Breaking axle bolts - Page 2 - Competition Diesel.Com

zstroken · 08-02-2010, 04:30 PM

They aren't coming lose, they are sheering off. I lost one set on saturday, pulled a set out of another axle, put them in, and sheered them on the first hook, down at the end of the track.

*Chris Tobin* · 08-02-2010, 04:39 PM

Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer!

Wylie513 · 08-02-2010, 04:40 PM

Have you tryed hardend bolts yet like a custom order at fastenal

kmdmax · 08-02-2010, 04:59 PM

Broke the bolts all the time, arp studs are holding strong.

smokincrail · 08-02-2010, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Tobin

Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer!

This isn't drag racing where you can drive back and put new bolts in and make another pass. You get one, maybe two runs per event. You shouldn't break an axle shaft if buy good parts.

zstroken · 08-02-2010, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Tobin

Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer!

The problem with busting the bolts is the shock load it puts on the rest of the system. Build it not to break, eliminate the fuses.

*Chris Tobin* · 08-02-2010, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokincrail

This isn't drag racing where you can drive back and put new bolts in and make another pass. You get one, maybe two runs per event. You shouldn't break an axle shaft if buy good parts.

Good point!

Quote:

Originally Posted by zstroken

The problem with busting the bolts is the shock load it puts on the rest of the system. Build it not to break, eliminate the fuses.

Another good point!

Talk to the guys at Branik Motorsports Branik Motorsports, they build some serious axles for serious rock crawlers and rock racers. They know how to build stuff to take serious abuse and live to tell about it! Talk about shock loads the stuff these guys put their rigs through is crazy! They have the capability of machining 300M axles for any length immaginable and really know their stuff. They may have some suggestions for you. I have turned a few other pullers on to them and they have been happy as far as I know. I know they will be doing some axle work on my project truck! Ask for Stan or Brandon (father and son owners of the company) and tell them that Chris Tobin told you to call. They will take good care of you and I think their prices are pretty darn good too!

zstroken · 08-02-2010, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Tobin

Good point!

Another good point!

Talk to the guys at Branik Motorsports Branik Motorsports, they build some serious axles for serious rock crawlers and rock racers. They know how to build stuff to take serious abuse and live to tell about it! Talk about shock loads the stuff these guys put their rigs through is crazy! They have the capability of machining 300M axles for any length immaginable and really know their stuff. They may have some suggestions for you. I have turned a few other pullers on to them and they have been happy as far as I know. I know they will be doing some axle work on my project truck! Ask for Stan or Brandon (father and son owners of the company) and tell them that Chris Tobin told you to call. They will take good care of you and I think their prices are pretty darn good too!

Already have the driveline built about as much as you can, 300M 37 spline, 1480 ujoints,, big axles in the front, heavy duty cover, etc, etc.

*Chris Tobin* · 08-02-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zstroken

Already have the driveline built about as much as you can, 300M 37 spline, 1480 ujoints,, big axles in the front, heavy duty cover, etc, etc.

But since you are still having problems, give Stan a call tomorrow and maybe he has a solution for you... Can't hurt! He really is a great guy!!! And he will be doing more and more stuff with the diesel industry in the future...

01PPUMP · 08-02-2010, 05:46 PM

Dan I should have my new upgraded bolts tomorrow, all of the ones that did not break on mine have the threads flatend out where the axle was hitting. It was only a matter of time.

zstroken · 08-02-2010, 05:47 PM

Yea you stole my bolts!

01PPUMP · 08-02-2010, 05:52 PM

joelc79 · 08-02-2010, 06:00 PM

so i had a 95 f350 dually with 200k+ on the odometer, i sheared the bolts about 0nce every 3 to 4 months. I towed alot and beat the chit out of it. The rearend was makin some noise one day so i rebuilt it with new ring and pinion, bearings, etc... Never had the problem again. There was tons of slop in the mesh of the gears, hub bearings were always good.
Just my experience, even though its ford junk.

zstroken · 08-02-2010, 06:01 PM

When the thermometer drops below 100 this evening I will go out and pull the cover.

