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04-04-2010, 10:12 AM
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#1
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Name: RonA
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Liberal ground zero.
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Posts: 11,053
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Different front axle for First Gen Dodge?
I desperately need better brakes for my first gen. Is there a different front axle that could be put in that has larger rotors? I've done the hydro-boost swap and while it was an improvement, it is not nearly enough.
__________________
55 years of work and all I got was a T-shirt.
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04-04-2010, 10:26 AM
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#2
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Name: roachie
Title: Taco Master
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: East TN
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Posts: 11,133
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I would think that a 99-04 superduty would be and easy swap.
__________________
99 F250____sold (to a ninja)
01 F250____Mexican F150
04 F350____Fat boy
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04-04-2010, 10:48 AM
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#3
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Name: bigstacks95
Title: Diesel Doc
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Falls Village, CT
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Posts: 2,030
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I wouldn't change the front axle. There are plenty of 2nd and 3rd gen guys who wish they had a Dana 60 with kingpins, lockouts, and tapered wheel bearings. What about your rear brakes? Are they properly adjusted? Maybe you can put better wheel cylinders in that have a smaller bore.
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--Dave--
58 Dodge Power Wagon 3.0 Limited Pro Stock diesel pulling truck
2020 Ram 3500 HO/Aisin Laramie/night tow rig
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04-04-2010, 10:58 AM
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#4
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Name: mondtster
Title: Too Much Time
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: k74
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Posts: 1,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roachie
I would think that a 99-04 superduty would be and easy swap.
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Except for the fact that the Super Duty trucks have a different bolt pattern...
It has been a while since I've seen/worked on a 1st gen. What kind of brakes do they have? You might try comparing the kingpin Ford brakes to the kingpin Dodge brakes and see if there is an improvement there.
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04-04-2010, 11:21 AM
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#5
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Name: RonA
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Liberal ground zero.
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Posts: 11,053
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I've been looking online at some of the 4wd shop offerings. DynaTrac has something called a Pro Rock 60. It says it has larger rotors. I'll call them Monday and check it out. I might be able to find a shop that can splice something onto mine. If I could get brakes that worked as well as 3rd gen's I'd be happy to mod the rear to get the wheels to match. I don't have rear discs yet. I've asked around and everyone says the fronts are the problem. Going to rear discs is only a slight improvement.
__________________
55 years of work and all I got was a T-shirt.
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04-08-2010, 01:19 PM
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#6
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Name: Kronic_187
Title: Mekanical injection junky
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: British Columbia, Canada
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Posts: 1,341
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i'd start talking to brake companies and see if there are any kits.... maybe bigger calipers etc.
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96:CCLB/4x4:NV5600/3250DD, 178/208, 7mmDV's, 5x.016, 155*, 2095, 4GSK, H11, 61.5/68/.9-88/96/1.32, Hammy VS/Manton PR, Dual 3.5" Pusher, 1/2"Feed-3/8Return,6" longarm, Junkyard Freespin Kit
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04-08-2010, 02:54 PM
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#7
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Name: bh10
Title: Web Wrencher
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Iowa, now in Georgia, again
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Posts: 1,974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonA
I've been looking online at some of the 4wd shop offerings. DynaTrac has something called a Pro Rock 60. It says it has larger rotors. I'll call them Monday and check it out. I might be able to find a shop that can splice something onto mine. If I could get brakes that worked as well as 3rd gen's I'd be happy to mod the rear to get the wheels to match. I don't have rear discs yet. I've asked around and everyone says the fronts are the problem. Going to rear discs is only a slight improvement.
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The problem is DynaTrac makes their products out of gold and diamonds, or at least charge you like they do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kronic_187
i'd start talking to brake companies and see if there are any kits.... maybe bigger calipers etc.
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x2, call Baer or Wilwood, new slotted rotors and calipers will be you best bet.
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14 CTD
95 12v
Big Thanks To PURE DIESEL POWER CSnyder @ Snyder Motorsports
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04-08-2010, 04:28 PM
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#8
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Name: Mountainman234
Title: HillBilly
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Maine
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Posts: 259
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Id replace all the brake hoses with steel braided brake line there is a kit out there. It will be your best bang for the buck. It is a world of difference and its considerably cheaper than the other options.
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04-09-2010, 11:03 AM
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#9
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Name: gunracer1
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: just north of lake weatherford, tx
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Posts: 2,068
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a ford axle has the diff mounted on the wrong side for a 1 st gen truck. you have a good front axle. i am sure you should be able to find some better rotors and calipers for a lot less money and a lot less work. check out currie also
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98 3500 4x4 quad 12v 5 speed,98 quad 4x4 12v stock sold, and a 95 reg cab getting triples.97 dually 4x4,6 speed over 500 rwhp, sold, 98 3/4 ton short bed reg cab, over 500 rwhp, sold. 98 quad 5 speed sold and the wife has a little dmax.
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04-09-2010, 11:36 AM
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#10
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Name: RonA
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Liberal ground zero.
