Need some tips.

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BayleeWatson07

New member
I have a 1990 2wd d250 cummins that I'm planning on pulling with in October. BHAF, BD fuel pin and 3200 rpm governor spring, pump turned a little, and 4" turbo back exhaust. I'm planning on running a 33" all terrain or mud grip on back? Would it be a good idea to put blocks in the rear to lift it? I'm new to this so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
If this is your daily driver, run the baldest tires you can find. No joke. Breaking your daily driver is no fun. Otherwise, something aggressive will suit you.

What's your location and whose rules will you be pulling under? That determines whether or not you can have blocks. If you can have blocks, a chunk of 6x6 will do.

If it does not hook up both tires on the street, but some weight on the spinning side and put a lot of weight at the back of the bed. Around the Midwest 8,000 lbs is the standard diesel class and your D model is at a whopping 5-5500 lbs.

Also, your hitch height is something like 22"-24" now, so an adjustable hitch would be good. Generally 2wds can hook at 30" or 31".

Also 727 or Getrag?
 
It is a 727. I will be pulling in White Plains, GA. I checked rules and you can have blocks. And I kind of want to pull a street class with no weight if possible.
 
Most often only hanging weight is not permitted, but other forms of gaining weight is ok. I still pulled in a street class with some weight shuffled around.

With out any weight over the back wheels, I see you having a hard time moving the sled at all. These 1st gens are so dang light compared to the trucks produced today.

Just my $.02
 
First off.. Good luck... Glad to see a few more people hooking with a 2wd.
There is plenty of info here about different setups and advice.
For tires id stick with the ATs. What kind of hitch are you planning on using??
That will give you an idea on how your suspention blocks will need to be.
Also what trans do you have??
 
It is the torqueflite 727 trans. It will more than likely be a homemade hitch. This is probably a really stupid question, but where does everyone get their weights from?
 
farmers with so many tractor weights collected over the years that they don't know what to do with them lol. Oh and a stay away from using wood for suspension blocks. That automatic is gonna hurt you. do a D80 swap with4.63 or 4.88 gears and an NV4500. Run 2nd gear. Traction bars are a must if it lifts the front end any. you will bend the frame if you do not have them after a while. Main thing is to get enought HP under the hood and enough RPM down the track. p-pump is your friend in this situation along with a good charger and injectors. Not the ebay special stuff either.
 
kino_fab said:
farmers with so many tractor weights collected over the years that they don't know what to do with them lol. Oh and a stay away from using wood for suspension blocks. That automatic is gonna hurt you. do a D80 swap with4.63 or 4.88 gears and an NV4500. Run 2nd gear. Traction bars are a must if it lifts the front end any. you will bend the frame if you do not have them after a while. Main thing is to get enought HP under the hood and enough RPM down the track. p-pump is your friend in this situation along with a good charger and injectors. Not the ebay special stuff either.
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I would like to do all of that down the road, but this is my first pull and I just want to see what it's all about. I'm not trying to win anything, I'm happy if it just moves it a little bit. Is this possible? Or am I just going to sit still whenever I try to move it?
 
If you weight it right, you can move it. You'll be surprised what a "stock" 2wd will do.

If you've had this 2wd for a while, you know how get moving without spinning tires too much. Once you're moving, it's all about the ground speed game.

Anything heavy will work for weight. I used concrete hog slats and slid my tool box to the back of the bed.
 
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Do you just lay them in the bed? I've had the truck for about 3 or 4 years now. So once I get it moving just lay into it as much as possible without breaking the tires lose?
 
I wish I'd taken a picture of how I had the weight set in my '89.

From what I've experienced and read, you want weight in the bed. I had 4 concrete hog slats (2 parallel with the tail gate, 2 parallel with the passenger bedside) and then I slid my tool box all the way back against the tail gate.

The tires will spin, but you want them to spin the right amount. It's like getting unstuck from 1/4" of mud or wet grass LOL

When you feel like you're on top of it and aren't accelerating yet still moving, bump it into second.
 
For pulling stock try to get as much weight in as others have said. The biggest thing that helped me is welding the rear to get all 4 tires pulling. If you can run dually tires and wheels do it.
 
I put extra weight on the passenger side of my bed because that's the side that would spin. I was told that both tires were spinning as I went down the track.

Just my opinion, don't weld up a D71. They're getting rare and expensive to replace or fix.
 
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