Getrag 360 reseal

I’m tired of always having to be mindful of where I park or carry a sheet of OSB to slide under the trans of my 12v because of the oil leak. I’m 99% sure it’s the bearing retainer housing on the front of the trans. The oil that leaks is gold in color as the engine oil is darker in color. (Same oil viscosity in both engine and trans)

What is needed to seal this trans for good? Just some ‘right stuff’ sealant for the metal to metal faces? I’ve pulled several NV4500 and 5600’s, but never a 360 so I’m foreign to the front view of this trans. I also plan to reseal the PTO cover. Clutch holds good, will replace the flywheel and probably rear main seal while it’s accessible.

So far a combination of metric and standard sockets & wrenches is needed. Would have had the trans out in 3 hours if I didn’t loan out my home made plate for pulling transmissions, and my 3/8” snap-on air impact didn’t decide to take a dump. Plus one u-joint cup fell to the ground. Typical.

Not too bad for 27 years of farm life and oil leaks. I’ve worked on newer truck that are worse than this.

We had someone totally rebuild our 360 a year or two ago, when we got the bill I wished I would’ve just swapped a nv4500 in it for the same or less money.
Live and learn I guess.

other than that all I know is we have trouble with our speedo, but I’ve never actually had to mess with the trans despite all the horrendous noises it makes

I have to recall my previous post. This unit looks to have been worked on before. No paper gaskets used anywhere and the input shaft has 3/99 stamped on it. The shaft looks to have been replaced.

My oil leak was the small bearing cover on the counter shaft. The last mechanic didn’t apply much rtv at all to this cap. I went ahead and opened up the top cover to inspect the gears. All looked in order, though the gears definitely show some wear. Not too surprising. New sealant on all the important surfaces.

After getting everything back together, new rear main seal, new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing installed, the reinstall started. Everything works as it should, except the petal pressure for the clutch feels off. As you press the clutch petal further, it becomes stiffer. Where as many other clutches I’ve felt have a break over point higher up in the travel. It also feels as if the input shaft keeps spinning and the clutch doesn’t fully disengage the trans from engine. Hard to get into gear from a stop.

My local auto parts ordered the clutch kit. (We’ve bought from this same store forever) They said it came from Pep Boys as a mild upgrade clutch. Though the pressure plate ratings are the same as stock. Not happy with the clutch result, the trans is coming back out this evening. If they will give me a refund, I’m ordering a Valair kit. I know better and should have done this in the first place instead of trying to rush and cram everything at once.

mfsuper90 said:

We had someone totally rebuild our 360 a year or two ago, when we got the bill I wished I would’ve just swapped a nv4500 in it for the same or less money.
Live and learn I guess.

other than that all I know is we have trouble with our speedo, but I’ve never actually had to mess with the trans despite all the horrendous noises it makes

Click to expand...

What application was the trans being used in? So far, I’ve had zero mechanical issues with mine.

Your hydros are PROBABLY going south, which is why they don't feel right and clutch doesn't disengage.
You can try removing the bladder in the reservoir, remove the slave on the bell, then push the pushrod in by hand a few times (it'll return on it's own, slowly), to try to push any air out of the hydros.

Mark.

Which is strange being the slave cylinder was working properly before this adventure.

Definitely easier to replace the slave cylinder than an entire clutch.

But this doesn’t give reason to the overall pressure I’m feeling in the petal. Unless the cylinder is just bypassing fluid inside now.

Not strange at all.
I stuck an NV5600 in my 96 last year, changed the clutch out at the same time.
It not only got weaker, it started leaking!

Your truck is 27 years old, Lord knows how many 100k miles.
Things wear out, just think about how many times those cylinders have moved in 27 years?

Mark.

I see what your saying Mark. The hydros have been replaced at least once that I can tell. So they are definitely not original.

This still doesn’t change the fact that this clutch feel is all together wrong. I did the right thing yesterday and ordered a Valair kit. Should arrive tomorrow. Need the truck this weekend. Par for the course.

Old clutch out (less than 100 miles on it). New Valair clutch bolted up. Thanks to the guys at Valair for pointing me in the right direction and helping me understand the differences.

I also changed out my shift fork pivot ball to a nylon tipped style. I was informed the G360 forks tend to wear out at the pivot point and these forks are not available in the aftermarket. This pivot ball is a direct thread in replacement. Available from the dealer.

Stabbed the trans to the engine and hung the cross member last night. Button up the rest and test drive today.

The new Valair clutch feels like a clutch should. Nice smooth engagement, perfect break over point, easy petal to press. Very pleased.

But no clutch job would be complete without dropping a U-joint cup and all the needle bearings falling out. I was impressed with how this original Spicer u-joint from 1991 still looks.