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Durallymax · 03-09-2010, 01:08 AM

1.And now the front stack is out of the way. And now lets work on the wiring.
2.There is just a small wiring harness that needs to be disconnected and swung out of the way. Start at the passenger side and work your way over. Starting with the plug that is plugged into the A/C dryer, then the coolant overflow bottle plug (low coolant sensor), then the Alternator, then the two plugs on the A/C condenser. Also unhook the wires from the bracket that secures them to the thermostat housing. Then disonnect the two big bale connectors. You will also need to disconnect the “HOT” wire that connects to the back of the alternator using a 10mm. Also, you will need to disconnect the “Hot” wire that feeds the glow plugs using a 13mm. And finally, disconnect the firewall ground at the rear of the drivers side of the motor using a 10mm.

3.Now lets get the A/C Compressor out of the way. If you have already decharged the system you can remove the lines like Tom did and leave the A/C compressor attached to the motor. But if you did not decharge the system then you will need to remove the serpentine belt and then remove the 4 bolts with a 15mm and swing it over so it rests on the passenger side battery.

4.Now lets go underneath and remove the wires down there. Starting on the drivers side. There is one ground to remove using a 14mm. Then on the front of the motor remove the two bolts holding the plastic wire support onto the oilpan using a 10mm. Then remove the 2 ground bolts on the passenger side using a 14mm. Then remove the nut holding the starter wires and tranny cooler lines to the stud on the oil pan using a 10mm. Now your done under there.

5.Now lets remove the little red box that is supposed to be used as the positive terminal when charging. It has one bolt that holds it on, remove it using a 10mm.

6.The power steering pump will be in the way for removal so its easiest to just get it out of the way. You can remove it completely by disconnecting the lines or just unbolt it from the engine and lay it aside as Tom did. To do this remove the two bolts on the backside of the pump using a 15mm. Then remove the three out front using the 15mm as well.

7.And now were ready to pull the motor out. Get your cherry picker in position. I recommend the use of an engine leveler as well. Hook the chain or engine leveler up to the back of the passenger side of the head where you will find a lift tab. Thread a bolt into it. It’s an M10x1.5 thread which is a very common bolt. Then for the otherside take one of the A/C compressor bolts and thread it into the slot where the dual alternator or dual CP3 would sit. Tom’s engine leveler is a 4 chain setup, so you can hook it up his way as well if you have a similar setup. Now level the motor out and lift up until there is slight pressure on the motor.

8.Now on both sides of the motor there will be three bolts. Use a 15mm and remove all of them. Sorry I do not have a picture of this in the truck, but the picture below will show you how the mount is, both sides are the same.

9.Now the motor is free. Lift it up and move it forward then lift it up some more. And make sure that theres nothing connected to it and that it isn’t snagging on anything. A buddy or two or your kids, work good for this sometimes, then just keep playing with it until it comes out.

10.Now its out. Remember not to support it by the rear housing if putting it on an engine stand. To put it on an engine stand get 4 bolts thread M12x1.75. I like to just remove the slexplate and flywheel and then remove 4 of the rear housing bolts and then bolt through the rear housing into the block to attach the engine to the engine stand so that I can remove the oil pans on the stand versus laying under the engine. Then later on during dissasembly if the rear housing needs to come off, remove the engine from the stand, remove the rear housing and then bolt the engine back up.

I hope this helps some of you when it comes time to remove you engine whether you are happy about removing it or not. Like I said its not 100% perfect and I plan to update it with some more pictures later. Also if you see anything I missed or have a better way of doing something let me know.
Enjoy!!!

03-09-2010, 01:08 AM	#5
Durallymax Name: Durallymax Title: Diesel Enthusiast Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2007 Member`s Gallery Posts: 224	1.And now the front stack is out of the way. And now lets work on the wiring. 2.There is just a small wiring harness that needs to be disconnected and swung out of the way. Start at the passenger side and work your way over. Starting with the plug that is plugged into the A/C dryer, then the coolant overflow bottle plug (low coolant sensor), then the Alternator, then the two plugs on the A/C condenser. Also unhook the wires from the bracket that secures them to the thermostat housing. Then disonnect the two big bale connectors. You will also need to disconnect the “HOT” wire that connects to the back of the alternator using a 10mm. Also, you will need to disconnect the “Hot” wire that feeds the glow plugs using a 13mm. And finally, disconnect the firewall ground at the rear of the drivers side of the motor using a 10mm. 3.Now lets get the A/C Compressor out of the way. If you have already decharged the system you can remove the lines like Tom did and leave the A/C compressor attached to the motor. But if you did not decharge the system then you will need to remove the serpentine belt and then remove the 4 bolts with a 15mm and swing it over so it rests on the passenger side battery. 4.Now lets go underneath and remove the wires down there. Starting on the drivers side. There is one ground to remove using a 14mm. Then on the front of the motor remove the two bolts holding the plastic wire support onto the oilpan using a 10mm. Then remove the 2 ground bolts on the passenger side using a 14mm. Then remove the nut holding the starter wires and tranny cooler lines to the stud on the oil pan using a 10mm. Now your done under there. 5.Now lets remove the little red box that is supposed to be used as the positive terminal when charging. It has one bolt that holds it on, remove it using a 10mm. 6.The power steering pump will be in the way for removal so its easiest to just get it out of the way. You can remove it completely by disconnecting the lines or just unbolt it from the engine and lay it aside as Tom did. To do this remove the two bolts on the backside of the pump using a 15mm. Then remove the three out front using the 15mm as well. 7.And now were ready to pull the motor out. Get your cherry picker in position. I recommend the use of an engine leveler as well. Hook the chain or engine leveler up to the back of the passenger side of the head where you will find a lift tab. Thread a bolt into it. It’s an M10x1.5 thread which is a very common bolt. Then for the otherside take one of the A/C compressor bolts and thread it into the slot where the dual alternator or dual CP3 would sit. Tom’s engine leveler is a 4 chain setup, so you can hook it up his way as well if you have a similar setup. Now level the motor out and lift up until there is slight pressure on the motor. 8.Now on both sides of the motor there will be three bolts. Use a 15mm and remove all of them. Sorry I do not have a picture of this in the truck, but the picture below will show you how the mount is, both sides are the same. 9.Now the motor is free. Lift it up and move it forward then lift it up some more. And make sure that theres nothing connected to it and that it isn’t snagging on anything. A buddy or two or your kids, work good for this sometimes, then just keep playing with it until it comes out. 10.Now its out. Remember not to support it by the rear housing if putting it on an engine stand. To put it on an engine stand get 4 bolts thread M12x1.75. I like to just remove the slexplate and flywheel and then remove 4 of the rear housing bolts and then bolt through the rear housing into the block to attach the engine to the engine stand so that I can remove the oil pans on the stand versus laying under the engine. Then later on during dissasembly if the rear housing needs to come off, remove the engine from the stand, remove the rear housing and then bolt the engine back up. I hope this helps some of you when it comes time to remove you engine whether you are happy about removing it or not. Like I said its not 100% perfect and I plan to update it with some more pictures later. Also if you see anything I missed or have a better way of doing something let me know. Enjoy!!!