Need some insulation advise

What's the point? The point is, you add foam to the stud walls, shave it flush, then cover it with sheeting and it will be air tight and insulated as hell. Put 2x6 stud walls on the exterior and you will be good.
 
I am in northern indiana. Our turbo shop (60x80 of it is insulated) is all spray foam on the walls and cellulose in the ceiling. I have only used 300 gallons of propane this winter. Granted we have had some warm days but I keep it at 60* all day and night with a very inefficient propane forced air hanging furnace. If we buy the building I think radiant heat is in order LOL that thing runs quite a bit trying to keep up with this big building.
 
4x4dually said:
What's the point? The point is, you add foam to the stud walls, shave it flush, then cover it with sheeting and it will be air tight and insulated as hell. Put 2x6 stud walls on the exterior and you will be good.
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I didn't think you were supposed to spray foam 4" thick?

I thought you were saying spray it on the wall(2" thick or so) and leave airspace.

Maybe that was the issue that was experienced.

Only bad thing I could think of is spray foam probably isn't renovation friendly(IE pulling in wire etc)


What kind of cost to do a 32'x50'x10' building 4" walls?
 
RDPsmoker said:
Ok so if I don't do spray foam what's R rating of insulation should I use? For the ceiling and walls?
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I think industry standard would be R20 walls and R40 ceiling. But you'll need to hang some tough rib metal siding or soffit from the trusses to hold it all.
 
It depends on the foam type. Closed cell vs open cell. Closed cell foam is a vapor barrier and will not create condensate. Open cell foam has a lower insulation value and is permeable and will allow vapor through. Closed cell foam can be used on unventilated attic ceilings.


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On thing you could do to save on money and air seal the building is just spray the whole thing with only 1" thick of closed cell foam. Then will the batts with whatever other insulation you can


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Ghostman said:
On thing you could do to save on money and air seal the building is just spray the whole thing with only 1" thick of closed cell foam. Then will the batts with whatever other insulation you can


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That was the process folks said they had seen condensation issues. Basically moisture from the warm heated area permeates the bat and you end up with condensation at the bat/foam interface.
 
The thing is.....if moisture gets in, yes, it will trap it. The solution is, build your crap so it won't get moisture in it! LOL

Seriously, If you have a barrier on the outside of the wall under the siding and cover in the interior with sheeting, you won't trap moisture because it can't get in. Now, if you redneck ass it from the get-go...then yes...you get ghetto results.
 
Anybody have any issues with shrinkage issues using closed cell? Was just reading articles about some of the foam shrinking.

What about spraying directly on the backside of the roof? Any issues with it falling/not adhering after several years?
 
4x4dually said:
The thing is.....if moisture gets in, yes, it will trap it. The solution is, build your crap so it won't get moisture in it! LOL

Seriously, If you have a barrier on the outside of the wall under the siding and cover in the interior with sheeting, you won't trap moisture because it can't get in. Now, if you redneck ass it from the get-go...then yes...you get ghetto results.
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What are you suggesting for outside barrier? Sheeting as in sheet rock or?
 
lorendiesel5.9 said:
Spray foam traps moisture and will rot off the bottom of your studs in 5 years or so.
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My 15 year old building would disagree. If you are getting enough moisture in to rot posts then you have bigger issues. Building a pole building where the post is encased in earth and concrete will rot them off just as quick.
 
zstroken said:
Anybody have any issues with shrinkage issues using closed cell? Was just reading articles about some of the foam shrinking.

What about spraying directly on the backside of the roof? Any issues with it falling/not adhering after several years?
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The outfit that does the paint and lining for the tanks at work just did spray foam on there new building, sprayed straight onto the tin. The owners other business is construction, so I'd think he'd know if that'd be a problem or not. All I know is it made a huge difference in that building, before the foam it was really cold, now it's kinda hot.
 
I also have trusses in my garage. I used r19 un- faced Batts above the bottom 2x4 running them perpendicular to the trusses. Then I used r19 faced Batts in under that in between the trusses. Total r38 Then I sheet rocked it. You will need to cover it with something or they will fall down. Spray foam would have been way to expensive for a space I only heat when I'm working out there. It does hold the heat in quite well. FYI I got a quote from a local building supply (kamco) they were 40% cheaper than hd or lowes. I would guess it would cost about a grand to insulate and sheet rock with fiberglass.
 
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