your set up plus dyno numbers 12 valve only.

I reread my post. It was poorly worded and frankly not all that useful. I guess I was just surprised that a 180 pump at ~24* with 5x14 was maxed at 500hp worth of fuel. Im curious if the AFC live was tuned for max power or some kind of EGT/smoke compromise.

BTW I'm seriously looking at getting this turbo from you guys. Hence why I ask so many questions. It does look like it hits a sweet spot on these trucks. Anything more and I'll need billet input/output shafts on the trans but it cheap enough that it's not far off a set of budget built compounds. Just alot easier to set up.

We played around with the fueling via AFC LIVE and there was very little difference other than more smoke and higher EGT going from 85% of max rack travel to 100% rack travel. This pump has never been benched so we don't know what it flows. Also, keep in mind, the internet is full of inflated "corrected" dyno numbers, so much so that expectations are set a little too high for most turbo/fueling setups. This truck at a "national dyno event" would probably make between 550HP and 600HP. At our shop 5700', uncorrected, on our Mustang Dyno, it did between 490 HP and 508 HP on multiple runs.

The timing seems high for a street truck? I'm looking at going up in power on my dd. I'm send my pump to Seth to go over an do some minor tuning. What loss would be had running a lower 17 timing? Is the 24 gonna harm the motor? Do you have a video of what the power is around 1800? Also when the turbo starts to come on compared to stock? I'm contemplating going budget twins but this does look appealing. does the .70 cause high drive pressures?

This truck came into our shop with the timing set to 24*, it's an Arizona truck that never deals with cold weather starts. It has a fresh shortblock with wide 155* bowl pistons and is equipped with 155* spray pattern injectors. The pattern hits in the bowl as designed, and the truck runs extremely well. Based on the fact that there are factory Marine applications with this much timing with a similar bowl and injector setup, no 24* is not too much for this truck and we don't want the higher EGT and power loss that would come from dropping the timing to 17* on this setup. We don't have a video of power at 1800 RPM, but we can load the dyno so hard, it will make full boost and 900 ft lbs at 1800 if we wanted, it would just chug and smoke heavy at 1400 rpm trying to spool against the massive load at low RPM so the dyno can be manipulated somewhat to make turbos come on earlier in the powerband than they might on the street. This turbo is definitely slower spooling than stock, but the lag to power ratio is worth it on this charger. Compared to stock, I'd say this turbo comes on about 200 to 300 rpm later. Drive pressure is largely dependent on RPM range, at normal street truck RPM ranges 3000 rpm and less, drive pressure is excellent with the .70 ar housing. If the wastegate is tuned to stay close, drive pressure rises quickly in the 3000+ RPM range. With the wastegate open, drive pressure stays in the 10 to 20 psi over boost range till 3500 rpm, that's as high as we tested on this truck/motor/cam setup, your results may vary. However, compared to stock, this turbo runs much much better in the 2500 RPM on up range. Stock HX35 turbos really struggle in the 2500+ range.

To be fair, almost any compound turbo setup is going to have a wider useful power range than a single turbo so it's not really fair to compare.... :stab:
 
Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to compare twins to a single as to which is better. More or Less does a single like this come close enough to what I want to avoid the time building the twins and money spent on them. Even being budget twins an using the stock charger the piping and second charger costs would prob be more than this single turbo setup. So with the timing and using the wide bowl Pistons there isn't a worry running that much advance. My motor is all stock never been opened. So I guess I might run the risk of spraying the walls? I'm trying to understand why I see most dd stay 16-17 degrees advance an no higher.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to compare twins to a single as to which is better. More or Less does a single like this come close enough to what I want to avoid the time building the twins and money spent on them. Even being budget twins an using the stock charger the piping and second charger costs would prob be more than this single turbo setup. So with the timing and using the wide bowl Pistons there isn't a worry running that much advance. My motor is all stock never been opened. So I guess I might run the risk of spraying the walls? I'm trying to understand why I see most dd stay 16-17 degrees advance an no higher.

Bowl size doesn't change the cylinder wall width so it won't have an effect on when/where fuel can directly spray on the cylinder walls.