*GOT-Torque* · 08-02-2010, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zstroken

When the thermometer drops below 100 this evening I will go out and pull the cover.

It's rediculous isn't it?

I'm going to go pull my front ARB out right now, here's what weather.com says...

Sunny Temperature:93°F
Feels Like: 118°
Details:Extreme heat index. Outdoor exposure should be limited.

dmaxlover · 08-03-2010, 09:03 PM

I would start with checking the holes in your axle flanges. If some of the holes are ovaled out, they would be loaded unevenly causing 1 to break then the next.... And so on.
You could swap axles from side to side and see if you have the same results, I bet you don't.
If the flanges look ok, go to the hardware store and pic up a set of socket head cap screws. If the size is 1/2"-13, torque them up to 90 ft/lbs with some sort of lube, ie anti-seize in a star pattern until they are all tighted evenly.
You aren't just relying on the shear capacity of the bolt, but also the fiction from clamp load between the axle and hub which turns out to be approximately 88000 lbs of clamp load.

8UPRACIN · 08-03-2010, 09:45 PM

I had the same problem with mine backing out and popping the head off too. I went down to the local CAT dealer and got some of their HD bolts and haven't had an issue in 3 years. I was replacing them every couple months just racing around town and beating on the truck hard. Chris

zstroken · 08-03-2010, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8UPRACIN

I had the same problem with mine backing out and popping the head off too. I went down to the local CAT dealer and got some of their HD bolts and haven't had an issue in 3 years. I was replacing them every couple months just racing around town and beating on the truck hard. Chris

Thanks all for the advice. The axles don't have 10 hooks on them, the flanges better be straight.
I am using some cat bolts 170000 PSI tensile.

Ben46a · 08-04-2010, 08:54 AM

Cat bolts are where its at, the may be stamped grade 8 but they are stronger than anything else out there.

zstroken · 08-04-2010, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben46a

Cat bolts are where its at, the may be stamped grade 8 but they are stronger than anything else out there.

These are supposed to be grade 12.

08-02-2010, 04:30 PM	#21
zstroken Name: zstroken Title: For $$$ your name here Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Western Michigan(by the lake) Member`s Gallery Posts: 23,151	They aren't coming lose, they are sheering off. I lost one set on saturday, pulled a set out of another axle, put them in, and sheered them on the first hook, down at the end of the track. __________________ 2008 4x4 Megacab, 68RFE 97 Dodge gone.... 24V P-Pump Mafia member #1(retired) Thanks to Mumau Diesel, Goerend Transmission, Northeast Diesel Service!

08-02-2010, 04:39 PM	#22
Chris Tobin Name: Chris Tobin Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Dayton, TN Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,662	Carefull what you wish for, it is probably better to break an axle bolt or two than it is to break an axle or two... It is always best if the weakest link is an inexpensive part that you can have extras on the trailer! __________________ Chris Tobin Editor--Ultimate Diesel Builder's Guide Freelance Editor and Photographer Working with DIESEL WORLD, DIRT SPORTS, MUSCLE CAR POWER & STREET TRUCKS magazines tobinemail@aol.com I might be able to help get you in a mag. Custom poster size photos available. PM or email for info.

08-02-2010, 05:46 PM	#30
01PPUMP Name: 01PPUMP Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2006 Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,164	Dan I should have my new upgraded bolts tomorrow, all of the ones that did not break on mine have the threads flatend out where the axle was hitting. It was only a matter of time. __________________ Northeast Diesel Service

08-02-2010, 05:47 PM	#31
zstroken Name: zstroken Title: For $$$ your name here Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Western Michigan(by the lake) Member`s Gallery Posts: 23,151	Yea you stole my bolts! __________________ 2008 4x4 Megacab, 68RFE 97 Dodge gone.... 24V P-Pump Mafia member #1(retired) Thanks to Mumau Diesel, Goerend Transmission, Northeast Diesel Service!

