BD 48re Tap Shifter

From the installation guide, seems like this would be a really cool addition, also full manual while still being able to revert back to automatic shifting. Seems like this would make towing a breeze!

Automatic Mode (Mode 1)
Mode 1 allows the driver to select the maximum gear to shift up to. This means whatever gear you select on the display will be the highest gear the transmission will reach. This mode also provides convenient downshifting capabilities while retaining automatic shifting. The Tow/Haul or OD OFF button still functions like stock with the shifter turned on. This mode works just like the late model 68RFE trucks shifter.
This is the default mode when it leaves the factory.

Automatic Mode with TorqLoc (Mode 2)
Mode 2 works the same as mode 1, except now the Tow/Haul button is re-purposed into a lockup button when the shifter is turned on. This means the stock torque converter lockup strategy is maintained, but at the tap of a button you can achieve lockup (the padlock will illuminate in the display). The TapShifter takes care of the minimum speed engagement and disengage points for you based on the gear you’ve selected so there is no need to worry about stalling the truck.

Automatic Mode with TorqLoc/TorqUnLoc (Mode 3)
Mode 3 is similar to mode 2 except it keeps the TCM from being able to lock up the torque converter and only engages when the driver commands it.
CAUTION Do not leave the torque converter disengaged for long periods when towing or driving on the highway or it will elevate transmission temperatures.

Full Manual Mode (Mode 7)
Mode 7 mimics the function of a manual valve body. You can drive in any gear at any time and get full control of the torque converter lockup using the Tow/Haul button which will illuminate the padlock symbol. This mode improves on manual valve bodies as it has downshift over-rev protection and torque converter anti-stall protection, plus as soon as you turn off the TapShifter, the truck regains the convenience of automatic shifting.



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Was rhumor floating around for awhile that the Firepunk Anteater was gonna get paddle shifter upgrade... Since it doesn't look like that's gonna happen, this might just be the next best thing.
 
probably not relevant but these were all the rage in the ford camp a couple years ago. Idea was to be able to make large turbo setups driveable on the street. Almost every single one i knew of that got installed, has since been ripped out. Caused all sorts of random electrical quirks etc. Also made the regular transmission tuning act funky.
 
sootie said:
probably not relevant but these were all the rage in the ford camp a couple years ago. Idea was to be able to make large turbo setups driveable on the street. Almost every single one i knew of that got installed, has since been ripped out. Caused all sorts of random electrical quirks etc. Also made the regular transmission tuning act funky.
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I curious to see how this goes. BD typically plays it pretty safe with their designs. I'd be surprised if these were junk.
 
Looks like a cool kit, can't believe they didn't redo the valve body harness to have different plug and eliminate routing the wire through the pan
 
zstroken said:
Looks like a cool kit, can't believe they didn't redo the valve body harness to have different plug and eliminate routing the wire through the pan
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Likely to retain the factory automatic shifting when the tap shifter is turned off.

I’m impressed to say the least, looks like some serious time went into this. It kind of reminds me of my ATS select shift with external piping routed to different areas of the VB. I wonder if the second gov solenoid simply routes fluid to the 1-2 and 2-3 valve to essentially override normal VB function.


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I am guessing they repurpose the existing gov solenoid, for either either the 1-2 or 2-3 and then add the new solenoid to take care of the remaining 1-2 or 2-3.

Also you could still retain the factory automatic shifting(as I am guessing the controller does away with the PWM on the gov solenoid) by just finding a new connector(probably 10 pin instead of the 8) to fit in the existing valve body connector hole, then have the existing truck VB connector and the connector for the new solenoid tie into the new 10 pin.


It looks like a really cool product, just needs some further refinement to be an awesome product.
 
zstroken said:
I am guessing they repurpose the existing gov solenoid, for either either the 1-2 or 2-3 and then add the new solenoid to take care of the remaining 1-2 or 2-3.

Also you could still retain the factory automatic shifting(as I am guessing the controller does away with the PWM on the gov solenoid) by just finding a new connector(probably 10 pin instead of the 8) to fit in the existing valve body connector hole, then have the existing truck VB connector and the connector for the new solenoid tie into the new 10 pin.


It looks like a really cool product, just needs some further refinement to be an awesome product.
Click to expand...

The reason for keeping the 8 pin stock connector is that you can run our valve body with the stock wiring too. This way this valve body is fully stock compatible and you could theoretically order a valve body or a trans with this valve body in it and hook up the electronics later. This also makes it really simple to troubleshoot transmission problems too since you can quickly run it on the factory computer alone.

The R&D guys had ways to make this work with only the original 8 wires alone but it wouldn’t have been backwards compatible with the stock stuff and you’d always need our harness plugged inline.
 
Hector-BD said:
The reason for keeping the 8 pin stock connector is that you can run our valve body with the stock wiring too. This way this valve body is fully stock compatible and you could theoretically order a valve body or a trans with this valve body in it and hook up the electronics later. This also makes it really simple to troubleshoot transmission problems too since you can quickly run it on the factory computer alone.



The R&D guys had ways to make this work with only the original 8 wires alone but it wouldn’t have been backwards compatible with the stock stuff and you’d always need our harness plugged inline.
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Any insight into how the two gov solenoids work to achieve forced upshifts and downshifts? Genuinely curious.


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wonder if you can ask for higher pressures, seems like a lot of our custom trans work has a lot of work inside the valve body, would suck to loose it all for a cool factor/.
 
zstroken said:
I am guessing they repurpose the existing gov solenoid, for either either the 1-2 or 2-3 and then add the new solenoid to take care of the remaining 1-2 or 2-3.

Also you could still retain the factory automatic shifting(as I am guessing the controller does away with the PWM on the gov solenoid) by just finding a new connector(probably 10 pin instead of the 8) to fit in the existing valve body connector hole, then have the existing truck VB connector and the connector for the new solenoid tie into the new 10 pin.


It looks like a really cool product, just needs some further refinement to be an awesome product.
Click to expand...

While we don’t want to give away too much about how it works just yet, ztroken is correct about the governor solenoids. There are also a few other modifications needed to make sure the shifts happen when you want.

This valve body is built in the same way as our other performance valve bodies, you would expect around 90-170psi vs the stock around 60-110psi, this is suitable for performance transmissions or even just mild builds.

This will work with almost anyone’s transmission barring any abnormal modifications. Since we supply the complete valve body we eliminate possible compatibility challenges.
 
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