Never gonna figure this out. Well, I can't.

trucken

New member
2004 RAM 2500. yesterday stumbled, RPMs lowered to 500 then stalled. Towed home.

Checked fuel; OK
Checked FASS150: 14+ PSI
Changed rail psi sensor, and blocked off rail psi relief valve.

Nothing runs..

Disconnected 1 of the inj pumps it ran but rough, fuel rattle. Swapped using other PPE CP3 pump, ran rough too. Plugged in both, it stalled.

Rail pressure is now showing 25,000 psi while idling very rough w/ 1 CP3 pump online.. Not Right historically was about 5,000

While wrenching off/on rail relief valve my arm was laying on brake M/C, I felt the slight buzz of voltage tickling my arm. hmmmm

Checked codes: 0088(probably from disconnecting rail pressure sensor while running) & 0193
 
Look at the fan wiring, under and to the rear of the AC compressor

Alpha Beta Test Monkey
Guang-Zoo Turbo Systems
 
Hey not to be a douch but stop posting this in the vendor section. Wideopen moved your last post.
 
Weird, Rail pressure is now showing 26,000 psi while idling very rough w/ 1 CP3 pump (either) online.. Not Right historically was about 5,000
 
My truck did the exact same thing. It ended up being the FCA pigtail. I spliced a new one on and the truck was fixed. Like an idiot I tried two new FCA's, a controller, and RPS before I did this. Upside I have lots of extra parts.
 
Sounds right to me or at least a great starting point, if you unplug the FCA you'd get same results. Check FCA and pigtail and get back to us
 
It uses a manual fan clutch. Might should have been an electric fan, cool better while towing, in mountains.
 
I just got confirmation the Dual CP3 controller is Fine! So I can check that off...What else?? Weird to me, it with 1 CP3 (either) pump pegs my rail gauge at 26,000 psi. Maybe once it senses lack of second pump online, it opens a circuit inside pump causing it to go wide open. I'm getting a fuel sounding rattle during this. I thought rattle was from low fuel psi... Puzzled...
 
I peeled back the wire cover on the pigtail on the CP3 pump. Saw nothing that would at a glance seem chafed or cut.

Cleaned up a lot of spaghetti wires that were tapped off the (back) ECM plug. Cut, soldiered, heat shrinked all connections. Didn't look bad for what I expected.

connect batteries, cleared out codes, started and No Change. Still pegging Rail meter at 26,000 and noisy fuel rattle, Sounds like a Powerstroke. I cannot deal with that.

I did move it around parking lot, so...Theres that....But Its Wrong. Very Wrong.

Not sure what to test (or procedure) with either ohms or volt meter out. More importantly, Not sure which plugs..

Sigh......
 
Last edited:
I did this as well. Pulled open plug, tuner cleaned out, dielectric grease and replugged. Even same procedure with Crank angle sensor plug. It just happened to be in front of he, so why not.

No Change. Sigh


It uses a manual fan clutch. Might should have been an electric fan, cool better while towing, in mountains.
 
It uses a manual fan clutch. Might should have been an electric fan, cool better while towing, in mountains.
I can understand this, but what of the harness in that area? Even if it's not utilized, the harness can have been damaged in that area. This is provided there is no extenuating circumstance, like the harness just simply isn't there any more.

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk
 
I looked at the harness. It looks normal, no obvious damage. I did not meter anything cause I don't know details of what and how to test procedures.

I might just truck it up to Garmon's Diesel Performance in Griffin Ga. I cant find a guru specializing in Cummins Performance trucks with many mods in Tampa Bay area.
 
Back
Top