How many hours to replace oil pickup tube?

Was a little worried when I started it for the first time yesterday. Took quite a bit of cranking(about 8 seconds). This morning it was 32 degrees, waited for the wait to start light to go off and hit start..... 3 seconds later it was started. Next time warm it took less than 2 seconds. Not like a first gen, but just fine for this. New starter turns the motor over way faster than the old one too. Now if I can get the fuel leaks stopped, I'll be good .
 
Liking it so far. Starts quick, and a lot quieter since we milled the face of the exhaust manifold flat.
 
Made it 70 miles before crapping out again. :doh: This time got a check engine light about a mile from home, pulled into my driveway and started up the hill when it crapped out. Restarted a couple of times for a second. Left it alone for a couple of hours and tried again. This time no check engine light, no start, and no wait to start light. I'll check the oil level in the hp reservoir in the morning.
 
Does this have a chip piggy backed to the ECM? I had one fry and did a similar thing. Would random die then wouldn't start for a long time. But when it wouldn't start it had no engine light or wait to start light.
 
Check the fuse (30A) that feeds the fuel heater, if blown it will take out the ecm and the heater bowl element usually shorts internally. Common on the OBS models.
 
Mo Smoke said:
Check the fuse (30A) that feeds the fuel heater, if blown it will take out the ecm and the heater bowl element usually shorts internally. Common on the OBS models.
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I checked the fuses. Doesn't have a chip. I'll talk to the RV place down the road and see if they have a scan tool. If so I'll get it towed down there and looked at. Glad I didn't sell it when I got the oil problem fixed. I'd be getting hate mail about now.:hehe:
 
Checked it with a scan tool today P0113 and p0603 came up. Went to check some other things and turned the key on. Started right up. Did notice a wire harness hanging all by it's lonesome. They unhooked my ex. brake(I never use it and it doesn't work any way) so I don't know it it went to the brake or if they forgot to plug it somewhere else.
 

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Put a scan tool on it yesterday and found that the injector pressure at idle is running around 660 but is only raising to around 750 by 2000 rpm. Put a new icp sensor in this morning and tried it again. On start up they were at 850 or so at idle but eratic when raising rpm up to 1500. Saw readings as high as 1200 with noticeable unevenness. As it warmed up slightly the pressure at idle dropped down to about 670 at idle and just under 900 at 2000 rpm. I guess the next thing will be to replace the solenoid. I figure by the time I get to $2500 in parts I'll replace the radiator cap and it will work fine.
 
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Ron,

what is the IPR % on your scan tool at idle and at 1500 rpm where you are seeing the low pressure. You may have a high pressure oil leak
 
Started it up this morning and it's running smooth. Cold I was seeing 775 20% at idle, 875 21% at 1500. Decided to drive it up to the corner and at light throttle(around 1400 rpm 25mph I was seeing around 900-950 18%. Heading up a slight grade at around 1600 rpm I saw around 1200psi 16%. Turned around and cruised back to the driveway (slight down hill 25-30 mph) saw between 850 and 900 psi and around 16%. Parked in the driveway it was back to 575 at idle 14%. Just starting to see the temp gauge move off the cold peg. Only other odd thing it's done a couple of times is stall when I take off the emergency brake and take it out of park at about the same time.
 
I did not replace the pigtail when I replaced the icp sensor. I will splice in the new pigtail, clean, and put dielectric grease on it this morning.
 
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