removing p pump

i have to take off my inj pump to be sent off to be rebuilt. ive never done it before any tricks or anything i need to watch out for? what about the fuel in the lines? assuming the pump is just bolted to the block?

It's pretty straight forward but there are a couple of hidden bolts that are a little challenging and the one nut down low between the pump and the block at the gear case is likewise a challenge.

Remove the injector lines as a unit (keep the clamps on), of course, and the fuel supply line completely. Remove the overflow valve on the return line at the pump. Remove the fuel shut-off solenoid and the 3 small bolts that hold the throttle linkage assembly from the side of the pump.

You'll want to retain your timing, so rotate the engine until you find TDC. You can use the timing pin under the pump to find it. Now you'll want to pin your pump. Remove the AFC housing and the torque plate. Then use a turkey baster or something equivalent to suck all the oil you can out of the governor housing. If you don't do this, when you remove the plug on the side to pin the pump you'll get about a cup or so of oil out of the hole. So suck it out first or prepare to catch it in an appropriate container when you remove the plug or expect it to dump down on the power steering pump and on to the ground/floor.

This plug is on the side about 2/3 down at the forward end of the governor housing. It is forward of the governor spring plug. When you remove it, there should be a small tool inside that you take out, turn around and put back in the plug. The tool will have a notch in the end like the nock on an arrow (bow and arrow). That notch engages a tab inside the governor housing that rotates with the pump. If you're at TDC and your timing is stock you should see the tab but you'll need a flashlight and mirror to see it through the hole. Turning this tool around and reinstalling the plug with the notch engaging the tab pins the pump at stock timing assuming you're at TDC.

Now you'll need a gear puller to pop the gear off the pump shaft. Remove your oil fill tube to get to that. You'll need a 1-3/16" socket to remove the shaft bolt and be prepared to retorque the nut to at least 145 ft-lbs.

Start removing the 15 mm (I think) nuts that hold the pump to the gear case. The lower one between the pump and block will need a long extension with a wobble end. I've used 2, one short and one long. This one is more of a trick to reinstall than remove, of course.

There's a small bolt under the pump that screws into a bracket on the block. That one is tricky to see. There may also be a small one - 8mm I think - that holds either the fuel return or oil line (can't remember which, but it goes between the pump and the block) to the back of the governor housing and it is installed pointing up. You can't really see it, you have to feel for it.

Once all these nuts, bolts, and the gear are removed the pump will pull straight back but it can be a bit tough to pop it loose. And it will be heavy. A second set of hands can be useful to move things out of the way and/or help support it. Once it comes loose the back end drops just a little then continue back so the shaft can clear the gear case, then up and out.

When you get it back it should be pinned at proper timing. Whatever you do, don't you dare forget to turn the tool around to disengage the tab before you ever rotate the pump!!! But you leave it in place until the pump is reinstalled, the gear is put back on and the nut torqued to spec. Before installing the pump make sure the tapered shaft is clean (use brake cleaner) and the inside of the gear hub is likewise clean. Otherwise your timing may slip.

Sorry for the long post, but that covers most of it.

-Jay

Im curious. I never pulled a p-pump off before so forgive me if this is a stupid question. Why do you need to pin the pump if you are pulling it and sending it to a shop? Dont they re-pin it at what ever timing you want after its on the stand? This is assuming you pulled it at TDC.
Also if you pin it before removal what happens if your not a stock timing? Just rotate the pump till you can engage the tab?

Not at all a stupid question. The shop can't, or can't easily, set the timing on the pump to something different and re-pin it without opening up the govenor housing and re-indexing the tab to something other than stock, as I understand it. The local shop did that on mine and set it to 16.5 degrees when I had mine repaired. (I've since bumped timing to 18.5 degrees, so I have to compensate for that when I remove the pump).

The shop will re-pin the pump so you know its at "proper" timing when you get it back. Otherwise, you'd have to figure it out by using the dial indicator on the #1 plunger. So if you remove it with the truck at TDC and pin it when you remove it, you'll get it back pinned at set timing and theoretically there's no need to reset the timing. This assumes stock timing.

But if you're not at stock timing, yes you can rotate the engine until the pump can be pinned, then mark your damper so that if the engine rotates a little from doing other work, you can get it back to where it was when you pull the pump. When the shop returns the pump, you just check your mark and reinstall the pump.

-Jay

The 8mm hidden bolt is for the fuel return line if I remember right. It's the trickiest to find. Also, when removing the pump from the timing housing use a pry bar to make your life easier, just be easy with it and you won't hurt anything. I like extensions and a swivel socket for accessing the 15mm nuts.

During reinstallation of the 15mm nuts electrical tape to hold the 15mm nuts in the socket works well for me until you can place them and screw them in on the studs.

If it hasn't been said take the fuel canister/filter cover and filter off to allow the governor housing to be positioned down and pull the pump out with the pump shaft pointed upward coming out first (this is done by moving the pump back down putting the governor housing in the position where the fuel canister was). Take the AFC cover off prior to removal also. Smokem pointed out some of the above for me and it was a great help!

I don't bother with pinning the pump but I have a timing kit. If you don't have the timing kit then you need to pin it. Good luck! It's really not that hard at all.

So it's ok to leave the timing pin thing in while you torque the pump gear nut to 165 lbs? The engine will try to turn over before you reach this torque and if it does, you just bent your timing pin in the pump...

I thought you should only tighten the pump gear nut to 50 lbs or so then flip the timing pin alignment tool over before the final torque?

Very good advice to pull the AFC and fuel filter to get the pump out.

Also, if you don't remove the 8mm bolt holding the fuel return line on, you must remove the hose clamp where it transitions to rubber hose which is hard to remove and even harder to get back on...

I would never try to torque the timing gear nut while having the timing pin engaged but that's me. I don't really use that thing anyway but if I had to GUESS i'd think the plastic retaining tool would break before the pin would bend in the pump.

Got-torque - you're right, don't take the pump gear nut to full torque before unpinning the pump.

Also, watch out for the oil pressure sending unit under the pump. If you tip the pump up too high and it slides down it can snap off the sender (ask me how I know).

Also, cover the driver's side battery so you don't arc across the posts when you set it down to rest. A long socket extension and swivel head 15mm make the 4 pump bolts easy.

the little bolt on the bottom that holds the return to the pump is not and will not ever be back down there. It reeally does not even need it. Dont worry about putting it back in unless you are the very very picky type of person.

Lance

i torque the gear to 70 ft lbs with pin in then put a big wratchet on the crank to hold pump from spinning with the pin removed