Drive filter question

Ghostman

Ghostman

24v crazy
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
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I noticed after about ~500 miles I started losing drive pressure to my BOV and gauge. I thought surely the filter is plugged and was suspecting an issue with the temporary copper line I'm using. Well took it apart and good knight! Whole filter was FULL of soot and water, I'm glad I have it to keep that from getting into everything else. Now it makes me wonder how dirty my truck really drives??? I cleaned it up best I could but might need those little brass looking conical screen. Where can we source those? How often do most typically have to clean the filter?
 
Originally we had a screen in the middle but we've since dropped using them because they didn't seem to make much difference.
If your talking about the actual filter inside the cap, those are just an air muffler rated at 40micron. mcmaster.com has them 4450K1 as well as many other industrial supplies.

Draining is a necessary evil with any DP monitoring system.
 
I used to run a filter but have long since deleted it. The filter was always plugging, freezing, or delaying the pressure readings.

Soot is sub-micron in size, so there isn't a filter that will stop it (at least in this application). With the added volume of a filter you get increased condensation (as you have noticed).

I say delete the filter, make sure you don't have any air leaks and call it good. I haven't had any issues in the 3+ years since I deleted the filter and in the 1 year I ran the filter I was working on the system every few months.
 
AH64ID said:
I used to run a filter but have long since deleted it. The filter was always plugging, freezing, or delaying the pressure readings.

Soot is sub-micron in size, so there isn't a filter that will stop it (at least in this application). With the added volume of a filter you get increased condensation (as you have noticed).

I say delete the filter, make sure you don't have any air leaks and call it good. I haven't had any issues in the 3+ years since I deleted the filter and in the 1 year I ran the filter I was working on the system every few months.
Click to expand...

The filter he is running is a water trap so its supposed to trap moisture and we provide a drain cock on it to remove the moisture.
Running a BOV or any other device that cycles does breath volume in and out. Without the DPPT it will lock-up really quick as the BOV and/or gate will become the first open volume for the moisture to deposit.
 
Does the BOV vent to atmosphere when the DP drops?

Filtering soot just seem futile, and counterproductive to daily use.
 
Its been working for us and many other customers.
Time between heat cycles, time of the year, etc. seem to have a huge effect on the moisture build up rate. So far its been manageable.

Ghostman- do you have any pics of your install?
 
I run this dppt and I don't see how you run gates, BOV's and such without it. If you only have a DP gauge, it's easy to backflow, but you have to catch it before it totally plugs off.
 
I have some pics I'll post. It's not the greatest/cleanest setup right now cause it all gonna get ripped out VERY soon for the compound install. I just put it on for a short time to hold the BOV closed.
 
Hmmm. Starting to wonder about copper lines cooling quickly and drawing in more moisture. I've been using coated steel or SS.
One shop said they could hear a header like ping noise off one DPPT install with a long copper coil. Header ping is metal cooling.
My '99 2500 we ran 3/8" SS + 1400 deg. and no sign of any real heat getting to the trap's o-rings.
 
After hard runs the copper going into the trap is cool next to it, but crazy hot off the manifold ofcourse. Copper is one of the fastest heat conductors so maybe it is condensing moisture a lot? I will be changing it all to SS very shortly with the twin install, and changing location and mount.
 
I think the high mount and heat from the turbo might actually help avoid condensation if your not seeing a lot of water.

The DPPT could almost be mounted to the manifold considering its construction is the same as our gates as far as the ability to take heat.
 
You might also consider putting a gate valve on it instead of a petcock, then plumbing that into your exhaust pipe. No mess.

I've considered putting an electronic solenoid valve on mine so I can just push a button inside the cab while driving to blow down my trap. A long enough run of tubing before the valve, and a short shot at low EGT's shouldn't damage it. $.02 But I only blow my home brew trap down every couple months, so its not really a big deal to do it manually.
 
I've been considering a similar setup, something automatic.
But I feel the simplicity will be lost. Ironing out the install parameters should help extend the service intervals. I went months between drains as well.
 
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