2wd to 4x4 frame

Thought I would post this just incase anybody was curious about it or had any questions.

I started with a 1989 d150 2wd rclb with a 318ci

Front end is from a 1997 dodge ram 2500 rclb 5.9 CTD

Cuts look rough and the rust isn't perty but I smoothed it out and cleaned it up before I got welded.

Pretty much the old frame slipped into the new one. After I get it sand blasted I plan to put some more bracing in the connection and box it in a few more feet back.

that is wonderfully hack-tastic!

j.fondler said:

that is wonderfully hack-tastic!

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like I said it was cleaned up before welding up. Took the wheels off and got a few levels out, leveled the front axle, leveled the rear frame section. measured from center of the coils cross way to the rear body mount, came out a even 86in. took plenty of frame measurements from my personal truck and a buddies, fenders line up perfectly, frame is straight, whats the issue?

I do have some sand blasting and painting to do but that's cosmetics. I'm just trying to show how close the frames line up if someone was interested in doing something like this.

Why did you cut the front frame???

looks pretty good.

I've never tried to cut and paste a frame together, but I would think welding some bracing to keep each frame half square would have been a heck of a good idea.

oldestof11 said:

Why did you cut the front frame???

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I was just needing the axle and when I went to pick it up the guy just cut the front frame section off. rest of the truck was stripped. figured I would give it a shot and it lined up fairly well.

going to pull the axle soon to rebuild and re-gear it, adjustable control arms, new calipers, hubs ect. looks nasty because it has been sitting for a while but it will be all cleaned up better than new.

ill admit it does look rough in the pictures but its in the rough stages right now, mainly measured and tacked it today.

I just wanted to show you guys how close the frame sections are is all.

kleann said:

I've never tried to cut and paste a frame together, but I would think welding some bracing to keep each frame half square would have been a heck of a good idea.

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That's exactly what I'm going to do, just got late and I'm in for the day.

I did have 4 pieces of square stock tacked up on the frame rails when I measured and tacked the frame on.

if you don't like something or could of done it differently please share what it is and how you would of done it.

M249cummins said:

I did have 4 pieces of square stock tacked up on the frame rails when I measured and tacked the frame on.

if you don't like something or could of done it differently please share what it is and how you would of done it.

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Well thats one way of doing it! Most of the 2wd to 4wd conversions I've come across on these older trucks were done by just cutting off the 2wd front suspension and bolting on the leaf springs and front axle assembly from a similar truck to the existing frame, then trim the big cross-member under the engine for clearance. Even the bolt holes for the 4x4 suspension are there in the 2wd frame. The one thing you got by doing this the way you did is, you got a much better front suspension. That truck should ride much smoother (If you get rid of the Cummins coil springs) than leaf springs, but you didn't get a great front axle. Sure it is a one ton Dana 60, but this version is not as good as the ones you'd find in the older trucks. The axle is equipped with a CAD system which is not known to be dependable and requires a vacuum signal in order for it to get power to the front tires when you shift into 4wd. You should look into permanently locking in the CAD. The next problem area are the wheel bearing assembly, known as unit hubs. These things are generally junk. If you get water in them, you'll be replacing them within 6 months and they aren't cheap. You should consider doing a Dana 50 spindle swap, that way you get a better wheel bearing design and with the CAD permanently locked in, you can install good ol fashioned lock out hubs.

Ed

In my personal truck I got rid of the CAD which I'm going to do with this one as well.

I'm getting adjustable coilovers for the front and the rear is going to have a 4 link with coilovers as well, should be smooth.

M249cummins said:

In my personal truck I got rid of the CAD which I'm going to do with this one as well.

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Ah! The way this sounds, you're working on a customer truck….. Got it.

Concerning the Dodge Dana 60, I did this too. I stuck a Dana 60 out of a 3500 w/ V10 under my Dakota. Got rid of the CAD by replacing the two part axle shaft with a single 35 spline chro-mo axle shaft and did the spindle swap by replacing the unit hub, wheel bearing assay, with a spindle and hub off a Ford Dana 50 TTB, and stuck a 35 spline stub shaft in there too.

Ed

A few have put in the '86-'91 Ford Kingpin axle or the '92-'98(?) ball joint Ford axle.

From @ May of 2002 to end of 2500/3500 2nd gen production, Dana supplied Dodge with a Dana 60 that had no CAD unit, just a solid axle, however they tend to explode the NP241s, which weren't really meant to spin the front drive shaft at high speeds for long periods of time.

Even the NV271/273s tend to come apart after extended periods of this abuse, which is a shining example of why lock outs are your friend(s).

Mark.

RXT said:

Ah! The way this sounds, you're working on a customer truck….. Got it.

Concerning the Dodge Dana 60, I did this too. I stuck a Dana 60 out of a 3500 w/ V10 under my Dakota. Got rid of the CAD by replacing the two part axle shaft with a single 35 spline chro-mo axle shaft and did the spindle swap by replacing the unit hub, wheel bearing assay, with a spindle and hub off a Ford Dana 50 TTB, and stuck a 35 spline stub shaft in there too.

Ed

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Not a customers truck. Its just a vehicle I picked up from a junk yard with intentions of customizing over the next year or so. I'm not concerned about the d60. I have the Yukon CAD delete in my daily driver and no problems. its a street truck so being a low pinion isn't an issue, I also think kingpin vs non kingpin is a matter of preference imo, also having lockouts would be nice but the truck would be rarely driven enough to justify buying any.