WUnderwood
Moderator
^^^ helluva post!
93 d250 - What it take to run 14's through the 1/4?
- Thread starter Cummins Driver
- Start date
79powerwagon
New member
Nice post!
I used a $25 china piston pump that has been working awesome for 2-3 yrs. One of the biggest improvements was that and 3/8 lines.
The 351 does work well on a budget, and can take a beating. I have a bit too much fuel for it -6x13s, but it lights quick and makes it fun to drive. Corneliusrox can attest to that :rockwoot:
Downside is it drops mpg a little, sounds like a $300 turbine upgrade can take care of that.
I used a $25 china piston pump that has been working awesome for 2-3 yrs. One of the biggest improvements was that and 3/8 lines.
The 351 does work well on a budget, and can take a beating. I have a bit too much fuel for it -6x13s, but it lights quick and makes it fun to drive. Corneliusrox can attest to that :rockwoot:
Downside is it drops mpg a little, sounds like a $300 turbine upgrade can take care of that.
ofelas
New member
Nice post Red Sleeper.
I agree with your parts suggestions on a reasonably stout VE.
As far as the fuel pin - the Denny profile is far too smoky for a somewhat tweaked street driven VE.
I'd suggest a pin from the THD or BD or this one here - both linear profiles - New VE Fuel Pin for 89-93 Dodge VE Inj Pumps
79powerwagon above made a couple nice looking pins as well, may want to PM him.
If you tweak the VE enough and/or have substantially larger injectors, stick with your stock pin & play with the infinitely adjustable ramp profiles it has.
Valve spring wise - the same listed $150 + #60 marine springs can be had for $100 here -
C14010 or 3916691 1989-98 Cummins HD Valve Springs
That site has the rest of the parts listed like gov spring, lift pump kit, etc, for a bit cheaper, but shop around.
As far as the lift pump - you're better off having a high volume piston setup rather than the stock diaphragm pump. Better cooling, more consistent timing advance, no deezul in the sump if something goes wrong, etc etc. If you're planning to run over 20psi consistently, stake or retainer ring + set screw your VE front seal.
If you're on a tight budget, retorque your factory head bolts using a cold 3 step process, and clean up the area under the valve seats if you are so inclined to pull the head.
Get a better converter with a somewhat tighter, more efficient fluid coupling, up your line pressure & tweak the governor pressure & TV cable to get near your desired shift RPM. If you up your line pressure, get the billet servo, accumulator, band strut & band anchor package.
Adjust your bands to a 1/4" gap or by rotating the driveshaft till barely unbinding, & ignore the factory suggested torque settings.
I agree with your parts suggestions on a reasonably stout VE.
As far as the fuel pin - the Denny profile is far too smoky for a somewhat tweaked street driven VE.
I'd suggest a pin from the THD or BD or this one here - both linear profiles - New VE Fuel Pin for 89-93 Dodge VE Inj Pumps
79powerwagon above made a couple nice looking pins as well, may want to PM him.
If you tweak the VE enough and/or have substantially larger injectors, stick with your stock pin & play with the infinitely adjustable ramp profiles it has.
Valve spring wise - the same listed $150 + #60 marine springs can be had for $100 here -
C14010 or 3916691 1989-98 Cummins HD Valve Springs
That site has the rest of the parts listed like gov spring, lift pump kit, etc, for a bit cheaper, but shop around.
As far as the lift pump - you're better off having a high volume piston setup rather than the stock diaphragm pump. Better cooling, more consistent timing advance, no deezul in the sump if something goes wrong, etc etc. If you're planning to run over 20psi consistently, stake or retainer ring + set screw your VE front seal.
If you're on a tight budget, retorque your factory head bolts using a cold 3 step process, and clean up the area under the valve seats if you are so inclined to pull the head.
Get a better converter with a somewhat tighter, more efficient fluid coupling, up your line pressure & tweak the governor pressure & TV cable to get near your desired shift RPM. If you up your line pressure, get the billet servo, accumulator, band strut & band anchor package.
Adjust your bands to a 1/4" gap or by rotating the driveshaft till barely unbinding, & ignore the factory suggested torque settings.
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Red Sleeper
Active member
Thanks.