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Posts: 11,053
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Currie, Baer, Wilwood, .... there are no upgrades available. When I get a chance i will go down to the truck wreckers and look at some different axles. If there isn't anything that looks good for a splice(that there are upgrades available for), then a custom axle will be the only option. Dynatrac at least makes options. That's probably why they are expensive.
__________________
55 years of work and all I got was a T-shirt.
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04-11-2010, 11:45 PM
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#11
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Name: Tate
Title: What?
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
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Posts: 3,419
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Aren't brake upgrades for older chevies pretty common? Chev d60's are on the right side for the 1st gen.
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'98 3500 2wd, 24v, 5 spd, p-pumped
'98 2500 4wd, 12v, 6 spd, VP'd
'02 VW Jetta, 5 spd.
My p-pump conversion pics
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04-26-2010, 09:16 PM
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#12
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Name: K204DR
Title: I'm the Driver
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: TN
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Posts: 971
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chevy 60's are almost identical to the early dodges. I just put wagner thermoquiet front pads on mine and redid the rear brakes and it stops on a dime now. make sure your rear brakes are adjusted up tight and the adjusters are functioning properly. they are supposed to adjust when you back up and hit the brakes. I'm running 35's on mine.
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88 Chevy crewcab 6bt nv4500 valair clutch
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04-27-2010, 12:00 AM
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#13
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Name: CL2000
Title: Too Much Time
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Martinez,CA
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Posts: 1,740
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Ron it can be done, you can get brackets to run a willwood caliper and also 8 lug hats and you can get drilled and sloted rotors.I can dig up part numbers if you want.
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04-27-2010, 06:51 AM
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#14
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Name: Tobin
Title: 5.7 IDI Powaa!
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oviedo, FL
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Posts: 1,496
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No need for drilled rotors on a 1 ton truck. Just one more place to introduce cracking.
Tobin
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2006 Dodge 2500 QCLB 4x4 Goerend 48RE
1977 F250 RCLB 4x4 "High Boy" 12 valve, 180 pump, 5x.014, S363/S475, Goerend 47RH, NP271, 2007 D60/Sterling 10.5, 40" Toyo MTs
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04-27-2010, 02:04 PM
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#15
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Name: dvst8r
Title: Unobtainium
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Location: Airdrie, AB
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Posts: 2,053
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I wonder if just some Porterfield carbon Kevlar pads, would be enough difference?
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Brett
Assistant to the Manager, Ragged Edge Racing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonA
If i had some ham, I could have ham and eggs, if i had some eggs.
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04-27-2010, 03:37 PM
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#16
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Name: CL2000
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Martinez,CA
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Posts: 1,740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobin
No need for drilled rotors on a 1 ton truck. Just one more place to introduce cracking.
Tobin
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It helps big time on something that is heavy.It will take a long time for a good rotor to crack.
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04-27-2010, 07:07 PM
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#17
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Name: csutton7
Title: Too Much Time
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
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Posts: 694
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or go slotted vs drilled...
Ron--did you check out EGR brakes---they make lots of kits for trucks--if they don't show your yr call them---that's where I'd start.....next I'd contemplate swapping in a chebby 60 or cutting the c's off and weld on some dedenbears or equal and get some some dedenbear knuckles and build a ford 60 outer set up----chris
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Did have a 99 dodge 4x4 QC sport daily driver ladderracked puller(sleddy loves my truck)---constantly upgraded since '00--743 hp back in '03:
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04-27-2010, 09:12 PM
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#18
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Name: Kronic_187
Title: Mekanical injection junky
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,341
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dodge and chev dana 60F axles ARE identical.... just the chev's have there spring perch's a tad narrower then the dodges..... a very popular swap is a dodge d60f into a chev becuase a chev dif is top dollar.... everyone throws dodge in the trash (70's and 80's)
^^^^ king pin axles of course
__________________
96:CCLB/4x4:NV5600/3250DD, 178/208, 7mmDV's, 5x.016, 155*, 2095, 4GSK, H11, 61.5/68/.9-88/96/1.32, Hammy VS/Manton PR, Dual 3.5" Pusher, 1/2"Feed-3/8Return,6" longarm, Junkyard Freespin Kit
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04-27-2010, 10:30 PM
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#19
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Name: csutton7
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
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Posts: 694
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yea you can swap parts across them--forgot about that--thanks for setting me straight....
__________________
Did have a 99 dodge 4x4 QC sport daily driver ladderracked puller(sleddy loves my truck)---constantly upgraded since '00--743 hp back in '03:
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05-17-2010, 09:35 PM
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#20
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Name: Supershafts
Title: We race, so You win
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
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Posts: 421
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What problem are you having exactly.... I lost the rear drums and haven't a problem
I have a CC, 1 ton, front and rear D60hd's on 35's and discs all around...
I can stop pretty short, for a truck i can drive into a corner deeper then most would try with a car...
I drive everything like im racing it too, i never even had fade issues...
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We Race!! We Vote!!
71 Dart 340, 73 RR 440-6pk clone, 78 Magnum GT, 85 W-350 Power Ram le cc, 91 Dodge daytona, 95 Jeep GC, 99 Dakota, 08 Dodge Ram 6.7
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