hand shaking with the 10s

Basically, it comes down to a beefy transmission, that you'll likely shift only once.
Hmmmm .
 
This seems like making your own game so you can get a trophy, cause your not good enough to get a trophy in the game everyone that is any good plays. Why not just take one injector out and then you can try to be the fastest 6 cylinder diesel that runs on 5...
 
Hurley said:
regarding a T-56 behind some power, our shop car cracked the gears in 1st thru 4th behind ~1000whp/tq @ 2780lb race weight . 346ci LS, twin 66's

Du Hast: FIREBREATHING 280z - Twin Turbo BEAST! - YouTube
Click to expand...

Hurley said:
That was with OEM gearset, faceplated, and with a Viper output; it now has a Geforce gearset for this season
Click to expand...

This car is the CHIT!! I have always been a fan of Datsun

I can't imagine T56 would stand a chance with an added 2000# race weight.
 
zstroken said:
This seems like making your own game so you can get a trophy, cause your not good enough to get a trophy in the game everyone that is any good plays. Why not just take one injector out and then you can try to be the fastest 6 cylinder diesel that runs on 5...
Click to expand...

You actually think I could get a trophy? That would be boss!!!! :umno:

There are tone of people that race stick in the gas world...it's purely because they want to.

This is no different. If I wanted the fastest Diesel on the planet then I would be trying to build that, but I am not.

I love stick shifts and banging gears, I would love to be the fastest at it.

I expect to spend a ton of time and money building this truck and never see a return other then a couple ataboy's from COMPD. Is what it is and not the point at all.

Cheers:Cheer:
 
zstroken said:
This seems like making your own game so you can get a trophy, cause your not good enough to get a trophy in the game everyone that is any good plays. Why not just take one injector out and then you can try to be the fastest 6 cylinder diesel that runs on 5...
Click to expand...

Lol what's wrong with doing something different? He wants to try to make a manual faster, big deal. He could be another smoke blowing douchebag but instead he's trying to make some power and have fun. Oh noooooo! It can't be.
 
DDually said:
Lol what's wrong with doing something different? He wants to try to make a manual faster, big deal. He could be another smoke blowing douchebag but instead he's trying to make some power and have fun. Oh noooooo! It can't be.
Click to expand...



:thankyou2:
 
So... what are you starting with? The SC 12v in your picture? What are your engine plans/current engine setup you have to work with. The transmission end of things is pretty simple, I would start worrying about making the power and getting the truck gutted.

Considering your best bet would be just a 3-4 shift, you will need an engine setup that has a really broad power curve from 3000-5000rpm. I would say compounds or triples will be a must unless you plan on slipping the clutch for the first 60ft.

Good luck:Cheer:
 
What is the truck's current best e.t and mph?

Also do you guys think you could face plate a NV or would it just blow right away?
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
So... what are you starting with? The SC 12v in your picture? What are your engine plans/current engine setup you have to work with. The transmission end of things is pretty simple, I would start worrying about making the power and getting the truck gutted.

Considering your best bet would be just a 3-4 shift, you will need an engine setup that has a really broad power curve from 3000-5000rpm. I would say compounds or triples will be a must unless you plan on slipping the clutch for the first 60ft.

Good luck:Cheer:
Click to expand...


It is the RCLB in my photo.

current setup is: Studs,18* timing, 3000gov kit. This is how I bought the truck.

The original point of this post was to see what horsepower goal I should be shooting for to put this truck in the realm of the 10s.

I assume it will take a bit more than an auto to run out the slower start but how much?

Is the HP calculator correct? Can you run a 5000# auto in the 10s with 700HP?

I am willing to build this motor to the level it takes....just not sure what I should be shooting for.

I understand that the better the truck plants and runs the lower the power can be and I am making plans to tune the chassis and get it as good as I can.
 
EnduringAtlas said:
What is the truck's current best e.t and mph?

Also do you guys think you could face plate a NV or would it just blow right away?
Click to expand...

This truck has never been down a track....I drove it daily until it needed tore apart and I have decided to make this the truck that goes 10s with a stick.
 
I'm trying to remain constructive Jim.

I don't know that the horsepower (RPM) required will allow the mighty 12 valve to live through the stress of a clutch unloading and reloading. I predict the extreme likelihood of shrapnel.
 
Snedge said:
I'm trying to remain constructive Jim.

I don't know that the horsepower (RPM) required will allow the mighty 12 valve to live through the stress of a clutch unloading and reloading. I predict the extreme likelihood of shrapnel.
Click to expand...

Maybe your right...maybe your not.

The point is I plan to do what can be done to get it to hold and see what happens...If the goal is simply out of reach then it just is but its an unknown right now.
 
In my experience, it takes about 200 or more hp to be nearly as fast as the auto's with a stick. Yes, there will always be exceptions and flukes/unicorns or whatever, but if you can stay on top of the charger(s) and leave consistently, you're still gonna lose time every shift; ie. the less shifting the better.

I think you should be shooting at 900-1000hp, with a really flat hp curve in the mid to upper RPM range for 10's at ~5500 lbs. Now, keeping the trans alive- good luck with that.
 
So I guess that is were it sits for now.

I will start planning and pulling parts for a 1000HP and try and get it as paper light as this fat girl can get.
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
So... what are you starting with? The SC 12v in your picture? What are your engine plans/current engine setup you have to work with. The transmission end of things is pretty simple, I would start worrying about making the power and getting the truck gutted.

Considering your best bet would be just a 3-4 shift, you will need an engine setup that has a really broad power curve from 3000-5000rpm. I would say compounds or triples will be a must unless you plan on slipping the clutch for the first 60ft.

Good luck:Cheer:
Click to expand...

Exactly what I thought reading the first 2 pages.
 
So what kinda air/fuel you think is ideal for this curve?

I would rather stay with compounds over triples to save weight and simplicity.

I will mill the intake off and do a full port/polish

maybe a 63sxe over 480 - 5x18 injectors?
 
12valve95 said:
So what kinda air/fuel you think is ideal for this curve?

I would rather stay with compounds over triples to save weight and simplicity.

I will mill the intake off and do a full port/polish

maybe a 63sxe over 480 - 5x18 injectors?
Click to expand...

I would say something like a s472/s488+ or so. Im not really a 12v guy, im sure others would have some better input for 1200hp in a 12v. It is cheaper to go big first though.

Just think you can get the engine and truck built for high 10s with a manual, then once you break down and swap to an auto you will have a 9sec truck. lol
 
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