Truckers, lets see your rigs!

What would an acert push out for blow by on a newish motor on a hard pull full boost? What would a dyno show for blow by?

What would be an acceptable number for that motor?

Or an acceptable number for a Detroit with low miles pushing 50 psi?
 
CATs threshold for warranty is 2.2 times HP = FT^3 per minute
Using an acoustic meter for ACERT.
By that point, they are pouring oil.


I would have to do some leg work to convert that to manometer terms. MHuggler might know in pressure terms.

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biggy238 said:
CATs threshold for warranty is 2.2 times HP = FT^3 per minute
Using an acoustic meter for ACERT.
By that point, they are pouring oil.


I would have to do some leg work to convert that to manometer terms. MHuggler might know in pressure terms.

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Click to expand...



I’m not sure what that would be in terms compared to Detroit. They measure “ of water.

I wonder if they make a manometer that can be placed on truck and measure high points so they could be checked after a run. Where some full throttle pulls are used.

Looking at a low mile factory reman. And dyno sheet had it at 2.7 at peak hp. It spiked to 3.7 then dropped back down at lower rpm. I have nothing to compare this too but a rebuilt motor of mine that topped out at .79 “ of water max but isn’t pushing the boost this engine is.

Detroit allows a max of 5 or so the dyno sheet says.
 
The blowby and oil use will be somewhat related but not totally. Mine still has a touch of blowby from the rebuild breakin but it is using ZERO oil. No leaks either. Good mechanic ;)

Still want to get my clunker on the dyno. Should do a bigger turbo for that.
 
Excell makes one also. Manometer, RISEPRO Digital Air Pressure Meter and Differential Pressure Gauge HVAC Gas Pressure Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01680C4C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qw-bEbXBZEBNG
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Anyway to tell how many holes are in my axle for the centering pin? I see one hole in front of the beam. And then assuming the middle one. If I need the axle 5/8” forward..... could I not cut a plug the size of existing pin and fill the hole in the axle and drill a new hole in the axle 5/8” back?
 
Ram12vcummins said:
Anyway to tell how many holes are in my axle for the centering pin? I see one hole in front of the beam. And then assuming the middle one. If I need the axle 5/8” forward..... could I not cut a plug the size of existing pin and fill the hole in the axle and drill a new hole in the axle 5/8” back?
Click to expand...

You’d be fine as long as you can offset the top unbolt plate accordingly.

I wouldn’t worry about making a plug to weld in the existing hole. Just leave it open. Spring will sit on it and not hurt a thing.

One thing to keep in mind is if you move the axle forward you’ll probably need to pop your pitman arm off and rotate it forward a tooth or two to get your steering wheel centered, and your steering angle the same each direction.
Not a big deal. I had to do it when I lowered my Classic.
 
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bracker8040 said:
You’d be fine as long as you can offset the top unbolt plate accordingly.

I wouldn’t worry about making a plug to weld in the existing hole. Just leave it open. Spring will sit on it and not hurt a thing.

One thing to keep in mind is if you move the axle forward you’ll probably need to pop your pitman arm off and rotate it forward a tooth or two to get your steering wheel centered, and your steering angle the same each direction.
Not a big deal. I had to do it when I lowered my Classic.
Click to expand...



Drilling the perch is to keep my axle where it is located now. The new springs have the centering pin 5/8” back. (I’ll confirm the measurement tomorrow). So to avoid my axle being moved back, I thought if I drill the perch 5/8” back it would keep my axle in the right spot and not sacrifice the spring structure. My issue with filling the hole was maybe being too close to the other one and slowly making its way into it.
I thought a plug wild at least fill the void and hopefully stop that.

I’ll have to look at the top back and ubolt bracket and see how it centre’s itself or if it’s just a loose fit hole over the nut. I’d assume that’s what it is. I should be able to make it larger to slide the 5/8” as well. I don’t think it needs to hold onto the centering pin.

I wasn’t gonna well the pin in. Didn’t even think of that. Would it matter or harm the axle if I did?
 
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