biggy238
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Head work
- Thread starter biggy238
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Kick Start
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When it warms up.
I only speak the truth. When she gets running again we can put her in the thread "fastest for the cheapest".
I only speak the truth. When she gets running again we can put her in the thread "fastest for the cheapest".
murphy41
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I posted this over on Ghostmans thread too. But this will give you a little more of an idea of how much more you can go. The only water jacket you really have to worry about on the intake bowls, is the one behind the swirl ramp. And you've left yours so you should be good there. I cut my bowls back in the head quite a bit too, and made the bowls and swirl ramp a little bit deeper as well. Ill see if I can get a picture of my exhuast bowl to give you an idea how much more you can go.
Also keep in mind, I dont have an intake plenum.
Also keep in mind, I dont have an intake plenum.
Drothgeb
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Here's some pics I posted a while back on CF.
Here's a couple of before and after. As you can see there's a lot of excess material just under the valve seat.
Most of the excess around the perimeter has been removed. And, I've gone down in the bowl and opened it up. All of the work shown is after using the carbide bit and before it's polished with a sanding wheel.
Here's a section through the exhaust. It gives you a good idea of where the water jackets are, and what to avoid. There green area is metal to be removed.
Here's a side by side before and after exhaust port. This head was actually ported a little a couple of years ago, so a stock head is even tighter than the before one here.
Here's a good view of the intake after porting. Again, this still needs to be hit with a sanding wheel to smooth it out.
Now the stock exhaust runner is pretty open, so it just needs some cleaning up. But the stock intake runner is pretty tight. Looking through the plenum here, you can see what I mean.
Here's after a little work (still needs some more though)
Here's a couple of slices through the intake. They are not in exactly the same location, but it gives you a good idea of the metal that needs to be removed.
Now some of you are thinking that's great on the 4 runners you can reach. But what about the 2 on the ends. Well, I drill 2 holes in the top of the plenum that let you reach where you need to get to. I then tap the head for a 3/4"npt plug to seal the openings.
You just need to get one of these carbide bits with a 6" shank.
With one of those I can reach every surface in the intake runner without milling it off. And once a couple of the humps and bumps are cleaned out of the stock plenum, I think it works as good or better than the runner type intakes.
Well, that's the basics. Just remember, a lot of the runner walls are only a little over a 1/4" thick, so don't get carried away without knowing what's behind it. I've got this old head that I sliced up and, I drilled a bunch of holes in the slices too. It's pretty handy to have around for reference.
Here's a couple of before and after. As you can see there's a lot of excess material just under the valve seat.
Most of the excess around the perimeter has been removed. And, I've gone down in the bowl and opened it up. All of the work shown is after using the carbide bit and before it's polished with a sanding wheel.
Here's a section through the exhaust. It gives you a good idea of where the water jackets are, and what to avoid. There green area is metal to be removed.
Here's a side by side before and after exhaust port. This head was actually ported a little a couple of years ago, so a stock head is even tighter than the before one here.
Here's a good view of the intake after porting. Again, this still needs to be hit with a sanding wheel to smooth it out.
Now the stock exhaust runner is pretty open, so it just needs some cleaning up. But the stock intake runner is pretty tight. Looking through the plenum here, you can see what I mean.
Here's after a little work (still needs some more though)
Here's a couple of slices through the intake. They are not in exactly the same location, but it gives you a good idea of the metal that needs to be removed.
Now some of you are thinking that's great on the 4 runners you can reach. But what about the 2 on the ends. Well, I drill 2 holes in the top of the plenum that let you reach where you need to get to. I then tap the head for a 3/4"npt plug to seal the openings.
You just need to get one of these carbide bits with a 6" shank.
With one of those I can reach every surface in the intake runner without milling it off. And once a couple of the humps and bumps are cleaned out of the stock plenum, I think it works as good or better than the runner type intakes.
Well, that's the basics. Just remember, a lot of the runner walls are only a little over a 1/4" thick, so don't get carried away without knowing what's behind it. I've got this old head that I sliced up and, I drilled a bunch of holes in the slices too. It's pretty handy to have around for reference.
Last edited:
biggy238
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Here's some pics I posted a while back on CF.
Here's a couple of before and after. As you can see there's a lot of excess material just under the valve seat.
Most of the excess around the perimeter has been removed. And, I've gone down in the bowl and opened it up. All of the work shown is after using the carbide bit and before it's polished with a sanding wheel.
