Head gaskets

1066farmall

New member
Hello my buddy has a 2011 lml. It is in need of head gaskets. I mostly work on powerstrokes but he wants me to tackle it. I have pulled a few cabs and plan on doing it for this job. My question is what is the best place to buy all of the gaskets? Thanks for any advice!
 
Does that kit just come with “C” gaskets?

Depending on how long the truck has been running with a bad head gasket the heads will likely be warped.
 
Does that kit just come with “C” gaskets?

Depending on how long the truck has been running with a bad head gasket the heads will likely be warped.

Yes.

The correct way to do gaskets is to pull it apart and replace with whatever grade it has on each side. Or you can measure your piston protrusion, and possibly go thinner. The Merchant setup is nice, but if you know exactly what you need, run to the dealer.

I would also take a look at Lincoln Diesel. Very respected. Complete LML Head Gasket Kit
 
It hasn't ran long after it started blowing coolant out of the overflow tank. But I'm still going to get the surfaced and figure out what gaskets to use.
 
Started on it tonight and my lord there are a lot more electrical connections than the old 7.3 lol anyone have a write up on cab removal so I can go over it all? Just seemed a lot easier to go with the cab off with the truck needing head gaskets and up pipes.
 
I've never done one like that, but some guys swear by it. Probably find the most info on duramaxdiesels .com
 
There's two 10mm ground bolts around the front bumper that are easy to forget and a electrical plug. Fan clutch and shroud assembly come out pretty easy once you remove the two idlers off front cover. Other than that pretty straight forward.
 
Well I got everything off and it wasn't to bad. The drivers side head had a grade b gasket and the passenger side head had grade c. I have the heads at the machine shop to get checked and surfaced. Anyone know how much piston to valve clearance is needed?
 
There is no need to measure piston to valve clearance with a stock cam. As long as the valves are set to the correct depth below the deck surface of the head after machining, you only need to measure piston protrusion to get the correct thickness head gasket.
 
Grade A: 0.0088-0.0108”
Grade B: 0.0108-0.0128”
Grade C: 0.0128-0.0148”

There are also gaskets for over bore and deck milled but I’ve never seen one of those in a factory engine, only our crate motors and they are very few and far between.

Be very sure to get all the crap out of the bottom of the bolt holes, they fill up and will really F your world up when you try to torque the heads down.
 
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