reg cab chasis setup

[red dodge2]

im looking for pointers or tips that could help me get my reg cab long bed pull truck to hook up a little harder, i run a decent set of traction bars now that goes from right under the cab to the axle, adjustable stops, and a regular reece hitch slid forward. it seems to hook good now but i think it could be a little better. any info is appreciated. thanks!

[zstroken]

Extend the frame....

[scott 06]

Gotta make the chassis plant your front tires hard ill shoot you a text tomorrow

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[cumins01]

watching this. I also have a reg cab and can't seem to get it to hook no mater what I do.

[red dodge2]

Originally Posted by zstroken

Extend the frame....

thats the plan after this season if nothing else works, evan smoot ran his for years and stayed up top though. im sure hoping i find something that work a little better, really dont wanna swap everything to a extended cab frame.

[Badbrad3701]

watching

[cu2500]

No help from anybody?

[bubba2400]

How much weight is hung on the front end? Where exactly is the hitch mounted to the frame? How far out is the hook point from where the hitch is mounted to the frame?

[PTPULLINCHASSIS]

.....

[fairallbilt]

Bump for ya..im interested..we need some help!!

[red dodge2]

Hung about 1300lbs on front. Hitch is slid forward as far as rules allow. 46" from rear end to end of hitch, i will have to double check.

[kjpcummins]

Originally Posted by PTPULLINCHASSIS

.....

Can I have some of that?

[dodge79]

I have about 1850 on the front of mine going to gutt the inside of the cab to get more up front I think my hich is 44 from center line of rear axle

[cumins01]

Jason helped me last year and it made a difference. But that's my truck, since all trucks are different.

[Valair1]

Not to derail your thread but, Is there anyway to plant the front end with a solid suspension and no draw bar?

[bubba2400]

Originally Posted by Valair1

Not to derail your thread but, Is there anyway to plant the front end with a solid suspension and no draw bar?

How much do you want to unload the rear end at the same time?

It's not so much how you "plant" the front end but how much less you can make the front end rise up when taking off. This is why the longer wheelbase trucks are a little easier to keep the front from rising because of the longer lever available with those chassis.

[Mountainman234]

You need less spring rate in the front = less force pushing the nose up. Think about it like lever, mass, and fulcrum. The rear x is the fulcrum, the sled is the mass, and all the truck including the hitch is the lever. Each one plays a different role. There is plenty to say about all of them but the basics are: get as much weight as far forward as you can, make the lever as sturdy as you can (there are differing opinions on chassis flex) this includes the hitch, and manage the unsprung weight the best you can. With less spring rate or adjustable coil covers you can better manage how the nose lifts and how it transfers weight. The higher the nose lifts the more hitch height you give up. There is a fine line here. If you don't transfer any weight you will hop and eventually break or break traction. Transfer too much and your giving up valuable hitch height and giving up traction. Ideally as you go down the track the weight of the nose should transfer to the rear x as well as weight from the sled. Effectively increasing the ground pressure 2-3 times the actual truck weight. Hence the dual tires. It also helps to get the weight transfer to happen as soon as possible. This is where more power comes into play. It let's you transfer weight with its force quickly and then let's you use that force to gain momentum from the increase in traction.

[bigstacks95]

Also looking for suggestions. My truck last season weighed 5800 lbs, I had 1500 out front and the rest on the passenger floor of the cab and the bed. This year I'm looking to switch to solid rear suspension and a drawbar. Anyone have tips for solid suspension setup? or just weld it in? Pinion angle? Our rules are PPL Based.

[Mountainman234]

Get the rest of that weight all the way out front at the max. Weld it in, bolt it in what ever your the most comfortable doing just make it as strong as you can make it light. Weight you add there takes away from the nose. Weight transfer and chassis setup are far more crucial and precise on a short wheelbase as opposed to a long wheel base which is more forgiving.

[red dodge2]

My hitch is 44" from center of rear to end off hook point.