68re transmission tuning

torque beast

torque beast

addicted to diesel
Looking for help with tuning my 68re I feel like I have it tuned safe for the added power I’m running but would like to be sure before I start towing heavy with it. I am using warp and can send it to someone to review if needed. Really just have a few simple questions for anyone that has experience tuning this trans.


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torque beast said:
Looking for help with tuning my 68re I feel like I have it tuned safe for the added power I’m running but would like to be sure before I start towing heavy with it. I am using warp and can send it to someone to review if needed. Really just have a few simple questions for anyone that has experience tuning this trans.


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Is it really possible to have a safe 68?
 
Probably not but I want to help it if I can. I have changed the pressure factors, ramp rates, line pressure and duty cycle but looking for some constructive criticism about what I’ve done. Good thing is I have not increased hp/tq much because I want to be able to hook up to anything and go without the worry of blowing it up


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torque beast said:
Probably not but I want to help it if I can. I have changed the pressure factors, ramp rates, line pressure and duty cycle but looking for some constructive criticism about what I’ve done. Good thing is I have not increased hp/tq much because I want to be able to hook up to anything and go without the worry of blowing it up


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Have you touched the valve body any?
 
Ya I heard his tunes are good but I like tweaking things myself which is why I got warp. I enjoy playing with it to see what each parameter does but am a little confused on a couple


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blackmega3500 said:
Op, your best bet at this point is a plate and gasket set aswell as upgraded accumulator from Sonnax or Suncoast.
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Ok I was debating this as well. After that bump line pressure 225? Currently running 175. What about acceleration adder and limit? Lower or leave stock?


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torque beast said:
Ok I was debating this as well. After that bump line pressure 225? Currently running 175. What about acceleration adder and limit? Lower or leave stock?


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I'm a fan of delayed shift points on the 68. The more rpms result is more pressure from the pump. This helps maintain commanded vs. actual line psi close. I like 200 since it's a safer route for stock internals.

JWhite said:
Talking about that BD kit?
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That or Suncoast which sells the plate and relief valve as a set for less than $300. They also have the 68 gaskets and speaking as me being someone who's has a pre 2010 valve body that has the p0871 code from a worn SSV bore the plate and gasket kits do wonders at sealing the chances of cross leaks. The SSV design in the 68rfe is horrible. The OD clutches and TCC basically rob each other of flow when getting worn.

These are from Suncoast and this material has a psi rating around 600 if I remember correctly. Really stout stuff.

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blackmega3500 said:
I'm a fan of delayed shift points on the 68. The more rpms result is more pressure from the pump. This helps maintain commanded vs. actual line psi close. I like 200 since it's a safer route for stock internals.







That or Suncoast which sells the plate and relief valve as a set for less than $300. They also have the 68 gaskets and speaking as me being someone who's has a pre 2010 valve body that has the p0871 code from a worn SSV bore the plate and gasket kits do wonders at sealing the chances of cross leaks. The SSV design in the 68rfe is horrible. The OD clutches and TCC basically rob each other of flow when getting worn.



These are from Suncoast and this material has a psi rating around 600 if I remember correctly. Really stout stuff.



20180803-130235.jpg
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I will call Suncoast Monday. I have raised my shift points for 3rd and 4th gears. Also increased the pressure factor and line pressure climbs faster which should help as well. Increased ramp 1 and 2. Do you recommend changing the acceleration adder or acceleration limit values?


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torque beast said:
I will call Suncoast Monday. I have raised my shift points for 3rd and 4th gears. Also increased the pressure factor and line pressure climbs faster which should help as well. Increased ramp 1 and 2. Do you recommend changing the acceleration adder or acceleration limit values?


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I'm not really into tuning things myself so I can't say.

I will say every major builder with a 68 that holds power uses h&s overdrive software tuning parameters.
 
blackmega3500 said:
I'm not really into tuning things myself so I can't say.



I will say every major builder with a 68 that holds power uses h&s overdrive software tuning parameters.
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I have MCC but don’t have a file showing the overdrive parameters. All I have is the stock tune


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blackmega3500 said:
I will say every major builder with a 68 that holds power uses h&s overdrive software tuning parameters.
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This is definitely true and I wish someone smarter than me would put some more time into it. Whenever my ambient is below 32deg, I get a hiccup where it feels like the trans goes into neutral for just a split second. This is present on my 2010 using H&S OD, on my friends 2011 with a Suncoast Omega (I think using their tuning?), and on another friends 2016 with PPEI Kory Willis tuning. All three of them have the issue go away when switching to stock trans tuning. I'm pretty sure the base OD software had this issue and everyone else uses a carbon copy of it. :doh:


That's the end of my rant! :Cheer:
 
Whats everyone's thoughts as to early lock up tuning. I feel that its fine on light throttle driving but doesnt work well heavy throttle and is harder on the trans.

I've had few different ones at work and have had a couple different set ups. The best shifting and most reliable was when the the converter would wait until 4th to lock. This was fine with the 3:73 gears being you were locked up by 35-40. 3:42 gearing is a bit annoying due to thd fact yo uh are at 45 before lock up. Granted that is regular driving with out using manual mode, which even from the factory it will lock up earlier.

I shouldn't really shouldn't be voicing any thoughts as to 68's, because I'm sitting here with one that the overdrives are toast in. Getting a Randy's stage one. They want the factory lock up strategy and 200psi of line pressure over 30% throttle to give warranty with it.
 
I don’t care for mine to lock up too early but I do have mine lock up in 3rd and like it this way. Good mileage cruising and better overall drivability, less heat


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