Lowered 4x4 track bar?
- Thread starter gmc500
- Start date
It's the same thing as when you put a 2" level kit in it shifts the frt end over to the left a tinny bit, just oposite for going lower, shifts the frt to the right a small amount. My 2nd gen drag truck is lowered about as much as possible and I run a stock track bar and it isn't even noticeable without a tape measure, and drives and handles fine.
With the rubber bump stops removed I'm 3.5" from the bottom of the metal bump stop holder to the pad on the front axle.
Gasoline Sucks
slow 12v
Mines about 2” lower on stock moog track bar. When it wears out I just trade it in for a new one lifetime warranty. Drives and handles great.
Last edited:
turbo2387
Nipple Fluffer
I don't wanna be a D#$K because the original poster probably wont ever return but alas. the above pictured truck is rear leveled not lowered in the front. I went to great lengths trying to figure out how to actually lower the front end safely. It can be done but with much work that ultimately wasn't worth it for me.
the bump stops have to be removed
the OE control arms have to be lengthened to push the axle forward about an inch. I did this with aftermarket Sky-Jacker lift arms.
this centers the axle in the fender well so you can turn
now you find out once you set the truck down under its own weight that the pumpkin actually hits the trac bar mount on the frame. this can be modified on the dif itself to clear. a bolt needs to be removed and a plate connecting the 2 adjacent bolts needs to be fabricated to the cover doesn't leak aswell as the bracket on the frame needs some massage work.
now the problem is once you cut your springs (or order special ones) to lower the stance your steering linkage is in serious conflict with the rest of the steering linkages due to the fact that its all compressed. this is where I threw in the towel. max lowering on a 4x4 without serious big time extensive surgery is about 1.5 inches (with surgery). just not worth it to most. I chose to put a 33/12.5.20 in the wheel well to trick the eyes a bit more than a 305.
to each their own but lowering a 4x4 2nd gen in the front isn't a cake walk.
the bump stops have to be removed
the OE control arms have to be lengthened to push the axle forward about an inch. I did this with aftermarket Sky-Jacker lift arms.
this centers the axle in the fender well so you can turn
now you find out once you set the truck down under its own weight that the pumpkin actually hits the trac bar mount on the frame. this can be modified on the dif itself to clear. a bolt needs to be removed and a plate connecting the 2 adjacent bolts needs to be fabricated to the cover doesn't leak aswell as the bracket on the frame needs some massage work.
now the problem is once you cut your springs (or order special ones) to lower the stance your steering linkage is in serious conflict with the rest of the steering linkages due to the fact that its all compressed. this is where I threw in the towel. max lowering on a 4x4 without serious big time extensive surgery is about 1.5 inches (with surgery). just not worth it to most. I chose to put a 33/12.5.20 in the wheel well to trick the eyes a bit more than a 305.
to each their own but lowering a 4x4 2nd gen in the front isn't a cake walk.
Gasoline Sucks
slow 12v
The pics can be decieving. The factory 4.75” rear block is removed, spring is sitting on the axle. Had to shorten driveshaft quite a bit. Rear sway bar still works fine. Front coils cut lowering the front 1-3/4-2” according to a calibrated Stanley tape measure. Have about 5k miles on this setup with no ill effects all the way to 130mph. No steering binding and I had the truck aligned drives strait as an arrow but it better every steering component is under 2 yrs old.
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CorneliusRox
Seasoned Rookie
CorneliusRox
Seasoned Rookie
x2! They're sexy