Looking for p pumped 24 valve knowledge
 

I just purchased an 01 p pumped 24 valve Cummins. I am trying to sort out what in the world is hooked up to ECM and what isn’t. Every wire not used is still just hanging there. The first issue I’m trying to fix is the tach. I found the cam sensor threaded in the front of the front cover. My tach will read for about 5 seconds and then stops working. The threads on the cover look course and the threads on the cam sensor is fine. I took it out and the threads are of course all chewed up. The end of the cam sensor looks like it was making contact with the gear itself. If I buy a new sensor should I be trying to get the signal from the front cover? It seems odd and is real close to the fan. Will a new sensor fix the tach or am I not on the right track?

The other issue is the breather. It’s on the front cover and has a short hose on it. I believe this is pushing oil all over this truck. What is the correct (clean) way for these conversions to be done. I bought the truck with the idea to sled pull in the street class. I’m just trying to get a better understanding of what all is done and if all these lost wires need to be in the engine compartment. Any help would be appreciated!

The correct way to do it is buy a conversion timing case and mount the cam pos sensor correctly, that’s a lot of work to pull a case though if you’ve never done it. As far as wiring from what I recall from my 01. All alternator wiring, ac Comp, coolant temp, cam pos sensor, lift pump or tied into an aftermarket one, map sensor, intake air temp, oil pressure, and apps. If I remember correctly the only thing on mine was the plug to the vp44. I used a hand shut off cable so if the truck has a FSS then wires to that. On mine all I had was CEL for the vp44 everything else was a visible PID on a scan tool

First off the cam sensor shouldn’t be threaded they have a tab to put an m6 bolt in. Sounds like it’s on the tin cover not on the back side of the timing case? It should be between the p pump and the vac pump

As far as the breather goes I’d plug the front breather off and install a 12v tapper or and aftermarket one that is baffled.

Pretty curious on the cam sensor snap a picture of what you’re dealing with.

I’ll try to get a picture tomorrow. It sure does appear to me it’s jammed right in the “tin” cover. I thought it was supposed to be below the injection pump but I’m just learning what these conversions are about. I have no clue what was done to this truck but the power puts my stock 2015 6.7 to shame. I would like to get the tach working since that’s an important thing for getting setup dialed in. The hx35 seems to be modified too. The waste gate was moved that makes me think it’s been changed. It seems to run about 38 psi. The unknowns really have me intrigued to say the least.

I’ve ran a 12v tappet cover that has the factory breather, and added 2 -10 bungs in the top of the valve cover with hose ran to the ground on my ppump 99 and it’s been just fine.

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Attachment 70459[
QUOTE=TheSilverBullet;2676009]First off the cam sensor shouldn’t be threaded they have a tab to put an m6 bolt in. Sounds like it’s on the tin cover not on the back side of the timing case? It should be between the p pump and the vac pump

As far as the breather goes I’d plug the front breather off and install a 12v tapper or and aftermarket one that is baffled.

Pretty curious on the cam sensor snap a picture of what you’re dealing with.[/QUOTE]

Get the cam sensor adapter and put it where it belongs under the pump. It will work a lot better, assuming it has the 24 valve cam in it still. As far as the crank breather, I just went through this. Ditch the one on the front cover and either use a 12 valve tappet cover or a 3rd gen 03-05 valve cover set up. I just did a 3rd gen setup on a customers truck and it is by far the best solution I have came across yet. 900 RWHP truck, towed his drag car about 800 miles round trip with out a drop of oil.

Wut in tarnation........lol. Definitely pull the timing case cover and verify the cam gear has a tone ring on it. I run a 12v tappet and the 03 style valve cover on mine and controls oil well. Definitely looks like it’s cobbled up by cousin eddy. The hx35 looks like nothing special also has been pieced together looks like.

on the tone ring that's on the back of the gear... can you press a gear on the cam backwards? I never saw that one before lol

So I’ve looked at a couple 12 valve front covers in our freightliners at work and they don’t have a hole where this cam sensor is jammed in. It looks like a factory hole that may have had a plug in it or something. I will need to get the years of oil build up off this thing so I can dig in and see where this cam sensor belongs. I’m baffled because I just went for a drive and it picks up signal sporadically that doesn’t appear to be incorrect on the tach. It s just that the signal isn’t consistent right now.

There’s not supposed to be a hole like that in the cover. Some one had to add that. My 2001 would work intermittently when it had a piece broke out of the tone ring. I thought these trucks needed rpm signal for the alternator to charge so it must be getting some kind of signal

Well I’m no longer going to be shocked to see cobbled together parts on this truck. I’m starting in the back and working my way forward. I looked under the dash and saw what looked like dollar store butt connectors with bare wire sticking out of them. It takes about 2 seconds to shorten a wire up before making a crimp and it wasnt done. The good news is I bought this because I felt it was a good AFFORDABLE foundation to get into the local brush pulls. I teachi metal shop and feel it’s a good learning tool for my students. I just need to figure out what’s been done that I can deal with and what needs to be changed. My priority is to get the chassis setup so I actually have a chance to get whatever power the truck has to the dirt. It’s open in the front and rear so I need to investigate lockers and spools. I’ve removed approximately 300-400 pounds from the truck so far. It was at 7460 lbs before. I priced auto meters tach and still haven’t eliminated that option. If I can get the factory tach to work that would be great and would allow me to put money somewhere else. I appreciate you guys chiming in.

I think it's autometer that has the new diesel tach adapter that works off of the alternator. That and a self regulating alternator would get you around that problem. Just a thought.

Tone ring?
 

So I ordered a new cam sensor off eBay it is supposedly a Cummins part and I still have no Cam signal. I do believe this is the tone ring that I need to correct? I have an old auto meter tachometer that I am trying to just get a signal from to eliminate variables such as a poor ground between the cam sensor ECM and the gauge cluster. I have a Ground at the cam sensor. I have one wire with 5 V and I have third wire that has between 1.5 and 2 V. My top picks up a signal for approximately five seconds and then drops to zero I can’t get the auto meter tech to pick anything up at all. Any ideas????

This is the front and back side of a 2001 cam gear. you need the signal from the back of the gear case and back of the gear. not sure where you grabbing it from. They sell a billet adaptor to use the 01 sensor in a 12v front cover, crazy carl has them. If you still trying from the front there will be nobody home.....

So my cam gear has been flipped around. The ring is on the front toward the cover.Someone welded a nut on the front of the timing cover and the cam sensor sits right next to the breather. I’ll post Picts. I’m trying to save the purchase of an expensive aftermarket tach but I just can’t seem to get anything to work. I have full adjustability to set air gap and nothing. I have voltage but I don’t know what the correct voltage should be.

Picts
 

Here are the pictures

I assume it's setting a code as well? I'm not sure about this, but if it is on the wrong side of the cam gear the signal may not be what the ECM is looking for. If it works for a few seconds then drops out, it must be getting some sort of reading. If I had it in my shop I would:
A: Scope the sensor and see if I am getting a good pattern. If not, the sensor/wheel are at fault. If it is getting a good pattern but things aren't working then the ECM isn't getting what it needs.
B: Pull the front cover, turn the cam gear around, get a sensor adapter, and everything should work correctly.