Here's a section through the exhaust. It gives you a good idea of where the water jackets are, and what to avoid. There green area is metal to be removed.
Here's a side by side before and after exhaust port. This head was actually ported a little a couple of years ago, so a stock head is even tighter than the before one here.
Here's a good view of the intake after porting. Again, this still needs to be hit with a sanding wheel to smooth it out.
Now the stock exhaust runner is pretty open, so it just needs some cleaning up. But the stock intake runner is pretty tight. Looking through the plenum here, you can see what I mean.
Here's after a little work (still needs some more though)
Here's a couple of slices through the intake. They are not in exactly the same location, but it gives you a good idea of the metal that needs to be removed.
Now some of you are thinking that's great on the 4 runners you can reach. But what about the 2 on the ends. Well, I drill 2 holes in the top of the plenum that let you reach where you need to get to. I then tap the head for a 3/4"npt plug to seal the openings.
You just need to get one of these carbide bits with a 6" shank.
With one of those I can reach every surface in the intake runner without milling it off. And once a couple of the humps and bumps are cleaned out of the stock plenum, I think it works as good or better than the runner type intakes.
Well, that's the basics. Just remember, a lot of the runner walls are only a little over a 1/4" thick, so don't get carried away without knowing what's behind it. I've got this old head that I sliced up and, I drilled a bunch of holes in the slices too. It's pretty handy to have around for reference.
I forgot to thank you for this, for myself and for anyone else that comes across it. Funny thing is that i looked at ways like yours to access the other intake cathedrals.
Monkey Fist Rage
biggy238
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97rada
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Just to learn. Would rather post watching so I can read the thread again and not have to deal with finding it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WUnderwood
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Helluva post, Drothgeb
biggy238
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Aaahhh.
Has anyone seen the shafts from the oil pump get into the front cover?
I will have to get a picture of this. It was like this in 04 when i killed the KDP
Monkey Fist Rage
97rada
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There is always talk about over porting and loosing swirl. Is your porting more of all out race or something that keeps low end velocityHere's some pics I posted a while back on CF.
Here's a couple of before and after. As you can see there's a lot of excess material just under the valve seat.
Most of the excess around the perimeter has been removed. And, I've gone down in the bowl and opened it up. All of the work shown is after using the carbide bit and before it's polished with a sanding wheel.
Here's a section through the exhaust. It gives you a good idea of where the water jackets are, and what to avoid. There green area is metal to be removed.
Here's a side by side before and after exhaust port. This head was actually ported a little a couple of years ago, so a stock head is even tighter than the before one here.
Here's a good view of the intake after porting. Again, this still needs to be hit with a sanding wheel to smooth it out.
Now the stock exhaust runner is pretty open, so it just needs some cleaning up. But the stock intake runner is pretty tight. Looking through the plenum here, you can see what I mean.
Here's after a little work (still needs some more though)
Here's a couple of slices through the intake. They are not in exactly the same location, but it gives you a good idea of the metal that needs to be removed.
Now some of you are thinking that's great on the 4 runners you can reach. But what about the 2 on the ends. Well, I drill 2 holes in the top of the plenum that let you reach where you need to get to. I then tap the head for a 3/4"npt plug to seal the openings.
You just need to get one of these carbide bits with a 6" shank.
With one of those I can reach every surface in the intake runner without milling it off. And once a couple of the humps and bumps are cleaned out of the stock plenum, I think it works as good or better than the runner type intakes.
Well, that's the basics. Just remember, a lot of the runner walls are only a little over a 1/4" thick, so don't get carried away without knowing what's behind it. I've got this old head that I sliced up and, I drilled a bunch of holes in the slices too. It's pretty handy to have around for reference.
Drothgeb
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I try to maximize the swirl. My goal is to keep it as streetable as possible, and still make big hp.
I was mainly trying to give everyone an idea of where the water passages are, but there is a lot more too it than the pictures. It really helps to cut a head apart and be able to see every nook and cranny.
My technique for porting the intake is a little different too. No point in removing the plenum and spending $$$$, if you can get to most of it it by drilling a couple of holes.
I was mainly trying to give everyone an idea of where the water passages are, but there is a lot more too it than the pictures. It really helps to cut a head apart and be able to see every nook and cranny.
My technique for porting the intake is a little different too. No point in removing the plenum and spending $$$$, if you can get to most of it it by drilling a couple of holes.