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Old 05-27-2009, 01:01 AM   #1
Opie
 
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The ease of increasing clamp load.

Been testing a new product that increasing head clamp load. If all goes well there maybe yet another new product out sometime in mid July that increases clamp load almost 20 percent with the same exsisting head stud torque.

If that still isn't enough help... After recently buying a set of 625 head studs it looks like IE can afford to make 718 head studs. They will be stronger than 625's for almost the same cost.
 
Old 05-27-2009, 01:15 AM   #2
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Oh hell yeah!
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:48 AM   #3
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Right on. Need a test bunny I'm your guy.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:03 AM   #4
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625's already have that 12mm hole at the razors edge of the threads holding in the block. Yet I managed to break one.

I'd offer a hela strong 14mm as well, and I'll take the first set.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:14 AM   #5
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any idea om my price?
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie View Post
Been testing a new product that increasing head clamp load. If all goes well there maybe yet another new product out sometime in mid July that increases clamp load almost 20 percent with the same exsisting head stud torque.
Care to elaborate a bit on this?
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
625's already have that 12mm hole at the razors edge of the threads holding in the block. Yet I managed to break one.

I'd offer a hela strong 14mm as well, and I'll take the first set.
9/16's
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie View Post
Been testing a new product that increasing head clamp load. If all goes well there maybe yet another new product out sometime in mid July that increases clamp load almost 20 percent with the same exsisting head stud torque.

If that still isn't enough help... After recently buying a set of 625 head studs it looks like IE can afford to make 718 head studs. They will be stronger than 625's for almost the same cost.


Sounds awesome!
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:32 AM   #9
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Not even close to wrapping up testing right now but yes rolling size 9/16" isn't a problem provided no outside projects derail this one right now. As for the threads in the block already on the verge of coming out that is something that I can not confirm one way or the other right now but seriously doubt. As if it where true it would happen after the engine got to full heat/operating temps. Imagine how many of the guys that torq to 160 cold would have pulled their block threads out already if this was true.
 
Old 05-29-2009, 12:43 AM   #10
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opie always staying ahead of the game. congrats
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:52 PM   #11
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Keep up the good work! As much as I have always been a strong supporter of ARP, these coming from you would make me switch.

Paul
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:44 PM   #12
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Will do Paul, I wouldn't release them if they are not stronger. I will try to post videos of testing.
 
Old 05-30-2009, 09:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie View Post
Not even close to wrapping up testing right now but yes rolling size 9/16" isn't a problem provided no outside projects derail this one right now. As for the threads in the block already on the verge of coming out that is something that I can not confirm one way or the other right now but seriously doubt. As if it where true it would happen after the engine got to full heat/operating temps. Imagine how many of the guys that torq to 160 cold would have pulled their block threads out already if this was true.
My 625s are torqued to 160 cold. No problems.
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:50 PM   #14
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The only reason you would pull the threads out of the block is from bottoming the stud out in the block. We have torqued 625s to 180 with no problems.
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:09 PM   #15
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how do you know that when you tighten the nut on top of the stud that the stud is not turning with the nut untill it bottoms out. Only reason I ask this is because I do tower cranes for a living the tower connection points use a 45mm stud with a nut top and botom. When torquing these studs which are new hardware with gn paste torque agent, 1/2 the time the top nut turns with the hytorq gun and the other 1/2 the top nut and the stud turn and a wrench is needed to hold the roll to acheive torque value. And if the studs do turn with the nut till they botom out how would you stop it from happening?
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:45 PM   #16
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I use 30w oil on the block side of the stud and moly lube on the nut side, install stud untill it bottoms out then back off half a turn, spin nut down untill it meets the head while holding stud with allen wrench if necessary, then torque. this will leave adequate room if the stud does turn some while torquing. This may go against recomended instructions but I have been using this procedure for years on gas and diesel studs, with no problems.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:28 PM   #17
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I just lined up all the 625's to one side, (at least half a turn to get there or better).
Then used a wrench and allen wrench to hold the stud and snugged them up some in torque sequence, then began torquing them, and made sure all the 625's stayed in place.
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:25 PM   #18
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There will be a lot of soon to be common knowledge about this subject coming from this thread.
 
Old 07-09-2009, 01:14 AM   #19
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Any Updates

I have a set of twins waiting to be installed, is there some new news about these studs, just don't want to blow a hg right now.
Thanx
 
Old 07-09-2009, 01:17 AM   #20
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Anxiously awaiting what you have in store Opie. In the mean time I will just wrap some ratchet straps around my engine and crank em down tight
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