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Old 06-07-2019, 12:53 AM   #1
DanielAdams

Name: DanielAdams
Title: Rookie
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Join Date: Jun 2019
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Thoughts on my almost finished 47re rebuild.

Some things I've learned from rebuilding the 47re transmission in my 1998 Dodge with 12 valve Cummins. This is/was my first. I’m not finished, but almost. The overdrive had failed, over-extending the overdrive piston and losing line pressure. Fried most the clutches and blued the steels.

Main Case:
The Forward Clutch final clearance with 4 of the Borg Warner factory type frictions soaked in oil came out at .027”. All factory type stuff.
I tried to replace the forward clutch wave snap ring, but it’s discontinued(?) and no longer available. Mine looked very good without any pitting so I am reusing it.

The Direct clutch assembly with 5 of the Borg Warner factory type frictions soaked in oil is at .080”.
I installed the Sonnax billet input shaft which comes with the shorter, red-anodized direct piston. Waste of money? I have had some fortunate experiences with vehicles lately and don’t want to tempt fate.



Overdrive Assembly:
I Retained the original factory flat snap ring of .079” and against my better wishes, I removed that upper waved snap ring. I didn’t want to remove that second snap ring.
I installed an Alto stepped reaction plate # A22141G. Overall thickness is .215” with a tab thickness of .120”. It happens to be thicker than the 48re(?) stepped plate which I bought on Ebay which looks like a hack job.
I have 6 Borg Warner factory type frictions and 4 steels of .065” and two steels of .069”. I have no idea where I got the .065” steel plates from, but wish I could have gotten two more.
The top overdrive brake steel plate to super thin snap ring clearance is .033” with wet, oiled plates. This close measurement makes me super nervous, but again, people say it’s OK.
The top overdrive brake steel plate to overdrive piston clearance is .115”
It looks like there is correct hub spline length available and the overdrive piston shouldn’t be able to over-extend, unless something happens to my overdrive brake clutches.


Overdrive assembly notes:
I had difficulty getting my overdrive clearances correct. I really struggled. Mostly because I:
1. Decided to add that 6th Overdrive brake friction.

2. Still don’t like my clearance of .033” between the top overdrive brake steel and that thin little snap ring which holds everything together. I guess that clearance is OK even though it doesn’t follow the rule of thumb of about .010“ per friction?

3. I noticed that the large, rear output bearing in the overdrive case does not seat flush in its’ socket. It’s rearward movement is arrested by it’s outer snap ring (the one hidden under the cover). This snap ring slowly settles into the parent metal of the aluminum overdrive case. I believe this did slightly change my clearance for my midshaft ring or collar spacer measurement. That clearance had grown but was within tolerance by about .003” or .004” so I went with it. This minor rearward movement of overdrive assembly would decrease the distance between my overdrive piston and top overdrive brake steel.

4. I was concerned about the overdrive piston being able to overextend. I no longer think it would be an issue. Because of the rear roller bearing being slightly rearward, I had considered using the next thicker overdrive piston thrust bearing plate. Changing from my .200” to the .213/.215” would allow me to increase my OD brake clearance from .115 to about .130”. Does it matter? That would increase or correct my Overdrive piston to top overdrive brake steel plate clearance and also increase my Direct Clutch clearances when the overdrive is activated.

5. The Alto stepped reaction plate was MUCH more uniform than any of the other aftermarket stepped reaction plates I purchased. That’s why I’m trying this stepped plate.

6. Being a newbie buying transmission parts is difficult.




Valve Body:
I’m reverse engineering a previous shift kit and minor modifications the previous owner did about 12 years ago. Luckily the cast aluminum pieces are original. Then I’ll install the Transgo Diesel kit.
Does anyone know where I can purchase valve body parts from? I need the smaller, thin steel plate and a 3-4 Timing Valve. Someone ground down one of the journals on this 3-4 Timing Valve. My smaller steel plate says ATS Diesel V1.0 and I don't know what differences might exist.
I'm thinking I might be forced to buy another valve body but mine is in good shape and I would like to reuse it.


Had I stayed with the factory assembly for the Overdrive Direct I would have been done sooner. If I was to have done this again for the first time, I would have stayed with the original factory clutch combination of 4 Forward, 4 Direct and 5 Overdrive Brake frictions. My 10 Overdrive Direct hasn’t changed. Otherwise I just don't know.

WHEW!!!!!!!

I've eaten a lot of humble pie in my life and this time is no exception. I'm open to most any input.

Thanks for everyone help and older posts on this website.
 
Old 06-07-2019, 07:24 AM   #2
DanielAdams

Name: DanielAdams
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2019
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Posts: 2
Input shaft seals

Two of my new input shaft seals are identical, tan-colored plastic with a square-stepped overlap junction. They ride inside the bore of the oil pump stator. When doing a test fit inside of the stator bore, these seals just fall through. No outer pressure against the stator bore. I don't see how these seals would work without a minor amount of outward pressure or expansion against the bore to initiate the sealing action.

At least the scarf-cut seals in other areas of the transmission have some outward expansion against their bore.

My Transgo kit came with two scarf cut seals for the pump body and one for the base of the input shaft. Since they came with the kit, I'm guessing those are OK to use in a rotating environment.

Last edited by DanielAdams; 06-07-2019 at 07:31 AM.
 
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