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03-01-2013, 12:29 PM
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#21
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Name: little6cylinder
Title: Everything is "fixable"
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,218
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Hurley,dvst8r thanks.
They do need to adjustable to maximize how they work. The shackle angle(thats why mine bolt on), shocks, bar length, how stiff the springs are(or travel) all change things. On the next set all the bushing ends will be adjustable but for now these function very well.
Plus a floating ladder bar never changes ride or make any noise.
I just like floating ladder bars better on a street/strip truck because when my truck was a street truck I could drive it 50-100 miles to the track with a good ride at 6600-6800 lbs, adjust nothing and cut consistent 1.6 60 foots on 285's then drive it home. I know 1.6's aren't anything special but for someone who wants to set it up once, have a stock ride, hook great, and not have any noise I would recommend this style over Caltracs. I can't stand when anything rattles which is probably the biggest reason I prefer these on anything still street driven. Obviously Caltracs can hook good. Nothing against them but they are not the only option like some seem to think.
__________________
97 Dodge ECLB, Super Street
Built at Granby Truck Shop
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03-01-2013, 11:31 PM
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#22
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Name: Cummins12Club
Title: Happy Dinosaur
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Too Far From the Action
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 979
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What do you mean by floating bars?
__________________
93 Dodge, going racing. Special Thanks to Tim Wright & Pro Street Diesel
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03-02-2013, 02:42 AM
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#23
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Name: little6cylinder
Title: Everything is "fixable"
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12Club
What do you mean by floating bars?
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A ladder bar with a shackle in the front. Like the ones I posted the pictures of.
__________________
97 Dodge ECLB, Super Street
Built at Granby Truck Shop
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03-02-2013, 06:49 AM
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#24
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Name: Cummins12Club
Title: Happy Dinosaur
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Too Far From the Action
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 979
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Oh ok and then the rest are just considered fixed bars?
__________________
93 Dodge, going racing. Special Thanks to Tim Wright & Pro Street Diesel
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03-02-2013, 08:39 AM
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#25
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Name: Hurley
Title: BLAKLUNG
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Statesville, NC
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 3,698
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^more or less. speaking for those with no prior knowledge...
leaf spring suspensions move in a slight arc as the axle travels up & down. for those guys with the long 'pulling style' traction bars, the link is basically 'fixed' because the arc of the axle doesnt match the arc that the traction bar moves. How does it move - the rubber/poly bushings in the suspension are the forgiving parts that allows everythign to move.
Enter the floating traction bars - they are truly 'fixed' to the axle, and the shackle on the frame end allows the axle to move fore/aft on its own without binding. All the while, it still controls axle wrap because the axle twist is counter-acted by the link and shackle geometry (note: this is possible because the traction bar is tied directly to the axle and cannot rotate freely from the axle. most pulling-style bars have a pivot mount on frame and axle end, so in essence, there's still some freedom of movement. it seems that most have an adjustable length which can preload the suspension to aid in traction control)
ymmv.
__________________
THIS
IS
COMPD.
95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
5x14/7mm +100cc/4k/11-blade billet 63/68/.91 T4
539/989
03 RCLB 4x4, SSR
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03-02-2013, 10:28 AM
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#26
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Name: Cummins12Club
Title: Happy Dinosaur
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Too Far From the Action
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 979
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So from what I gather, you want some leaf spring movement for racing and in sled pulling you do not, so a sled pulling style bar set up is less effective for drag racing then something comparable to a caltrack?
__________________
93 Dodge, going racing. Special Thanks to Tim Wright & Pro Street Diesel
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03-02-2013, 11:33 AM
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#27
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Name: 450rbronco
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 303
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if looking for free floating bar and not wanting to build them look at glacier diesels. i built a setup very similar to glaciers so far i am very happy
__________________
05 cummins QC
smarty,garmon,super B special, arson III, 2nd gen man, raptor,afe, simpson diesel,ladder bars.[/U][/U]
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03-02-2013, 11:42 AM
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#28
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Name: Hurley
Title: BLAKLUNG
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Statesville, NC
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 3,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12Club
So from what I gather, you want some leaf spring movement for racing and in sled pulling you do not, so a sled pulling style bar set up is less effective for drag racing then something comparable to a caltrack?
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more or less; there's still a ton of variables that must be addressed.
__________________
THIS
IS
COMPD.
95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
5x14/7mm +100cc/4k/11-blade billet 63/68/.91 T4
539/989
03 RCLB 4x4, SSR
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03-02-2013, 11:50 AM
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#29
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Name: diesel_importer
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fairfield,TX
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,501
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Little6cylinder, was that in a 2wd truck?
__________________
01 QCSB 2WD AUTO: Redline/Smarty, Monster VP, 6x.013, S467 FMW, Goerend Trans, Caltracs.
Fuel only - 11.85 @ 114, 50 Shot - 11.58 @ 116 w/ 1.69 60'
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03-02-2013, 11:52 AM
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#30
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Name: Hurley
Title: BLAKLUNG
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Statesville, NC
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 3,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_importer
Little6cylinder, was that in a 2wd truck?
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4wd...scroll up, bro
__________________
THIS
IS
COMPD.
95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
5x14/7mm +100cc/4k/11-blade billet 63/68/.91 T4
539/989
03 RCLB 4x4, SSR
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03-02-2013, 12:17 PM
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#31
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Name: Cummins2000
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley
^more or less. speaking for those with no prior knowledge...
leaf spring suspensions move in a slight arc as the axle travels up & down. for those guys with the long 'pulling style' traction bars, the link is basically 'fixed' because the arc of the axle doesnt match the arc that the traction bar moves. How does it move - the rubber/poly bushings in the suspension are the forgiving parts that allows everythign to move.
Enter the floating traction bars - they are truly 'fixed' to the axle, and the shackle on the frame end allows the axle to move fore/aft on its own without binding. All the while, it still controls axle wrap because the axle twist is counter-acted by the link and shackle geometry (note: this is possible because the traction bar is tied directly to the axle and cannot rotate freely from the axle. most pulling-style bars have a pivot mount on frame and axle end, so in essence, there's still some freedom of movement. it seems that most have an adjustable length which can preload the suspension to aid in traction control)
ymmv.
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Thanks for explaining that to people like me who have never setup anything but stock suspension geometry.
__________________
2000 Dodge 2500, ECLB NV4500
1990 VW Jetta 1.6 N/A Diesel, 5 speed
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03-03-2013, 08:37 PM
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#32
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Name: little6cylinder
Title: Everything is "fixable"
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450rbronco
if looking for free floating bar and not wanting to build them look at glacier diesels. i built a setup very similar to glaciers so far i am very happy
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I think glacier only builds common rail traction bars, and speaking from experience it requires some work on a second gen. Both shocks have to be on the rear of the axle. You need to relocate some things like the parking brake brackets just little things like that.
On a first gen, I'm not sure though.
__________________
97 Dodge ECLB, Super Street
Built at Granby Truck Shop
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