Honing torque plate. Aluminum ?

QMFB

QMFB

Fastest Welder in Texas
Been seriously considering purchasing a torque plate. I'm in the middle of a rebuild on a 5.9 Common Rail, and am planning on a more serious build on one of my 6.7's next year... Anyway, I noticed Keating has the option of steel or aluminum. BHJ is steel only, ZRM is steel only, and CCR is aluminum only.
Now my thoughts are that aluminum would be much to ductile to evenly disperse force across the block. Even steel is more ductile than cast iron, but MUCH more rigid than aluminum.
So I'm looking for opinions/experience on this, as aluminum would be much lighter and easier to handle, ship, and store.
Just not convinced it would work as well, or even hold up to use as well.
 
My gut says aluminum would not be strong enough too. But it is VERY hard to bet against Keating he is a very sharp guy and I can't imagine him offering it if there was any chance it wouldn't work well.

Perhaps the aluminum one is designed for limited usage like what an individual would purchase for use on a build or two, while the steel one would be for something shops would purchase that would be used more frequently...

The best bet would be to speak to them directly and ask questions about why he offers the two different materials, explain your situation and likely usage and ask which he would suggest for you. I do not feel that he or anyone at his shop would steer you wrong or try to oversell you, from my experience with him.
 
I think I will place a call tomorrow... I definitely want one that lasts. I may only use it a few times myself, but after an extensive search all across south Texas, and not being able to find a machine shop with a Torque Plate, I figured I would be able to loan it out to anybody down here who is also looking for one.
 
4" ?!! Dammit man, you would need a crane to set that on a block ! Lol.
 
I'd make an aluminum one and press steel inserts in it if you are concerned that an all aluminum one wouldn't hold up. All you are trying to accomplish is putting stress into the block equivalent to what it would experience with studs torqued to spec. Aluminum would definitely be sufficient enough to achieve that goal, put a washer under the head of the bolt or under the nut prior to torqueing to distribute the load and it'll be fine. The torque plate doesn't need to be stiff, just flat. The deck should already be flat prior to honing anyway.
 
CCA says their aluminum plate has hardened steel inserts in it. Makes sense.
 
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The biggest using a torque plate does is gets the high spots out where the head bolts distort the bore when torqued. About any material able to withstand the bolt being torqued will do that just fine. I seen someone doing it using individual spacers on bolts, I'm not quite on board with that idea though.

I think to do it 100% it should be done with the head gasket and fire ring/o-ring (if applicable) that's going to be used.
 
i believe a torque plate is to simulate load on the bolt holes, so aluminum would work plus be easier to set up and whatnot.
 
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