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Old 10-06-2011, 08:12 AM   #21
SINNER
 
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The point is why go through all the trouble to increase flow through the head then put the most restrictive piece of the intake tract back on. Like stated, it's just pissing away money to look cool IMO.
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:43 AM   #22
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Anyone bagging on the op ever think that he could just put a spacer in place of the intake heater for the other 8 months of the year???
 
Old 10-06-2011, 08:53 AM   #23
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Point is even a spacer of the same size as the grid heater is restrictive. A shaved intake is not needed on all but the most extreme builds. Trucks are over 850-900 hp. with the stock intake horn even. So I stand by the statement that if you are running a grid heater and plan on doing a cut intake it is not at the point of being needed.
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2004 f-350 cc drw

Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day...

Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
 
Old 10-06-2011, 09:22 AM   #24
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Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 11-02-2011, 08:22 PM   #25
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You could easily fab a flange for a heater grid to go into an aftermarket intake if you had to have it
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:26 PM   #26
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whe

Last edited by BigGreen97; 11-14-2011 at 01:34 PM.
 
Old 11-14-2011, 01:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17cumminsboy View Post
nope im prolly the first. Click the image to open in full size.

the only reason i went to a IR manifold was for the CR head to clear the p-pump, and in wisconsin it does get kinda cold. lol
Where did you get the grid heater for that? It looks really good. im looking to make an intake allot like it.
 
Old 11-14-2011, 03:00 PM   #28
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its just a stock grid heater from a 24 valve.
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:48 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SINNER View Post
Point is even a spacer of the same size as the grid heater is restrictive. A shaved intake is not needed on all but the most extreme builds. Trucks are over 850-900 hp. with the stock intake horn even. So I stand by the statement that if you are running a grid heater and plan on doing a cut intake it is not at the point of being needed.
so because you dont like his idea it is not ok i think its cool i go ether my self grid heaters died on me and 26* of timing the heaters diudnt do enough
 
Old 11-22-2011, 08:10 AM   #30
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Was wondering if anyone knew the thread pitch on the map sensor and IAT sensor? Welding a bung on my plenum and was interested. Look like maybe 14x1.5?
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:26 AM   #31
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Greg listed some "tips"

ZZ Custom Fabrication
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:55 AM   #32
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thats how i did mine, milled it off with a long bit, milled it flat with a flycutter on a cnc mill. Free and easy. Greg at zzfab sold me a manifold flange, 3/4 thick and it had all the hole locations
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:04 AM   #33
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up here in the great white north we run espar diesl fired coolant heaters.

dont need the grid heater cause the motor is toasty warm.

even with glow/plugs grid heaters i wouldnt start my truck unless it has been pluged in or preheated with the espar.............espicially using ether
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:07 PM   #34
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What are people using to seal between the head and intake flange. Silicon? Cut out a custom gasket?
 
Old 02-09-2012, 02:21 PM   #35
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Hellmann uses a rubber o-ring(there is a groove machined into his intake) and silicone to make sure it doesn't leak
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:38 PM   #36
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Gray rtv
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:43 PM   #37
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http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:46 PM   #38
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Quote:
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What he said!!!
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:51 PM   #39
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:53 PM   #40
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ive had good luck with anerobic silicone from napa just my
 
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