Front axle u-joint replacement

D

Dbordenb

New member
Last night on an evening drive the wife heard a strange clicking coming from the passenger side front wheel area. Almost like a rock stuck in the tire because it would change frequency with the speed of the tire. After getting home and investigating I found the front axle u-joint has a good amount of play in it.
So my question would be, do I replace it with an OEM joint or a NAPA grease-able joint? Has anyone used the NAPA u-joints?
And when I am changing it do I need to put it in 4 wheel drive before I pull out the axle shaft? One YouTube video talked about with the vacuum lock hubs you need to place it in 4 wheel and I wasn’t sure if that applied to the 2014 2500 pickups.
 
I just did this job on my 14.

Yes, put it in 4wd or you will have to pull the actuator to reinstall the right axle shaft.

I used the Spicer sealed u joint, available from O'Reilly's. 5-3212X is the part number.
 
Last edited:
Thank you. I’ll use those u-joints then. How did everything come apart for you? I’ve read the worst part of this job is taking everything apart.
 
Honestly, I did wheel bearings not long ago, so removing the axle shafts wasn't bad.

I have a 50 ton shop press, pressing out the old u joints took a lot of force. I wouldn't try removing the axle u joints with a Tiger tool or SnapOn BJP1 style press as it won't be able to do it.
 
I’ve got a 20 ton shop press. Think that will be enough? And I’m hoping the power steering trick will get the wheel bearings off.
 
Dbordenb said:
I’ve got a 20 ton shop press. Think that will be enough? And I’m hoping the power steering trick will get the wheel bearings off.
Click to expand...

Only one way to find out... As with any shop press, I recommend standing the the side to miss any shrapnel...

That trick has always worked well for me also.
 
I’m still doing research on removing the old u joint and I’m reading using a press may be a bad idea because it could bend the ears on the yoke. Has anyone replaced their front axle u joints with the vice and hammer method?
 
Dbordenb said:
I’m still doing research on removing the old u joint and I’m reading using a press may be a bad idea because it could bend the ears on the yoke. Has anyone replaced their front axle u joints with the vice and hammer method?
Click to expand...

I’d be more inclined to use a press if available, than trying to beat it out with a hammer.
Also, I second the vote for Spicer u-joints. I’ve never used an SKF/Napa I joint that fit correctly and didn’t vibrate. Every time I’ve used one, I’ve ended up changing it shortly for a Spicer.
 
bracker8040 said:
I’d be more inclined to use a press if available, than trying to beat it out with a hammer.
Also, I second the vote for Spicer u-joints. I’ve never used an SKF/Napa I joint that fit correctly and didn’t vibrate. Every time I’ve used one, I’ve ended up changing it shortly for a Spicer.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. I picked up the spicer u-joint mentioned above. I will just try to use the yoke ears for the support point when I’m using the press to get the old joint out. I don’t want to bend the ears together and make a bigger problem.
 
Dbordenb said:
Has anyone replaced their front axle u joints with the vice and hammer method?
Click to expand...



I’ve always used the vice and hammer, or setup some metal plates and bessy clamps on the metal table. Then hammer away. Yes I’ve snapped a few yoke ears but felt the same would have happened in a press due to rust on the joint and cup.

Sometimes a sharp, blunt strike with the hammer breaks the cup loose in the ear easier than a constantly increasing force that a press would offer. Sometimes not. It’s all part of wrenching.

To each their own.
 
Red Sleeper said:
I’ve always used the vice and hammer, or setup some metal plates and bessy clamps on the metal table. Then hammer away. Yes I’ve snapped a few yoke ears but felt the same would have happened in a press due to rust on the joint and cup.

Sometimes a sharp, blunt strike with the hammer breaks the cup loose in the ear easier than a constantly increasing force that a press would offer. Sometimes not. It’s all part of wrenching.

To each their own.
Click to expand...

You’ve got a good point there, especially what you said about the shock from hitting it with a hammer versus just pushing on it.

On some really ugly ujoints I’ve cut the cross out, then knocked each cup out (with a hammer) individually. By cutting the cross out you only have to move one cup at a time (obviously).
 
I was able to press them out pretty easily. I tapped each cap with a hammer before trying to press them to try and give each one a little shock. The job must have been done before because everything came apart easily.

I am worried that I messed up when putting the new u-joint in. I made sure everything was straight and that all the needle bearings didn’t fall but after getting it all pressed in and the clips put into place it was very stiff. I figured it should move a little more freely so maybe I did something wrong.
 
Dbordenb said:
I was able to press them out pretty easily. I tapped each cap with a hammer before trying to press them to try and give each one a little shock. The job must have been done before because everything came apart easily.

I am worried that I messed up when putting the new u-joint in. I made sure everything was straight and that all the needle bearings didn’t fall but after getting it all pressed in and the clips put into place it was very stiff. I figured it should move a little more freely so maybe I did something wrong.
Click to expand...

No, a good ujoint should be stiff to move by hand. If it just flops around easily, it will vibrate. Ask me how I know......SKF/Napa every time.
 
If its extremely tight (have to pry it to get it to move) put all the clips in and tap the ears just a bit it will loosen it up some.
 
regcanfan said:
If its extremely tight (have to pry it to get it to move) put all the clips in and tap the ears just a bit it will loosen it up some.
Click to expand...
A good wack on the ear always straightens chit out! You won't believe it after you hit that yoke. It's almost always guaranteed to get them seated and working smoothly

Sent from my SM-J260A using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top