With stock bowls on a 12 valve and 145* pattern injectors, you usually can get away with 24* timing and still be inside the bowl when using thin 020" copper sealing washers. There is a difference between being in the bowl on the upper lip and in the bowl down where the fuel was designed to be sprayed. This truck got excellent fuel mileage before the bottom end rebuild and wider pistons, when it was running stock pistons, 5x014" VCO Budget Builder Injectors, thin washers, and 24* timing.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to compare twins to a single as to which is better. More or Less does a single like this come close enough to what I want to avoid the time building the twins and money spent on them. Even being budget twins an using the stock charger the piping and second charger costs would prob be more than this single turbo setup. So with the timing and using the wide bowl Pistons there isn't a worry running that much advance. My motor is all stock never been opened. So I guess I might run the risk of spraying the walls? I'm trying to understand why I see most dd stay 16-17 degrees advance an no higher.

I've ran my 180 pump at a hair over 19 for 2 Alaska winters. Mpgs are in the low 20s on the highway - could be better if I was babying it. You can tell its trying a little harder when it's 5* outside and when it's constantly cold and dipping into the negatives I just plug it in with a timer set for 2-3 hours before I plan on starting it. Stock head gasket and I haven't tightened the head bolts down more. I like 19* more than I did when it was at 16*. 24* will be next
 
Bowl size doesn't change the cylinder wall width so it won't have an effect on when/where fuel can directly spray on the cylinder walls.



With stock bowls on a 12 valve and 145* pattern injectors, you usually can get away with 24* timing and still be inside the bowl when using thin 020" copper sealing washers. There is a difference between being in the bowl on the upper lip and in the bowl down where the fuel was designed to be sprayed. This truck got excellent fuel mileage before the bottom end rebuild and wider pistons, when it was running stock pistons, 5x014" VCO Budget Builder Injectors, thin washers, and 24* timing.


What charger did it run with that setup?

I've ran my 180 pump at a hair over 19 for 2 Alaska winters. Mpgs are in the low 20s on the highway - could be better if I was babying it. You can tell its trying a little harder when it's 5* outside and when it's constantly cold and dipping into the negatives I just plug it in with a timer set for 2-3 hours before I plan on starting it. Stock head gasket and I haven't tightened the head bolts down more. I like 19* more than I did when it was at 16*. 24* will be next


Thanks for the input. My spare pump is down at seths and I haven't decided what I want done to it yet.
 
What charger did it run with that setup?




Thanks for the input. My spare pump is down at seths and I haven't decided what I want done to it yet.

On the good fuel economy setup, the customer was running a Tater-Built hotrod HX35, I think it had the big 64mm HX40 turbine wheel and a 62 or 63mm compressor wheel.
 
175 pump 4ks 035 delivery valves benched by seth 410cc
23* timing
S363
Hamilton 188/220 60# valve springs
5x14s
And a south bend #3600
Made 523/905
 
What was the correction factor? What dyno? How much boost?


Un corrected it was a mobile dyno I'm mot sure who's blue dyno pulled by a van I've only seen it 100 times. And I'm not sure of the boost it never cleared up and I'm 90% sure it has a boost leak at the intake. That power was made at 3500 rpm it's way out of air. S467 and 5x16s are going on this week.
 
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I put the truck together to be fun on the street and that it is. The s467 is going to be a dog even with the .90 but i just want to see what the truck will do. I should also say the truck has another 30cc of fuel left.
 
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superflow
setup-
HX52/HT4C
ported joker fab head/intake runner
stock bottom end/cam
180 pump 5ks full cuts no plate
sdx 5x18 26* timing
air to water intercooler
 

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Pumps never been benched and for lift pump running a new stock mechanical fed by a Holley black knock off lol


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What are the specs on your setup?

5x12 injectors, 4k springs, ground my own fuel plate, BD intercooler, ATS A3K Turbo and Pulse Flow Manifold, ATS Intake and Mishimoto intercooler boots. Turbo is making 45psi boost, egt's are hot lol. The 515hp run was with full boost going to the AFC.
 
Thought I'd post my results from awhile back on an engine dyno I made 1157hp 1979 ft lb tq

Farrell 13mm pump
Dual feed harts 5x25's
Colt 181/218 cam
S369sxe 73 turbine 1.0
S488 96 turbine 1.32
Aeromotive eliminator
Stock bottom end
Steed speed



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