lets see pics of traction bars

DavidB said:
Ok, been pondering this...standard long traction bars that run to the bottom of the frame and bottom of the axle resist the twist of the axle in conjunction with the front (fixed) end of the spring. The axle wants to rotate up, so the spring is in tension and the bar in compression. That will effectively kill wrap, but if you build them in an A frame attached to the top and bottom of the axle with the front hooked to a shackle or similar, it's going to lift at the mounting point vs. push forward at the mounting point like the long ones mounted only to the bottom of the axle. SO, here's my thought/question...if the A frame style is lifting the frame, isn't the other end forcing the axle down and planting the tires harder = better traction?

Here's an example. See the Wraptor. DIY4X are good people. http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm
Click to expand...

Yes but as has been stated, the arc and angle of the bar fights the springs arc and angle change as the spring compresses. This is why some do not like A frame bars for the street.

A single bar setup also fights the axles movement but since it is mounted less rigidly the struggle is more subtle

Other than that an A style setup is superior in keeping the pinion pointed in the direction you set
 
DavidB said:
That's the best looking I've seen.

Have you ever drug them over a rock or anything? I'd like to build some that will stand some impact abuse. Probably have to end up looking like a desert race truck link.
Click to expand...

a friend of mine uses 2" .250 wall mild steel for his links on his rock crawler and they have been drug across many rocks. they still look good. that is what im going to use when i make mine. might possibly plate the sides too, who knows.

Garrett
 
Here is what is working with my truck. Home built but works


P7246080.JPG
 
White Knight said:
Yes but as has been stated, the arc and angle of the bar fights the springs arc and angle change as the spring compresses. This is why some do not like A frame bars for the street.

A single bar setup also fights the axles movement but since it is mounted less rigidly the struggle is more subtle

Other than that an A style setup is superior in keeping the pinion pointed in the direction you set
Click to expand...

Look closer. That bar is made for offroad, where suspension travel is more important. The front end is mounted to a shackle to allow movement forward and backwards, and it allows swivel. Staright bars use the leaf spring as a link, whereas A frames to all the work themselves, leaving the spring free to do it's job. Quite superior to straight bars.
 
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SSpeeDEMONSS said:
a friend of mine uses 2" .250 wall mild steel for his links on his rock crawler and they have been drug across many rocks. they still look good. that is what im going to use when i make mine. might possibly plate the sides too, who knows.

Garrett
Click to expand...

Rock crawlers aren't generally as heavy or powerful as our trucks. Mine weighs 7k, has a Dana 80 in the back with 38" tall, 90lb ea military surplus tires. Like you said, prolly gonna need to be plated.
 
antiwrap2.jpg


My idea is a little different and would add even more freedom of movement. Pics when I do it.
 
Wickeddiesel's would work great except for articultation, which wouldn't matter unless you were rock crawling, and who rock crawls a diesel ?


ladder20bars20007.jpg
 
DavidB said:
Look closer. That bar is made for offroad, where suspension travel is more important. The front end is mounted to a shackle to allow movement forward and backwards, and it allows swivel. Staright bars use the leaf spring as a link, whereas A frames to all the work themselves, leaving the spring free to do it's job. Quite superior to straight bars.
Click to expand...

Here are my thoughts: For purpose of example consider a leaf spring with the axle mounted perfectly in the center, if the spring compresses and the axle moves "x" inches upward and moves back "a" inches the pinion would ideally still be pointed in the same direction relative to the ground (ignoring shackle up/down movement)
The A frame will move back "a" inches due to the shackle, but will rotate in an arc relative to the joint, and will attempt to change the pinion direction to keep the pinion pointed in the same preset orientation to the said joint at the point of the A (again I ignored the shackle movement for simplification) The difference is minimal in the suspension travel range of our trucks, but I think it might become more significant in a suspension that actually has some travel to it.
That's my reasoning anyways. I still believe A frames fight the problem, where single bars fight a result.

Discuss :pop:
 
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Yes, the spring and shackle will arc...but not enough to change the pinion angle negatively or significantly. The major selling point on th A frame is that it should plant the rear axle and give you more traction by translating the axle's rotaional force into upward force at the shackle end and therefore downward force at the axle. How much, I do not know. I do know offroad guys that have gone A frame and noted that the can climb much better with it. Maybe I'll do some straight bars and then the A frames and see. Normally they run one a frame, but I would run 2 to make sure each axle gets an equal planting force. Of course you also have the twist of the driveshaft planting one tire harder as well...antisway bars should help with that. I think most HD trucks have them, but mine have disappeared for more articulation.

Straight bars are also going to fight axle movement in pretty much every direction, but in a flexible manner, since you're basically creating a 4 link with the uppers made of springs.
 
I would imagine that incorporating a hing to replace the factory block would give the A-frame a more unconfined range to work in

I never really liked single bars as the 4-link they create has semi-variable uppers and force the spring into an s as they travel :bang It seems both styles need a little more work to be perfect....
Proper chassis setup is a little over my head
 
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:charger: they work reallllyyyy good lol, this was the forth try for a friend of the stax family
 
track bar i made up ,,, they work
 

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with them on the truck
 

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How do you go about getting the toplink or jhonny joint, or whatever you use into the dom tubing? I know on my caltracs they have a smaller threaded end welded on the tube.
 
I bought I bought 3-point hitch from a tractor and lathed them down to fit into 2" DOM They work great
 
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2" ID 2 5/8 OD .316 wall pipe 72" long cat 1 hitch slides right in there.
 
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