47re problems, what part was this?

SPEEDSHIFT

SPEEDSHIFT

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I pulled the pan on my 47re yesterday to change the oil and filter and found a bunch of metal inside... the truck shifts and holds power just like normal.

Sooo, what part was this? I am leaning toward a thrust washer for the planetaries.

Also, what could I potentially destroy if I keep running it?

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Yup its one of your thrust washers. So that's where your shavings are coming from, Planetaries are riding on the sunshell or something similar. Better pull it before you do more damage

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That is a shim used to tighten clearance on planetaries when thrust washers are worn or the rear aluminum planet is worn and planet endplay spec is too large.
 
That shim is designed to go beneath the thrust washer on the rear planet, not under the thrust washer on the sunshell you linked.
 
That makes more sense. The only metal I see is silver, if it ate up a thrust washer real bad I should have a ton of bronze looking metal in the pan right?

I called the original builder and he wants 4-$6k to rebuild it...
 
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Welllll, it finally **** the bed. The trans is locked up in 1st and 2nd, only 3rd, OD, and reverse work. Did I weld the clutches together?

I bought another 47re as a core in-case I tore parts up, but I it makes me wonder if I should just buy a 48RE and put these parts in it. I dont know if that would be worth the additional cost or not? I want something that can make it at least a season without needing a rebuild at 1200-1300hp.

I am trying to buy a single cab 4x4 so I can shed some weight to help things live as well.
 
For the cost of a 48RE core you could buy the parts that make the 48 marginally better and put them in your 47. A good trans builder should be able to make a 47RE last at least a season at that power level assuming you have the hard parts for it.
 
Weeeelllllll... I welded a couple direct clutches together, bigblue24 was correct, that metal was a thrust washer spacer. Looks like the original builder used a couple of them and the tabs on the thrust washer wore off and started spinning. Tore up the intermediate shaft, and a few other things.

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Found the front servo spring had broken at some point, I'm sure not too far before I started burning the direct clutches.

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jlbayes said:
Better components is what it came down to. It was from a couple different trans guys as well.
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Yea, I have found where some people have had problems with the Sonnax causing a bind-up in 2nd-3rd. Good to know, I appreciate you letting me know.

Here is a great thread BigBlue did on clucth pack upgrades if anyone comes across the same situations...

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100577&page=10

I think I am sold on upgrading to the billet direct piston and running 7 clutches, I have found a kit from TCS for $150 with 6 clutches and steels, or I can get the Revmax piston and buy my own clutches and steels. Anyone have experience with either?

Should I run all 15 springs with them? Just buy more stock springs I assume?
 
I used Sonnax brand servos and accessories in my 48re and had zero problems.

TCS I believe is the other really good brand. They are based in Canada so it takes some time to ship and the price is definitely elevated.
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
Yea, I have found where some people have had problems with the Sonnax causing a bind-up in 2nd-3rd. Good to know, I appreciate you letting me know.

Here is a great thread BigBlue did on clucth pack upgrades if anyone comes across the same situations...

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100577&page=10

I think I am sold on upgrading to the billet direct piston and running 7 clutches, I have found a kit from TCS for $150 with 6 clutches and steels, or I can get the Revmax piston and buy my own clutches and steels. Anyone have experience with either?

Should I run all 15 springs with them? Just buy more stock springs I assume?
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If you're having trouble keeping the 2nd gear band alive, I'd look into an upgraded servo. If the 2nd gear band is holding up ok, I'd keep the stock servo and upgrade the cover to help it release cleaner.

I've never had issues with a billet 3rd/direct piston other than they still need to be machined shorter if you want maximum clearance in the 3rd/direct clutch pack. I've also never had issues with a factory 3rd/direct piston stock or machined shorter for more clearance.

The return spring count is your call, I've never seen an improvement in upshift quality with added springs, it simply helps release 3rd/direct faster on downshifts from what I've seen. But not a ton of testing one way or the other so if you try it and like it, please share.
 
Big Blue24 said:
If you're having trouble keeping the 2nd gear band alive, I'd look into an upgraded servo. If the 2nd gear band is holding up ok, I'd keep the stock servo and upgrade the cover to help it release cleaner.

I've never had issues with a billet 3rd/direct piston other than they still need to be machined shorter if you want maximum clearance in the 3rd/direct clutch pack. I've also never had issues with a factory 3rd/direct piston stock or machined shorter for more clearance.

The return spring count is your call, I've never seen an improvement in upshift quality with added springs, it simply helps release 3rd/direct faster on downshifts from what I've seen. But not a ton of testing one way or the other so if you try it and like it, please share.
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The 2nd gear servo has a billet cover already, so I may just leave the servos alone. One thing I noticed it the 2nd gear servo only had one spring, I know stock they come with two springs. Since this one broke, should I put the two factory springs back in? I run a Georand full manual valve body.

With the aftermarket direct piston and a stepped reaction plate I should be able to fit 7 clutches right?
 
Yes, I have 7 clutch's in mine with that setup. About .012-.015 clearance per clutch. Think I was around .100 for total clearance in the direct this last time I assembled.
 
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