Ofelas, I have not tried other fuel pins besides the DennyT #2. Which is smokey during normal street driving. I have more less chalked up the smoke to it just being a mechanical pump that’s modified. Always felt that I needed more low end air flow to help clean up the exhaust haze during moderate to heavy acceleration. My boost gauge barely reaches 22lbs during a hard 4th year pull with the stock HC1. I’ll be installing the HE351 from my 05 CR on to my 12v truck once I complete the turbo swap on the CR first.
I also have a 4” turbo back exhaust for the 12v I bought on clearance. Hope to install it this weekend and see how much EGT’s drop. All stock exhaust currently.
Thanks for sharing the DieselTuff sight. That $700 p-pump swap kit sure looks inviting.
Ofelas, I have not tried other fuel pins besides the DennyT #2. Which is smokey during normal street driving. I have more less chalked up the smoke to it just being a mechanical pump that’s modified. Always felt that I needed more low end air flow to help clean up the exhaust haze during moderate to heavy acceleration. My boost gauge barely reaches 22lbs during a hard 4th year pull with the stock HC1. I’ll be installing the HE351 from my 05 CR on to my 12v truck once I complete the turbo swap on the CR first.
I also have a 4” turbo back exhaust for the 12v I bought on clearance. Hope to install it this weekend and see how much EGT’s drop. All stock exhaust currently.
Thanks for sharing the DieselTuff sight. That $700 p-pump swap kit sure looks inviting.
JQmile
Comp Diesel Sponsor
P-pump?? :hehe:
79powerwagon
New member
Quick spooling turbo, fuel pin with taper that starts fairly high, non IC afc spring, machine top cover to allow pin to come up higher
79powerwagon
New member
Cummins Driver
THE Cummins Driver
Lots of great info for sure.
Think im gonna start off making an order at the hungry diesel. Probably go with a 3200 governor spring, the adapter harness so that my isspro tach will work, and a pump reseal kit to have on hand. Not totally decided if I want to order a fuel pin yet or not. Seems like the power screw makes about the biggest difference from what I've read but im sure the fuel pin plays into that.
I guess what i dont totally understand is that while I was at the drag strip I turned the fuel pin to the deep side and backed the AFC all the way off. It still wont even give even a little puff of smoke stomping it from idle and it didnt pick up any trap speed or ET. I figured for sure id get 20hp or so just turning the pin. It seems like it may be a touch more responsive but thats about it. Lift pump is pretty new looking but I havent checked pressure. I also still need to change the fuel filter and delete the fuel heater.
I want to get my tach installed before making any changes to the pump so that I can see what kind of RPM it pulls under hard throttle before and after. Really would like to have a boost/pyro/trans temp gauge in it before starting as well because its very possible this thing will tow something every so often, plus its nice to know how it was stock just for reference.
It really needs a limited slip in the rear in a bad way. It just has no traction at all how it is. I hope no one expects a very elaborate build out of this, but I do want to play with it a little and see how it reacts to some changes. I think it could run a lot better with not a whole lot invested. Im hoping not to ruin the fuel mileage because it gets better mileage than anything I own. I got 19.25mpg on my drag strip tank. I have a feeling it would do 22-23mpg easy enough. Guess im getting old :hehe:
Think im gonna start off making an order at the hungry diesel. Probably go with a 3200 governor spring, the adapter harness so that my isspro tach will work, and a pump reseal kit to have on hand. Not totally decided if I want to order a fuel pin yet or not. Seems like the power screw makes about the biggest difference from what I've read but im sure the fuel pin plays into that.
I guess what i dont totally understand is that while I was at the drag strip I turned the fuel pin to the deep side and backed the AFC all the way off. It still wont even give even a little puff of smoke stomping it from idle and it didnt pick up any trap speed or ET. I figured for sure id get 20hp or so just turning the pin. It seems like it may be a touch more responsive but thats about it. Lift pump is pretty new looking but I havent checked pressure. I also still need to change the fuel filter and delete the fuel heater.
I want to get my tach installed before making any changes to the pump so that I can see what kind of RPM it pulls under hard throttle before and after. Really would like to have a boost/pyro/trans temp gauge in it before starting as well because its very possible this thing will tow something every so often, plus its nice to know how it was stock just for reference.
