Time for balljoints....

red dodge2

red dodge2

New member
2010 ram 3500, 191,000 miles. Factory ones are shot. I know there are quite a few options out there. Which brand seems to hold up best? Thought about just putting factory ones back in it. Any opinions/advice are appreciated. Thanks.
 
If the factory ones made it that far I'd just throw in another set. They've gotta be cheaper than the Carlis and what are the chances you'll have the truck after 190k more miles?
 
zachu812 said:
If the factory ones made it that far I'd just throw in another set. They've gotta be cheaper than the Carlis and what are the chances you'll have the truck after 190k more miles?
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Yep exactly my thought. Probably what’s going to happen.
 
I put Carli in all 3 of my trucks after having Moog, Napa, etc all last about 1 year each. Got tired of constantly replacing ball joints. Went with Carli's about 5 years ago and no problems since.
 
I was thinking OEM or MOOG.

No way in Hell I'd spend what Carli wants for ball joints. Their margin must be insane. Maybe if the OEM ones only lasted a year I would, but eight years isn't bad.
 
CorneliusRox said:
I was thinking OEM or MOOG.

No way in Hell I'd spend what Carli wants for ball joints. Their margin must be insane. Maybe if the OEM ones only lasted a year I would, but eight years isn't bad.
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I run carli in my truck which is overkill for the little bit I drive it.

Only suggestion I have is make sure whatever brand you are going to use isn’t knurled.


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B00ST00 said:
I run carli in my truck which is overkill for the little bit I drive it.

Only suggestion I have is make sure whatever brand you are going to use isn’t knurled.
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Does it tear up the soft cast iron knuckles or is it just harder to get in/out?
 
Under $400 for factory oem balljoints. I know they aren’t greasable, but they’ve lasted a long time. If you have the right tools to do the job which I do, I don’t think it’ll be that bad, just time consuming.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Does it tear up the soft cast iron knuckles or is it just harder to get in/out?
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Yes, it opens them up and there’s a chance you won’t be able to go back to a non knurled ball joint without pressing in a sleeve.


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B00ST00 said:
Yes, it opens them up and there’s a chance you won’t be able to go back to a non knurled ball joint without pressing in a sleeve.


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EMF makes oversized ball joints just for this reason. I know 4 guys running EMF’s and they are great. They just aren’t making them for the early 2nd gen’s anymore.
 
thinair said:
EMF makes oversized ball joints just for this reason. I know 4 guys running EMF’s and they are great. They just aren’t making them for the early 2nd gen’s anymore.
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When I was daily driving my 12V I hated this. There are so many options for late 2nd gen's but next to nothing for early models. I used to do ball joints on that every year or so after switching it to 37's. I can do one rusty side in about 70min. The last ones I did were cheap NAPA ones and they've lasted the longest so far. I think it was ~$300 for all four. Who knows what's different.
 
carli 1st, EMF 2nd, XRF 3rd. synergy is also making ball joints now but I haven't seen any info on them
 
DynaTrac also makes them and are rebuild able. I use Carli BJ's with 42's and a truss, and fully gusseted knuckles so the BJ's take all the abuse. Rock solid for many years now. You should see how long your tires will last with a front axle that doesn't flex! lol
 
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