Final check and questions before it goes together

Can someone go in to detail on the failures with the rod caps that has everyone machining the caps? I didn't machine mine and I'm not going back and don't it now.


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I want to say I first heard of it probably 6 or so years ago. Some pro street guys where trashing bearings and they found this to be the cause.
 
Probably more a high rpm thing than load. Although guys do run a stock bottom end to 5k rpm and ~1000hp with decent success. And when it does fail it’s usually a broken ring or rod that ends life.
 
Not even during UCC?

Our UCC truck is a totally different engine build/caliber of truck. It has multiple probes on both the intake side and the exhaust side with full data logger, water injection, multiple water/air coolers, etc. With the solid iron Hamilton block and filled war head, diamond pistons, etc... it's not worth comparing ring gaps, PTW #'s or anything.

The Junker has a wet standard bore 5.9 engine and I've blown the head gasket enough times over the past several years that I've gotten an up close and personal look at cylinder walls, pistons scuffing, etc. It's currently at 010" PTW and 036" top ring gap and it no longer scuffs pistons or butts rings.

I tried to make it clear than it is used hard without regard for EGT with zero instrumentation, and it's a 12v, not a 6.7 with J-jets which may or may not make a difference on piston cooling etc.
 
Gonna take the top rings to .020-.022 and leave the PTW. If the pistons scuff I may go a different route next time. Will keep updating as the build moves along. Thanks everyone
 
FWIW, my 6.7 bore is middle of spec on ring gap and 0.010" PTW. I'm curious what it will do.

I was trying to decide whether to pull my rod caps and machine them, but it really seems like I won't be in the operating range where the oil evacuation will be an issue.

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FWIW, my 6.7 bore is middle of spec on ring gap and 0.010" PTW. I'm curious what it will do.

I was trying to decide whether to pull my rod caps and machine them, but it really seems like I won't be in the operating range where the oil evacuation will be an issue.

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Is it running yet?
 
Well hmmmm. Crank is already in. Rings are gapped to max, and these are already .020 over rings and pistons so I can’t buy any larger ones and file to fit. Not sure how far out the gaps will be if I go to a larger bore.

Gonna take the top rings to .020-.022 and leave the PTW. If the pistons scuff I may go a different route next time. Will keep updating as the build moves along. Thanks everyone

There's less sealing with the larger gap, but the alternative is not pretty. 0.030" top gap at 800hp will result in ~4oz oil blowby in the 1/4mi. Probably not great for a street truck. 0.020/0.040/0.020 seemed to be reasonable amount of blowby.
 
There's less sealing with the larger gap, but the alternative is not pretty. 0.030" top gap at 800hp will result in ~4oz oil blowby in the 1/4mi. Probably not great for a street truck. 0.020/0.040/0.020 seemed to be reasonable amount of blowby.

I often wonder about gapless rings, if they would help in a situation like this hard to find info though
 
That's what I'm after. High RPM high load situations?

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Yes, high rpm. I think a lot of them were running 12v or different brand billet rods with the same bearing clearances as the carrillos so they took a closer look at the rod and noticed how the stock rod cap is skinnier than the rod itself, which is a relief that the carrillos didn't have.
 
I often wonder about gapless rings, if they would help in a situation like this hard to find info though

I've got Total Seal gapless on 2nd position and they seem to do the trick from what I can tell in the ~4k miles so far. I've got a catch can but it sure ain't catching alot on the break in tune. Was seeing 75psi at times on the street but zero events as I was moving last summer. They all landed in the .035-.038 range on their own IIRC. I recall filing only top rings to ~.019". I set tops a bit tighter due to being street oriented. This is on stock bore QSB 6.7 pistons

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I'm also planning on the total seal second ring on my 6.4 build. From the few people I've heard that have used them (Broaner has been one��) I'm confident that they are worth it... At least on a street/DD build.
 
Looked back through my stuff. I ended up at .009 PTW. They went .0065 overbore from the hone and I used stock bore QSB pistons.
 
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Thanks Broaner. I was planning on anything in the .006 to .009 area... Sounds good.
 
I'm going to make this statement; I do not recommend a total seal 2nd compression ring for street use. Now, this is my opinion based on much of the information available from manufacturers. Capturing pressure between the top and second ring can cause the top ring to lift and increase the chance of premature wear.

Feel free to do as you wish, but be aware of the potential results. Same rule applies for pistons without a steel top ring land, both should be used in dedicated performance applications only.
 
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