Triangulated 4 link options
 

Starting my suspension build soon on my 94 4x4 SCLB and was going to back half it with one of the 4 link back half kits untill I was pointed in the direction of a trangulated 4 link setup. Was told the regular back half kits are not built tough enough for a high powered 7000lb diesel and a triangulated kit would be much better suited for my needs.

Now the best I can describe the truck is it will be built as a Diesel Power Challege truck. So by this I mean it has to race, pull, tow, and whatever else they do nowadays. I just really want to set it up the best I can, even if its expensive.

Looking into these triangulated kits I see they come as a single or double. Not sure what would suite me better. Most of the info out there is for rock crawlers and trail trucks so I dont really know how to translate it into useful info for me.

If its a single do I want the triangulated links on the bottom or top? Ill prob come up with more questions as I get even more confused on the subject.

You want to keep the triangulated links on the top and have them come together on the axle end. It will give you a better roll center then if the lower ones were triangulated. The problem is your fuel tank is right in the way. Good luck. Let us know how the build goes.

Android using Tapatalk (probably @ work)

Fuel tank in the bed. Space is not an issue. I was told to go with a double setup if I have the space. This is what I was thinking but I do not know the drawbacks if there are any.

I would also like to know the issues with same length 4 links vs longer/shorter setups.

theres a 4 link calculator somewhere on the web. I used it about 3 years ago and it help alot. I was building a 2.5ton mud truck so im sure you may setup defferently. As for bar length It was a percentage off of the lower bar thats makes the upper bars. I think it was 30% shorter than the lower but not 100% sure.. I will see if I can find it for you.

Heard Pirate has one. Ill check it out when I have some time.

4 bar linkage calculator:
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...V3.0metric.xls

Pictures with what to measure:
Pirate4x4.Com - View Single Post - 4 link mocked up ...Tell me what you think

Your vertical CG should be at the center to top side of your rear crankshaft flange.

joe farmer's links are the one's you want use and listen to

read, read, read--measure, measure, measure---you can use pvc pipe for mock up tubes--

I'd use heims(big mothers 1 1/4") here's a kit that lot's of 4x4 guys use:

Link Kits, Brackets, & Tabs - RuffStuff Specialties

what are you using for springs/shocks???

take your time and build it right---if you can't stay to the exactness of the calculator dimensions I'd not worry, tons of guys get it close and it works---the calculator is the 100% perfect system and sometimes you just can't do it---

top bars are usually 70-75% of the bottom bar length---

stout mounts with extra bracing is your friend......chris

Considered a trailing arm/ladder bar style and coil overs?

Have talked with him about this.

pvc, good idea, ill use that

Same kit I was told to use

Not sure yet, I was going to order the kit and get that under way before I worry about that. I would like some advice on what would be the best to run. I was thinking about some kind of adjustable coil over but I guess I am not to sure about anything as of now.

Good to know.

I was going to brace it as much as possible, due to the amount of power and what I plan on doing with it.

on the coilovers go with 2.5" minimum and 3" would be better--I'd talk to someone with extensive 4x4 experience on what rate springs to start out with if you go coilovers as it's a pain to change springs numerous times(trust me)--so you want to get close to start---

possibly you could try some front springs and shocks though, but I'm just brainstorming with that idea---good luck and keep us posted.....chris

Chatted with Brandon and the more we talked the more he thought a beefy triangulated 4 link was the way to go. Most of the other kits I have looked into are quite flimsy compared to the one I plan on going with (at least as of now).

I personally like AFCO or Strange double adjustable and I'd recommend them in your application.

like this?

AFCO Racing Products 3270 M2 Shock Double Adjust

Closer to these: AFCO Racing 3750 - AFCO Racing T2 Double Adjustable Shocks - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Or a set ready to run for $660 on page 115-116 of Strange's catalog.
Strange Engineering

I'd probably start with 150 or 175 in/lb springs, depending on how much you leave of the factory bed/frame/hitch/etc.

What is the proposed advantage of this vs the other 4 link method?

Why would anyone spend that much on a shock that was not a King or Fox 2.5 or larger? Then can easiily be valved anyway you need.

Triangulated keeps the axle centered without have to use a Trac bar. There a couple different 4link setups.

Wishbone locater. Much stronger and keeps centered during travel.

Looking at your setup vs a triangulated version doesnt look stronger to me.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...k/7cdd27c3.jpg

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...l/18df15e7.jpg