my 379 build

C

claytoncox

learnin'
ive tried to make a thread before and failed. hopefully these photos upload this time. my project is a 1987 pete 379. 3406b and a 15over tranny.this will by no means be a show truck but i would like to at least look somewhat good trying to make a living. Here is the day i went to look at it and then when i brought it home.

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can anybody tell me what im doing wrong on posting pics? im copying the img url from my photobucket account and pasteing it to the message. also have tried clicking on the littlw yellow square with the mountain up top and pasteing in there. any ideas?... ive searched i swear
 
did figure out how to get them on like this so i will try this again until i can figure out how to add them full size.
 

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Copy the image code from photobucket and paste in the reply box, then delete everything not included between the two
 
wiring was a nightmare. i actually still have some wiring issues to get figured out. i pulled the sleeper off, shaved the cab lights,horns, and spot lights. i added 9 3/4" cab lights
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pulled the hood off since the fenders were destroyed and it looked as if the hood had hit about 50 head of deer.
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got the sleeper set on, squared up and bolted down
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ripped the flooring up and cleaned everything out. i added a boom mat type of material for heat and sound transfer. then used boom mats spray as well. the last thing i did was add the original insualation back. also did this to the roof

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after the wood floor was installed i added a clear poly ureathane (spelling?) coating to it

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The next project i started on was the frame stretch. getting everything straight and level on a dirt floor is harder than it sounds :bang wanted to cut in a place where there was already a brace where i could add one and have a brace at each cut.

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as i did not trust my welding skills with my safety and everyone around me i had a certified welder friend come over and stitch things back together. everything was welded uphill, a second frame was added to the inside of the frame, bolted in then as well welded in. It was stretched a little over 3ft making the wheel base 315"

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the stock visor had to go so i bought a 12ga. customs paintable 14/9 reverse bowtie. after recieving this i realized why the price difference between these and others. this one has 4 rivets on each side that hold it in place while others i have seen still only use the stock 2 holes. fitement was awesome as well.

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got online and found a set of paintable "side chops" that matched the visor. these were a little harder to find as most people put the 4" or 6" on.

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when we streched my fathers it was cut at an angle. i have also seen the stair step cut. Since mine is a straight cut i did as jfaulkner said and split each weld with a crossmember.
Ram12cummins is is actually double framed at the stretched portion.
 
claytoncox said:
when we streched my fathers it was cut at an angle. i have also seen the stair step cut. Since mine is a straight cut i did as jfaulkner said and split each weld with a crossmember.

Ram12cummins is is actually double framed at the stretched portion.
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I've heard of them done every different way and most just cut them straight, weld down and be done.
 
went to the local flea market and found a set of nathan p3 for sale for $100 because the guy couldnt get them to work.

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whoever tried to rebuild them put the manifolds on upside down pinching the air supply line off. It would have just sprayed air into the atmosphere anyway. fixed the pinched lines and cleand the diaphrams and they were good to go.

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the proper way

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claytoncox said:
went to the local flea market and found a set of nathan p3 for sale for $100 because the guy couldnt get them to work.



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whoever tried to rebuild them put the manifolds on upside down pinching the air supply line off. It would have just sprayed air into the atmosphere anyway. fixed the pinched lines and cleand the diaphrams and they were good to go.



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the proper way



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I had a set of P3's. Have a lower tone vs the K5's.
 
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