Lost trailer

lorendiesel5.9 said:
Post #27 you forgot to specify you're only talking about RVs. And I quote:

It is in fact DOT regs that if your trailer came with them from factory they have to hooked up.
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OK genius, the thread AND the post is about 5th wheel RVs, so why should I have to specify? You name one RV maker who has chains on their 5th wheels. Just one. I won't hold my breath.
 
Things got heated... I don't know anything about DOT stuff so I'm just here for the lulz.
 
BRE said:
I don't know anything about DOT stuff....
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You ought to. Many people refer to DOT when talking about commercial regs, it is the "go to", when in fact DOT covers everyone. The FMCSA covers regs that are specific to commercial vehicles. Those trailers that come with chains aren't specific to commercial operations. If you don't have yours hooked up, you could get a ticket too.
 
never seen a 5th wheel that uses chains. anyone got pics? or a copy of the law saying they require chains?
 
GAmes said:
You ought to. Many people refer to DOT when talking about commercial regs, it is the "go to", when in fact DOT covers everyone. The FMCSA covers regs that are specific to commercial vehicles. Those trailers that come with chains aren't specific to commercial operations. If you don't have yours hooked up, you could get a ticket too.
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Nah. What in the world would I need to know anything about DOT for?
 
Mark Nixon said:
Most cheap 5th wheel hitch plates are only designed to pivot fore to aft, not side to side.
The nice, expensive, (read: heavy duty) ones are fully articulating.

Beware of some cheaper 5th wheel hitches!
ALWAYS check the weight ratings on them, I've seen a few with only a 12k rating, which aren't really designed for much more than a light RV trailer.

Now, most of the cheaper (even Reese) 5th wheel hitches I see use a locking, spring loaded latch/pawl, which can be either worn or ripped out by a simple incline move like you described.
These are not designed to be used repeatedly for heavy side inclines, as they will bind the kingpin against the lock bar, which causes the bar to bend and rip the latch/pawl assembly.

IMO, if you're hauling a multi-car trailer, or an equipment trailer, using the 5th wheel style hitch, no matter if it's fully articulating, or not, would be my absolute last choice.

BTW, per DOT regs, ANY trailer is REQUIRED to manufactured with safety chains, 5th, wheel, gooseneck, tagger, pintle, ALL are supposed to have safety chains.
If they don't and DOT snags you, it sits until you put approved ones on it.
If a trailer manufacturer is "making you" move these with no safety chains, they are not in compliance and you should refuse the job.

Mark.
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Your last statement only applies to trailer drawn from below/behind the frame rail from my understanding.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
dieselbeef said:
this thread derailed and crashed and burned............
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You are correct, so I extend my apologies to the OP. He knows he was legal, so I am at fault.

I have never used a Reese 5th whl hitch, so I'm not familiar with the jaws. My Husky hitch has an indicator that pushes out when the kingpin is fully seated, a visual on the jaw, and a pin in the handle pretty much insures it won't release. Either the Reese is faulty or you somehow high hitched it. Since it has happened twice I'm leaning towards a faulty hitch. Your only recourse is to prove the hitch failed, I'm not sure how you could do that. Perhaps a class action suit with the dozen other people who also experienced a failure.
 
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