It really needs a limited slip in the rear in a bad way. It just has no traction at all how it is. I hope no one expects a very elaborate build out of this, but I do want to play with it a little and see how it reacts to some changes. I think it could run a lot better with not a whole lot invested. Im hoping not to ruin the fuel mileage because it gets better mileage than anything I own. I got 19.25mpg on my drag strip tank. I have a feeling it would do 22-23mpg easy enough. Guess im getting old :hehe:
Cummins Driver
THE Cummins Driver
I didnt think I had listed any smoke goals? I would like to keep it fairly clean though.
I only backed it all the way off because I was at the drag strip just trying to see what kind of free power I could pick up with 10 minutes worth of work. If I actually get to the point of having it actually put out some fuel, I will dial in the AFC. Right now it burns cleaner than a truck with a DPF lol
JQmile - Wonder what his 60' was on that 16.0 pass? 93mph means it was making some power. Was it a 727 or A518 truck?
Mitch, Im just playing it by ear for now. Want to keep it reliable but maybe have a little fun with it too. lol
I only backed it all the way off because I was at the drag strip just trying to see what kind of free power I could pick up with 10 minutes worth of work. If I actually get to the point of having it actually put out some fuel, I will dial in the AFC. Right now it burns cleaner than a truck with a DPF lol
JQmile - Wonder what his 60' was on that 16.0 pass? 93mph means it was making some power. Was it a 727 or A518 truck?
Mitch, Im just playing it by ear for now. Want to keep it reliable but maybe have a little fun with it too. lol
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Cummins Driver
THE Cummins Driver
So the pin was the only thing changed? Id say you just talked me into going ahead and getting the pin... I thought I might make some other changes first but for the money thats a pretty good bump in power.
Cummins Driver
THE Cummins Driver
Im glad you popped in. I know you've got some experience with one of these. I just installed a fuel pin from the hungry diesel. Also bought the 3200 governor spring but will wait for a nicer day to put it in. I couldn't tell a huge difference with the pin but it helped some. I still havent messed with the power screw at all, the pin is the only thing done.
Was your truck intercooled with the A518? How far did you make it with a stock trans? So you think stock intercooled injectors are enough to get into the 14's? Thanks
Also, Im still trying to get my isspro tach to work. It will read idle up to about 1000rpm and then drops to 0 anything over that. Let off the throttle and the tach picks right back up. Doesn't matter If I have it set for 4,6, or 8 cylinders it does the same thing. It also wont work at all with the isspro tach wiring harness with the resistor hooked up but it will work like mentioned above without the resistor in place. I thought these were a bolt in install but that's definitely not the case so far for me...
Was your truck intercooled with the A518? How far did you make it with a stock trans? So you think stock intercooled injectors are enough to get into the 14's? Thanks
Also, Im still trying to get my isspro tach to work. It will read idle up to about 1000rpm and then drops to 0 anything over that. Let off the throttle and the tach picks right back up. Doesn't matter If I have it set for 4,6, or 8 cylinders it does the same thing. It also wont work at all with the isspro tach wiring harness with the resistor hooked up but it will work like mentioned above without the resistor in place. I thought these were a bolt in install but that's definitely not the case so far for me...
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No it was a 89, everything was stock other then turned up, timing, hx35 with a 18cm non gated housing and nitrous. The trans and converter was stock, im sure the convetor wasn't liking all the power tho lol. I think stock intercooled injectors are enough to get into the 13's.
Cummins Driver
THE Cummins Driver
I couldn't remember what year yours was. Pretty awesome to be able to run that fast in these old trucks with no more work than that. Did you have head studs?
I think one of my biggest issues is going to be getting this thing off the line. It has no traction at all. A limited slip would help a ton. That and some good tires. Ill get my governor spring in one of these days when its nice out and probably try it out like that and then start playing with the power screw and see what I can get out of it. Should come to life pretty good then.
I did manage to outrun my brother in laws stock with aftermarket intake 99 PSD the other day but im not sure anyone even knew we were racing :hehe:
I think one of my biggest issues is going to be getting this thing off the line. It has no traction at all. A limited slip would help a ton. That and some good tires. Ill get my governor spring in one of these days when its nice out and probably try it out like that and then start playing with the power screw and see what I can get out of it. Should come to life pretty good then.
I did manage to outrun my brother in laws stock with aftermarket intake 99 PSD the other day but im not sure anyone even knew we were racing :hehe: