Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper
If you have deep scrapes that need to come out, maybe some light color sanding on the clear coat to begin with, then you will need a rubbing compound. Gritty like a good pumice hand cleaner.
Next, go to a less abrasive compound. I know this one as "machine polish". It's not your final step, but really removes those swirl marks from the rubbing compound. Consistency of tooth paste.
Finally you want a hand glaze compound. Consistency of a watered down brown/tan looking hand soap. This will give a nice shine, all the scratches should come out nicely with this one, and car will look good under fluorescent lights.
Now you have a buffed surface with no contaminates on it. Apply a wax of your choice. I like to use a hand applied ceramic coat instead. Seems to last longer than a conventional wax.
I used this on my 14 chevy after some light buffing in a few areas and clay bared the whole truck. Applied over Christmas break of this year and the hydrophobic properties still exist and water beads up like I have never seen with wax.
https://exoforma.com/collections/cer...ray-coating-6h
So where do you find compounds? I purchase them from a paint supply store where we buy automotive paint, Tasco. The owners are very helpful when I ask for any sort of assistance or advice. They have the products that commercial body shops use. A good compound will be expensive. $40-$60ea. |
I picked this up
https://www.autozone.com/wash-cleane...6oz/164697_0_0
Amazon.com: MEGUIARS M0216 M2 Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner - 16 oz.: Automotive
Seems to do ok, I think I need a heavier cut, the hood has too many stone chips to do much good, thinking about just getting the hood painted eventually. It also looks like some sap damage has occurred. What happens with ceramic over stone chips? Really just looking to protect exposed metal.
Any ideas on the color match wax?