improved 240/265hp models.
 
Unfortunately its a "throwaway" commercial engine in Europe, Mercedes just markets it as a luxury engine in the USA.
The actual luxury engines are the improved 240/265hp models.

I can see that, unfortunately its what we have over here to use, I still think there is potential.

If the Thai guys can get 700+ hp out of there 4cyl single turbo common rail I think I can do something with this outside of just a GDE or CustomSpooling tune
 
Back
Top