4x4dually
Moderator
Here's what I've been up to. I got a FASS 95 Platinum when I put on a new IP a month or two ago. I also tried the draw straw in the tank only to see the 1/4-1/8 tank issue which I was not happy with. So, all, here's the solution and it is relatively cheap.
Step 1 through 14. Drop your tank. :hehe: Use pry bar to get the front strap off because some jack-wad at Dodge can't design very well.
The thing that I noticed was that the tubing inside the module was .375" I.D. which would probably support a FASS 95. The problem is that the barbs that it slides onto on each end is .24" I.D. I think the same guy desiged this. So, let's get rid of the chock points, shall we?
Once you figure out how to get it all apart, here's what I did.
Cut the top screen off the bottom piece. This will increase the return fuel rate dropping out of the module when it is needed. This was a donor module from Roachie and was quite filthy. I also cleaned it good. THANKS AGAIN MAN!
Then drill out the hole the fuel goes through to be picked up. This will increase the I.D. from .440" to .520" using a 1/2" bit.
Next, make a riser out of 1/2" O.D. stainless pipe from NAPA or anywhere else. The I.D. is about .400". Use a tubing bender to create the same offset as the factory piece you cut out. Use brass compression fittings so the I.D. is not reduced any by the fittings. Leave the top extra long so you can cut it to length later.
Heat the plastic cylinder with a heat gun a little so it won't crack when you thread the fitting into it. Use a .625" drill bit then just screw the fitting in.
Shove that stuff into the module and snap the screen back on the bottom. Next, get a Vulcan draw straw 1 and trash the straw (or another brand). The one I bought had 3/8 NPT threaded into the bottom so the fitting just screwed right in same as on the bottom. This is where you'll have to figure out exactly where to cut the top off the tubing so that the module stays on the bottom of your tank once the module is installed and tightened down. It is easier if the tank is beside you so you can use trial and error. You must tighten the top compression fitting before putting the module in the tank and it must be the right overall length.
Now, the choke point of your pickup is the 1/2 hose barb on top of the module which sets around .385" I.D. when new. Take a drill bit and put it in a vise and open it up. I opened mine up to .410" I.D. which leaves around .040" wall thickness on the narrowest part of the barb. (pic shows .405 but I wasn't holding the calipers tight)
I then took some steel over braid and put it over the supply and return hoses. Then I covered that with heat shrink and shrank it all. This will keep my frame rails from rubbing holes in my hoses in the long run. Especially since the under side of my truck is always plauged with mud and rocks.
Then I made a bracket for my FASS and installed it. It runs at 17 psi idle, 15 cruisin', and 14 WOT. BUT....I still haven't takin' out my stock filter up front so I expect that to all change soon.
And exactly WTH does FASS expect anyone to do with the little bracket that comes with it? That was a waste of aluminum. :badidea: You'll also notice by the time you get to the bottom picks, I dropped the clear hole spacers that came with it too and I shortened the short side of the bracket to get the filter up further off the ground. It is as high as I can get it now without the bracket rubbing on the under side of the truck.
Over all improvement was minimum I.D in the supply path was increased from .240" I.D. to .410" I.D. which is the inside diameter of the stainless pipe. Seems to work great and tank operates like stock with no low fuel issues (loss of pressure on corners or fast starts/stops).
I haven't pushed the numbers but increasing the I.D. almost 60% should greatly reduce the flow resistance and decrease the amount of work the lp has to do to suck fuel. I'll try to remember to post back up the difference after I drop the front filter. I wanted to leave it since I had the whole system opened up. I wanted to catch all the debris before my brand new IP ate it.
Step 1 through 14. Drop your tank. :hehe: Use pry bar to get the front strap off because some jack-wad at Dodge can't design very well.
The thing that I noticed was that the tubing inside the module was .375" I.D. which would probably support a FASS 95. The problem is that the barbs that it slides onto on each end is .24" I.D. I think the same guy desiged this. So, let's get rid of the chock points, shall we?
Once you figure out how to get it all apart, here's what I did.
Cut the top screen off the bottom piece. This will increase the return fuel rate dropping out of the module when it is needed. This was a donor module from Roachie and was quite filthy. I also cleaned it good. THANKS AGAIN MAN!
Then drill out the hole the fuel goes through to be picked up. This will increase the I.D. from .440" to .520" using a 1/2" bit.
Next, make a riser out of 1/2" O.D. stainless pipe from NAPA or anywhere else. The I.D. is about .400". Use a tubing bender to create the same offset as the factory piece you cut out. Use brass compression fittings so the I.D. is not reduced any by the fittings. Leave the top extra long so you can cut it to length later.
Heat the plastic cylinder with a heat gun a little so it won't crack when you thread the fitting into it. Use a .625" drill bit then just screw the fitting in.
Shove that stuff into the module and snap the screen back on the bottom. Next, get a Vulcan draw straw 1 and trash the straw (or another brand). The one I bought had 3/8 NPT threaded into the bottom so the fitting just screwed right in same as on the bottom. This is where you'll have to figure out exactly where to cut the top off the tubing so that the module stays on the bottom of your tank once the module is installed and tightened down. It is easier if the tank is beside you so you can use trial and error. You must tighten the top compression fitting before putting the module in the tank and it must be the right overall length.
Now, the choke point of your pickup is the 1/2 hose barb on top of the module which sets around .385" I.D. when new. Take a drill bit and put it in a vise and open it up. I opened mine up to .410" I.D. which leaves around .040" wall thickness on the narrowest part of the barb. (pic shows .405 but I wasn't holding the calipers tight)
I then took some steel over braid and put it over the supply and return hoses. Then I covered that with heat shrink and shrank it all. This will keep my frame rails from rubbing holes in my hoses in the long run. Especially since the under side of my truck is always plauged with mud and rocks.
Then I made a bracket for my FASS and installed it. It runs at 17 psi idle, 15 cruisin', and 14 WOT. BUT....I still haven't takin' out my stock filter up front so I expect that to all change soon.
And exactly WTH does FASS expect anyone to do with the little bracket that comes with it? That was a waste of aluminum. :badidea: You'll also notice by the time you get to the bottom picks, I dropped the clear hole spacers that came with it too and I shortened the short side of the bracket to get the filter up further off the ground. It is as high as I can get it now without the bracket rubbing on the under side of the truck.
Over all improvement was minimum I.D in the supply path was increased from .240" I.D. to .410" I.D. which is the inside diameter of the stainless pipe. Seems to work great and tank operates like stock with no low fuel issues (loss of pressure on corners or fast starts/stops).
I haven't pushed the numbers but increasing the I.D. almost 60% should greatly reduce the flow resistance and decrease the amount of work the lp has to do to suck fuel. I'll try to remember to post back up the difference after I drop the front filter. I wanted to leave it since I had the whole system opened up. I wanted to catch all the debris before my brand new IP ate it.
