Cummins SD wires VP

I've gotten several PM's on this. Thought I'd just post it for everyone. My truck was an 04 6.0 Auto. Keep this in mind.

CHARGING SYSTEM

I'll start with the Voltage regulator. Unless your running a CR you will need a voltage regulator. Destroked offers a one wire alternator, just keep in mind when it goes out your screwed until they ship you a new one. A Ford style voltage regulator is under $20 at any parts house and simple to install and allows a stock dodge alternator to be used.

The part number for it is. 9PZ10316A, E2PZ10316A, GR433, 544A, 540B


The regualter has four prongs (IASF) but only use three ASF.

First find a spot to mount the regulater.Be sure the regulater is mounted grounded good before you turn the key on.

A-goes to the +battery cable on the alternator (Large post)

S-goes to the ignition switch or wire thanks hot when the key is on

F- goes to one of the smaller post on the alternator (it doesent matter which one)

I mounted mine right above the washer fluid jug on the passenger fender. Utilized the factory ground to ground it.
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Looking at the first picture you see ISAF from left to right. I is not used.

S is the pink wire in pic 2 that runs to the large hot alternaor post

A is the red wire that runs to the vacuum pump motor in pic 3

F is the green wire in pic 2 that runs to the plug in black alternator connector

The blue wire runs from the black alternator connector to the chassis ground in pic 1. It does not matter what side of the plug blue and green wires go into.

The red wire connects to vacuum pump motor dead center of pic 3. The motor is energized when the key is in the "run" position. The PCM grounds the motor to run.

I can't remember the wire color on the vacuum pump motor that is hot. Grab a test light and check it.

KEY HOT and START WIRES


Ok, I took the easy way out. THERE ARE NO FUSES ON THESE CIRCUTS pay close attention to your wires and routing

I did this to avoid the park/neutral/clutch safety crap. This is an absolutely direct connection. There are wires under the hood to connect too, I didn't bother looking for.

Pulling back the knee bolster under the column you will see the PDC (fuse box) on the left, remove the 4x 10mm bolts holding it to the dash and nudge it out of the way. It only moves about 4" with the wire slack.

Looking on the steering column you will see the large white connector that is the ignition switch. Should look like this.

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Large 10ga green or teal wire is the START wire. Connect this to your starter and/or AFC

Smaller orange white tracer is the RUN wire, ignition hot, whatever.

If you are going to use those wire splices like I did, be sure to file out the centers to allow them to not cut parent wires. I also soldered them before reinstalling the plastic covers.

VP WIRING

There are 2 engine harnesses, one with a single body plug and one that has 2.

The VP has independent power that needs to be supplied by a simple relay. Theses relays have 4 posts (some have 5, if so disregard post 87a)

Post 30______constant hot

Post 86______brown and white from the engine harness

Post 85______ground

Post 87______Red/white or Red green from the engine


Single plug

VP44 relay control_____Brown/white tracer______________relay post 86

VP44 Power__________ Red/white tracer________________relay post 87

ECM power___________Heave gauge red/ white tracer______Constant hot

ECM/sensor grounds___4x black/brown tracer____________GROUND

Key on ECM__________light green/black tracer____________ignition hot

Grid heater__________yellow/black tracer and orang/black tracer____small posts on dodge heater solenoids


2 plug body harness


Plug with white lever:

VP44 relay control_________brown/white tracer_____________relay post 86

VP44 power______________Red/green tracer______________ relay post 87

ECM power______________Large red/white tracer___________Constant hot

Key on ECM______________light green/black tracer_________ignition wire key hot

Black plug

ECM and sensor grounds________Black/ brown tracer________GROUND

Grid heater________yellow/black tracer and orange/black tracer_____small posts on dodge heater solenoids




00-02 engines need to retain the WHITE/ORANE wire from the harness. This gives a speed signal to the ECM so it will fuel.

Looking at the FORD PCM from the TOP you will see the chassis plug on the far right. The the firewall end of the plug will have Gray wire with a black tracer. Attach the White/orange wire from the dodge to this wire. DO NOT CUT THE GRAY/BACK WIRE!!!!! SOLDER ONLY

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Also, there is a large black Cable that pops out of the engine harness near the VP plug. Its the alternator charge cable. Attach to a hot battery side. Near the alternator you will find a similar cable with a brown tracer. Ground it to the frame

FORD ENGINE HARNESS WIRING

I can't remember the wire colors, nor do I want too.


Locate the following, remove everything except the plugs and their corresponding wires.

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH___1 wire

Water temp sensor_______2 wires

AC pressure switch_______2 or 4 depending on the model

AC clutch control_________2 wires, remove the FORD plug and insert the wires in the dodge plug so it will attach to the AC compressor

Cam sensor AND Crank sensor wires, they will be wrapped in black foil. Refer to your conversion kit for install on them.


Should look like the one on the right when trimmed
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And this is your leftovers
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One thing I need to add for those running A/C

On the Dodge A/C compressor harness you will notice that it has a non split wire loom around the wires.

Cut that apart and you will then see that both wires are heatshrunk together.

Cut that apart and you will see a diode connecting them. Remove it.

Re insulate and cover the wires.


If you don't preform this step the A/C clutch fuse will constantly blow and you will not have A/C

HOSES

Hehehehehe Good luck

Here is an upper hose that will fits after you trim one end off.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Curved-Radiator-Hose-Dayco_19590483-P_13_R|GRPBELTAMS____


Here is the stock Dodge lower you will need, also needs cut.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Curved-Radiator-Hose-Dayco_19590139-P_1064_R|GRPBELTAMS____


Here is what you will need to make to clear everything else:

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Need all 2"id

2x 90* standard radius

1x 90 short radius

1x 45* standard radius

2" long piece of 2"id pipe.


You will also need a 2" x 3/4" x 2" tee to make the overflow return to the lower hose, or weld a nipple on the steel one.

holy smokes theres a striped poisenous snake coming out of your engineLOL. pretty interesting though.

Thanks for the very useful info too.

Joe

subscribing. Great write-up, definitely gonna come in handy. Started my conversion, thanks!!!