ODL

cumins01 said:
Are the 60's still holding together with HP we are seeing now? I just don't want to have to replace the 60 R/P all the time like I did the 80. So you could use a 1410 series off the dropbox and 60 a be fine. Most guys using 1550 series for the rear shaft?
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Buy the kit to put the 70 internals in the 60 housing. The other thread had a link to the kit. I run 1480 on both rears and the dropbox.
 
DISTURBED said:
Buy the kit to put the 70 internals in the 60 housing. The other thread had a link to the kit. I run 1480 on both rears and the dropbox.
Click to expand...

You've had no problems with the 1480's all the way around? Are you still running a "stock style" front end Jeremy or a aftermarket one? Did you put the 70 internals in a 60 housing?
 
cumins01 said:
You've had no problems with the 1480's all the way around? Are you still running a "stock style" front end Jeremy or a aftermarket one? Did you put the 70 internals in a 60 housing?
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I broke a 1480 stock yoke on the rear and a slip shaft on the rear shaft but never a joint. I put a 106 under the front of mine this winter. I never went the 70 in the 60 route but know some who have and they haven't had any issues. I did break my 60 every pass last year. I gave up after 6 hooks.
 
cumins01 said:
Are the 60's still holding together with HP we are seeing now? I just don't want to have to replace the 60 R/P all the time like I did the 80. So you could use a 1410 series off the dropbox and 60 a be fine. Most guys using 1550 series for the rear shaft?
Click to expand...

One of our trucks is making over 2000hp on cuts with no R&P failures this year, has over 60 passes on it total. Alot has to do with how they are set up, but the pinion is the weak link no doubt. I would at least go 1550 rear and 1480 front in my opinion.
 
SledPuller21 said:
One of our trucks is making over 2000hp on cuts with no R&P failures this year, has over 60 passes on it total. Alot has to do with how they are set up, but the pinion is the weak link no doubt. I would at least go 1550 rear and 1480 front in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Still running a 60 up front with 60 internals?
 
I looked at the kit to put 70 parts in a 60 housing, a good amount of grinding to do but looks like it would hold up. For the guys still running the 60, are you leaving the stock hubs on it or doing a conversion and running drive flanges? So many options for the front axle. I have everything needed from engine rear ward except shafts and figuring on what to do with the front axle. Spent all my dollars on the parts that take the most abuse. Also when mounting a dropbox using a 60 front axle, did you guys make the drive shaft for the front in a straight line and the rear angled or split the difference (both shafts offset). I seen a couple posts about drive line angle, power loss, etc. Just torn on which way to go.
 
In my father's mod truck they set the drop box to have the drive shafts flat, straight for the rear drive shaft and the front drive shafts at an angle to the right. Our theory is as simple as as long as the u joint is not angled on more axis there shouldn't have any problems. As far as I know since 1994 he has never broken a u joint (640 CI, 106 rear, 70 front)

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Sarafin said:
In my father's mod truck they set the drop box to have the drive shafts flat, straight for the rear drive shaft and the front drive shafts at an angle to the right. Our theory is as simple as as long as the u joint is not angled on more axis there shouldn't have any problems. As far as I know since 1994 he has never broken a u joint (640 CI, 106 rear, 70 front)

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and 2000 lbs less weight..... :poke: :poke: :poke:
 
Yes still a 60 in the front. All of the ODL trucks we've set up with a 60 we run the Dropbox on an angle so the front shaft is straighter than the rear
 
What does everyone run for u joints on there trucks? Heard 1480 and heard 1550

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