We've got a 2012 freightliner with the isl in it. Turbo actuator is starting to act up. I didn't know if we could get away with just replacing the actuator. If not, is a rebuilt turbo + new actuator an option or just go with all new. I suppose availability plays into it as well. Turbo has about 475k on it but has had free flowing exhaust after it since about 250k.
ISL turbo
- Thread starter regcanfan
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jfaulkner
Douche Hunter
Snedge
Comp Diesel Sponsor
There is also an FMI code number, that would narrow it down. SPN641 is an actuator fault code, but the FMI (Fault mode identifier) gives us a more specific path to troubleshoot.
The actuator can be replaced on it's own, but will need calibrated to the charger. When the actuator is removed, you would want to check the turbo sector shaft for full range of motion. If it is stiff, sticks, or can not reach full travel, the turbo is causing the fault. Again, we'd need the FMI number to understand the nature of the code in the first place
The actuator can be replaced on it's own, but will need calibrated to the charger. When the actuator is removed, you would want to check the turbo sector shaft for full range of motion. If it is stiff, sticks, or can not reach full travel, the turbo is causing the fault. Again, we'd need the FMI number to understand the nature of the code in the first place
Snedge
Comp Diesel Sponsor
Okay, that'll help. I'll say this, if the truck was in our shop I'd normally recommend a turbo with the mileage you have on it.
However, if you don't put a lot of miles on it annually, or the truck stays pretty local to home, an actuator replacement may fix you up without the risk of a turbo failure hundreds miles from home.
However, if you don't put a lot of miles on it annually, or the truck stays pretty local to home, an actuator replacement may fix you up without the risk of a turbo failure hundreds miles from home.
Plugged the scanner in before the truck took off this morning. I had erased the codes earlier and the code mentioned before didn't pop back up yesterday. The only codes there were a SPN639 FMI 2 and a SPN1209 FMI 5.
Truck gets driven daily, but only goes in about a 200 mile radius. Like mentioned above it might be best to bite the bullet. Idk, but the little motor maybe getting a bit tired as well. Doesn't burn much oil, but gets used hard and with those miles on that smaller motor idk if its about used up its life or not. I need to send in an oil sample on the next oil change and see how that comes back.
Truck gets driven daily, but only goes in about a 200 mile radius. Like mentioned above it might be best to bite the bullet. Idk, but the little motor maybe getting a bit tired as well. Doesn't burn much oil, but gets used hard and with those miles on that smaller motor idk if its about used up its life or not. I need to send in an oil sample on the next oil change and see how that comes back.
jfaulkner
Douche Hunter
Don’t waste your time on the oil samples. It’s like having a bathroom scale, wtf is the point if you aren’t going to do anything about it? I’ve always asked guys who swear by them what they would do if the sample comes back with a high count of X metal. Are they really going to pull out a perfectly good running engine because of it?
An a friend 20+yrs ago that was changing oil in his truck with an N14. Had to push a piece of bearing out of the hole with his finger so the oil would drain faster. Ran that truck for another year before selling it.
My A&P mechanic keeps getting metal in his oil filter on his plane, sent oil sample and included a baggie with the metal flakes. Blackstone said they didn’t want the metal flakes and the oil came back with a good report. He said “sample seems kind of a waste of time”. Duh.
Got the truck in. The egr cooler was leaking bad and the plates where the EGR valve was were leaking a touch as well. Fixed the leaks and it seemed to straighten the turbo out. There was some gear noise at idle as well. Pulled the cover off and everything seemed tight. They took the gear off the fuel pump and it felt rough. Replaced the pump and still had the growl. Pulled the gear off of the air compressor and started it with the gear off and still the same. Retimed the air compressor after installing the gear again. Checked the overheads and they were not to bad. A couple were loose, so adjusted all the valves. Not sure what the growl is. The mechanic was stumped as well. Just going to run it, as it doesn't seem to be any thing catastrophic. Unless someone here has any ideas.