P-Pump a 6.7

SledPuller21 said:
I would like to hear your reasoning as to why a 6.7 isn't a high rpm engine? We turn them harder than 5.9s. Also a properly tuned p-pumped will drive with good street manners, piss poor tuning and setups give p-pumps a bad name for street driving.
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So p-pumps have to be tuned? I thought you just put in laser cuts, gutted the AFC and tightened up the gov springs till they bottomed out.
 
RonA said:
So p-pumps have to be tuned? I thought you just put in laser cuts, gutted the AFC and tightened up the gov springs till they bottomed out.
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LOL. You forgot to pull & pitch the stop plate. Other than that Ron, you're spot on.
 
97rada said:
Just curious, what is your reasoning ?
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I'd be willing to bet that a 6.7 common rail will make better power and run cleaner that a p-pumped 6.7. It's hard to beat the ability to control timing as rpm goes up. It takes several trips to the pump shop to make a high performance(13mm) pump work correctly on the street. First trip gets you HP, but it will need a second trip to get the fuel right for idle and still have rpm. Kevin told me he could give me both once I had a baseline, but I got tired of it before I got a chance to send it back.
 
The more I mess with these trucks the more I want a common rail. Hate the cost that is associated with the parts though
 
97rada said:
The more I mess with these trucks the more I want a common rail. Hate the cost that is associated with the parts though
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That's why I've gone back to p pumps. CR parts are crazy money. Also, the mechanical reliability of the P is unbeatable.
 
LORDDiESEL said:
That's why I've gone back to p pumps. CR parts are crazy money. Also, the mechanical reliability of the P is unbeatable.
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I will finish my ppump motor but it's really hard to see all these common rail motors making the power they do so easily
 
I love p-pumps. There simplicity and lack of electronic high dollar widgits makes them desirable for me. Because they work even if things aren't quite right' it can make a p-pump conversion problematic though. Setting up injectors properly on a p-pumped 24V yields nice gains in power and street manners. Most don't do it because it's tedious. Weston knows way more than he shares openly about this subject.LOL But don't go calling him and telling him I said so. I'd like to stay on his good side.
 
RonA said:
I love p-pumps. There simplicity and lack of electronic high dollar widgits makes them desirable for me. Because they work even if things aren't quite right' it can make a p-pump conversion problematic though. Setting up injectors properly on a p-pumped 24V yields nice gains in power and street manners. Most don't do it because it's tedious. Weston knows way more than he shares openly about this subject.LOL But don't go calling him and telling him I said so. I'd like to stay on his good side.
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Thanks, so going to get them with weston.

its not like this is gonna be a daily driver. this is a 70s Ford, lowered, shortbed with plastic windows, fiber body. slicks, race truck only. electronics could have been a pain to set up. so after simplicity.

Got a vp head and ordering stocks from weston,
Valve springs should i order Hamilton $400 or DAP from jkidd $279
 
So I have a 97 12v 5spd. I have a complete VP head sitting on a shelf, and access to a 6.7 long block for 1k. I understand porting my 12v head is the easiest way, but will all these parts, its hard not to think about a p-pump 24v, or 6.7.
 
6.7

Cumminpwr11 said:
So I have a 97 12v 5spd. I have a complete VP head sitting on a shelf, and access to a 6.7 long block for 1k. I understand porting my 12v head is the easiest way, but will all these parts, its hard not to think about a p-pump 24v, or 6.7.
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If you don't buy it can you post up the info on the 6.7?
 
Maybe look in the right places and get lucky? :D
Much of what I have I paid at least (sometimes more) a grand for, myself, plus I had to drive hours to get it, then I have to tear it down to be sure it's good enough to call a rebuildable core.

This is why I sell a short block for $1500.

Mark.
 
Mark, my 6.7 turned out to be shady. Do you have a 6.7 short block with no fire history? What do you consider a short block? I know some ppl have different opinions on what should come on a short block.
 
DO NOT BE SCARED OF BURNS!
I, personally, have never had a problem arise from one and noone I have sold them to has EVER complained of a problem!

I do have a unburned complete (timing case, cover, oil seal retainer and filter housing included) 6.7 short block.
My short blocks are the basics, block crank, rods, pistons and (usually) a cam with lifters.
I don't typically guarantee an oil cooler/housing or a timing case/cover or oil pan to be there (usually damaged during handling by other people), but they are on this one I mentioned.

Typically I strip off all of the non-essentials, such as broken/burned parts, sensors, covers, etc.

Mark.
 
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Needs a pan (if damaged I will get another one no problem), filter housing, rear seal retainer, at not sure on anything else I will have to ask my engine builder. Shipping to 45241? Work zip code since there is a dock and forklift. I know you said you were heading east. I am a hour north of Cincinnati Ohio. How are you coming?
 
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