To deckplate or not to deckplate?

Does the tractor world find it acceptable to have slightly crap parts that need finishing to use them or is it just the pickup world? There are some great manufacturers out there who sell perfect parts but far too often we have to do a lot of massaging to make others parts fit correctly and everybody we talk to act like it is just part of the game.


In general no, though I prefer to start with raw materials as often as possible and make parts the way I want them.
 
The (recently released) wet comp block is rough cast (unfinished bores) around 3.840" bore. They have an 0.800" thicker deck built-into the block without changing the deck height meaning the wide part of the water jackets starts about 1.6" down from the deck surface, not 0.700" to 0.800" down from the deck surface like a factory 6.7 block. They come setup with 14mm mains, 14mm head stud holes, all (7) cam bushings, deleted steam port holes, 300mpa material (20% stronger than OEM), 0.080" thicker cylinder walls, 0.080" thicker block outer walls, and then to take it one step further..... Hamilton analyzed all the fracture/failure points on PDD's solid block explosion and they added material in the mid-section of the block at the cam tunnel line which is the weakest point on any cast block after the cylinder walls are beefed up. The water jacket floors were raised up to add rigidity and midsection strength, the oiling passages have revised angles/hole sizes to reduce stress points in the mid section of the block, the structural webs that run down the inside of the skirts and tie into the girdle are enlarged as well. This is the Fort Knox of wet blocks and designed for water cooled 2500 HP applications. These are selling fast and retail for $5900.

Finally there is the most budget friendly Upgraded 6.7 wet block. This is a factory replica 6.7 block with the following upgrades: 300mpa material (20% stronger than stock), 14mm mains and 14mm head stud holes, 7 cam bushings, and they come with a finished 4.015" bore size (5.9 standard bore). What this means is they are like a sleeved down 6.7 cummins block without the machine cost/sleeve cost so you can run a 5.9 bore piston, 4.125" custom piston which is common for the 6.4L "budget builds/poor man's deckplate replacement" etc, or bore it out to a standard 6.7L. This block is designed for 1800 HP with the small bore size and might even do 2000HP or better on a high RPM, low torque setup with the smaller 4.015" bore size. It still has the proper deck height for the 6.7 crank so you still end up with 6.1L engine setup even with the small bore size. These blocks retail for $2900.

My shameless plug....Power Driven Diesel is a master distributor for Hamilton Cams so if you don't buy direct from Hamilton, give us a call, we have a few of these blocks in-stock!

When looking into their new Wet comp block how are you guys getting around or handling the fact the coolant ports don't go all the way through to the cylinder head? Seems like this would kill any potential of using this block as a street block at all.

Would it be better to go with the Upgraded 6.7/5.9 block and sleeve it to a 6.7 to avoid this cylinder wall issues?
 
When looking into their new Wet comp block how are you guys getting around or handling the fact the coolant ports don't go all the way through to the cylinder head? Seems like this would kill any potential of using this block as a street block at all.



Would it be better to go with the Upgraded 6.7/5.9 block and sleeve it to a 6.7 to avoid this cylinder wall issues?
Riley I'm bringing this back because I'd like to hear some opinions to this question.

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I believe the deck plate combo is stronger then aftermarket blocks. We have seen failures in aftermarket blocks where deck plate stuff lives. I highly suggest d&j enforcer engines. It’s that or billet water block in my opinion.


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When looking into their new Wet comp block how are you guys getting around or handling the fact the coolant ports don't go all the way through to the cylinder head?



What do you mean the coolant ports don't go all the way through to the cylinder head? I was just looking at one up close last night and they were very close to oem besides the thickness of the deck....
 
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