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Sled Pulling From Street to Pro-Mod, get your Sled Pulling fix here!

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Old 02-13-2009, 05:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JerrodGlover View Post
What about Crower?

Yup they have them too, and cheaper yet.

http://www.crower.com/cgi-bin/search...&go.x=3&go.y=8


BBD
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:41 PM   #22
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here is another option for you guys and the from what i can remember, the pic i got looks very very similar to this

http://rrconnectingrods.com/store/cu...rods-p-72.html
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:52 PM   #23
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boy i don't think I would run a H beam in a diesel.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:03 PM   #24
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boy i don't think I would run a H beam in a diesel.

Yeah, I have been told to stay away from the H-beam rods for a mod pulling motor.


BBD
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:03 PM   #25
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boy i don't think I would run a H beam in a diesel.
the ones from TTS that i got a pic of is actually a ibeam rod but the ends look pretty close. its just another option for guys. either way, that h beam has to be just as strong or stronger than a stock rod.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:05 PM   #26
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Yeah, I have been told to stay away from the H-beam rods for a mod pulling motor.


BBD
why is that? it has to be stronger than a stocker and those are good for up to 1000hp, thats already been proven. why is a i beam rod better than an h beam rod?
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:35 PM   #27
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why is that? it has to be stronger than a stocker and those are good for up to 1000hp, thats already been proven. why is a i beam rod better than an h beam rod?
I was told I beam rods are generally more stable under heavy compression loads i.e. diesels and turbo motors.

BBD
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:43 PM   #28
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I found this on the Cunningham site.."We at Cunningham Rods feel that the correct way to manufacture a connecting rod is by using a two-piece forging and simulate the shape of a slice of pizza (triangle shaped) for the maximum strength. We all know that's impossible due to clearance problems. So the way we achieve this goal is to manufacture all of our rods in the I-beam configuration so that the main mass of the rod is out as far as possible. Making it similar to a pizza slice or triangulated for maximum strength. We do not feel that an H-beam style rod can accomplish this. You cannot get the main heavy mass of the rod out as far as you can with an I-beam style rod."

BBD
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:57 PM   #29
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I found this on the Cunningham site.."We at Cunningham Rods feel that the correct way to manufacture a connecting rod is by using a two-piece forging and simulate the shape of a slice of pizza (triangle shaped) for the maximum strength. We all know that's impossible due to clearance problems. So the way we achieve this goal is to manufacture all of our rods in the I-beam configuration so that the main mass of the rod is out as far as possible. Making it similar to a pizza slice or triangulated for maximum strength. We do not feel that an H-beam style rod can accomplish this. You cannot get the main heavy mass of the rod out as far as you can with an I-beam style rod."

BBD
that explains its. i never knew that. makes sense. thanks scott.
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:21 PM   #30
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just from a strength of materials point of view, an I beam is stronger due to the increase of moment of inertia and buckling loads than an H beam. FWIW...
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:45 PM   #31
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from what I understand, TTS's duramax rods are done by R&R.. hate to assume it, but I'd imagine they use R&R for their Cummins rods as well????


c-ya
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Old 02-17-2009, 09:45 PM   #32
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The problem with an I beam design in a Cummins rod is the load placed on the area around the bolt in the angled split cap. The H beam gives greater strength in the rod in this area than an I beam can. If the cap was split in a normal direction the I beam would be fine but it will not fit down the cylinder that way. As with everything there will always be trade off's but strength is not something we are willing to give up on. The H beam is every bit as strong, if not stronger as the I beam but at high engine RPM's (above 7000) it will cause more windage.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:55 PM   #33
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If I understand you correctly, you are directly refuting the information posted on Cunningham's site?
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:06 AM   #34
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Scott,why are you getting away from what has already lasted 4 years?The engine that was in your truck has proven to be bullet proof in the world of mod. engines.I dont think anyone has had that many hooks on an engine that makes the power yours does.It looked to me Chris had his chit together when he built that engine and for that matter wouldnt a billet rod have the same fait under the same isseues?
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:08 AM   #35
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I played with a set at Woodruffs on Mon. .
Brandon
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:39 AM   #36
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You played with Woodruff's rod??

Sicko!
Chris
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:43 AM   #37
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You played with Woodruff's rod??

Sicko!
Chris
That just wasn't rite

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Old 02-18-2009, 08:56 AM   #38
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Scott,why are you getting away from what has already lasted 4 years?The engine that was in your truck has proven to be bullet proof in the world of mod. engines.I dont think anyone has had that many hooks on an engine that makes the power yours does.It looked to me Chris had his chit together when he built that engine and for that matter wouldnt a billet rod have the same fait under the same isseues?

I was wondering the same thing? If the rods are fine, reuse them. If you have to replace them, put the same thing back in it, it seemed to work this long?

-Tom
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:17 AM   #39
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You played with Woodruff's rod??

Sicko!
Chris


Hey it says with A set, not who's set, just A set and the set I played with were in a box wrapped up.
Brandon
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:21 AM   #40
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Well, at least you play with wrapped rods...hate for you to catch something!!

Chris
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