08-02-2010, 05:52 PM	#32
01PPUMP Name: 01PPUMP Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2006 Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,164	__________________ Northeast Diesel Service

08-02-2010, 04:40 PM	#23
Wylie513 Name: Wylie513 Title: Let'er eat Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Swanton, Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 408	Have you tryed hardend bolts yet like a custom order at fastenal

08-02-2010, 04:59 PM	#24
kmdmax Name: kmdmax Title: Rookie Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2010 Member`s Gallery Posts: 16	Broke the bolts all the time, arp studs are holding strong.

08-02-2010, 06:00 PM	#33
joelc79 Name: joelc79 Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Rootstown, Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 3,075	so i had a 95 f350 dually with 200k+ on the odometer, i sheared the bolts about 0nce every 3 to 4 months. I towed alot and beat the chit out of it. The rearend was makin some noise one day so i rebuilt it with new ring and pinion, bearings, etc... Never had the problem again. There was tons of slop in the mesh of the gears, hub bearings were always good. Just my experience, even though its ford junk.

08-02-2010, 06:01 PM	#34
zstroken Name: zstroken Title: For $$$ your name here Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Western Michigan(by the lake) Member`s Gallery Posts: 23,151	When the thermometer drops below 100 this evening I will go out and pull the cover. __________________ 2008 4x4 Megacab, 68RFE 97 Dodge gone.... 24V P-Pump Mafia member #1(retired) Thanks to Mumau Diesel, Goerend Transmission, Northeast Diesel Service!

08-03-2010, 09:03 PM	#36
dmaxlover Name: dmaxlover Title: Diesel Enthusiast Status: Not Here Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Oconomowoc,WI Member`s Gallery Posts: 177	I would start with checking the holes in your axle flanges. If some of the holes are ovaled out, they would be loaded unevenly causing 1 to break then the next.... And so on. You could swap axles from side to side and see if you have the same results, I bet you don't. If the flanges look ok, go to the hardware store and pic up a set of socket head cap screws. If the size is 1/2"-13, torque them up to 90 ft/lbs with some sort of lube, ie anti-seize in a star pattern until they are all tighted evenly. You aren't just relying on the shear capacity of the bolt, but also the fiction from clamp load between the axle and hub which turns out to be approximately 88000 lbs of clamp load. __________________ John 2001 ccsb 4x4 D/A Chevrolet Too many mods to list 2005 rclb 4x4 D/A GMC Almost stock BADGER TRUCK PULLERS ASSOCIATION

08-03-2010, 09:45 PM	#37
8UPRACIN Name: 8UPRACIN Title: Diesel Enthusiast Status: Not Here Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Coos Bay, OR Member`s Gallery Posts: 236	I had the same problem with mine backing out and popping the head off too. I went down to the local CAT dealer and got some of their HD bolts and haven't had an issue in 3 years. I was replacing them every couple months just racing around town and beating on the truck hard. Chris __________________ CHRIS 1999 Monster VP, Injectors by ii, Aurora Compounds, 10.44@129.06. 849/1456 and 1083/1914 on nitrous. Thanks to Siskiyou Diesel Perf, ATS Diesel, EDGE, Opti-Lube, Industrial Injection, Icebox Perf, FASS, Fluidampr, JGS fab, Proven Perf, ZEX, Quadzilla

08-04-2010, 08:54 AM	#39
Ben46a Name: Ben46a Title: Puller wannabe Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Waverley, NS Member`s Gallery Posts: 813	Cat bolts are where its at, the may be stamped grade 8 but they are stronger than anything else out there. __________________ 2008 Ram RCLB 2500 4x4,6.7, 3850 SBCDD, 3.42, II 85% cp3, 75/83/1.0, 2nd gen PDI manifold, torker 150 hp inj, ADII 165, Hellman Sump, A1 H11 studs, Smarty TNT, BHAF, Hellman intercooler, passenger diesel intake system and grid delete.