ctdthrasher
New member
What rod bolts did you use?
6.4L Cummins Build Complete and awesome.
- Thread starter Cflanery88
- Start date
zstroken
For $$$ your name here
It is an all metal transducer, much more reliable than the later ones.
Cflanery88
New member
I used the 1/2" ARP L19 bolts that came with the Wagler rods.
DieselWrencher
6cyl Vette
Very nice, clean, and detailed build you did here! It sure looks awesome!
Cflanery88
New member
VMacKenzie
New member
Mahle 6.7 QSB STD. Pistons with .030 flycuts ordered from Enterprise.
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Nice thing about the QSB pistons is not actually having to take a lot of material off the crown for the flycuts, should't drop CR much. Very nice build. Are the Wagler rods fractured cap?
Cflanery88
New member
The Wagler rods have a machined tongue and Groove designed to align and lock cap to eliminate offset caps and maintain a true bore.
ikeG
Oughta Know Better
Three generations of water pumps I decided to go with the 2nd gen pump all the way to the right. Bolt pattern and sealing is all the same.
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Is there a proven benefit to one over the other?
Cflanery88
New member
That was the pump that came up for a 06 5.9 common rail. Weep hole is on the outside under the pulley. Same as what came off my truck. The one of the right is 2nd gen style and the plastic impeller is for a 6.7. All are interchangeable. And the only benefit I see in the one on the right is I've heard the shielding can come off of the middle pump but does flow more, and the plastic impellered pump can deteriorate and also spin on the shaft but flows more than both other pumps so I've heard.
Cflanery88
New member
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Cflanery88
New member
Guys night in the shop tonight at my buddy Jims was a success. DNJ GOV pressure solenoid swap, BD 94-99 transducer conversion, and a new harness did the trick. Pretty sure the connector for the harness was cracked causing trans fluid to leak into the connector was the main cause of my problem.
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Cflanery88
New member
Don't know anybody running it but I thought I'd give it a try.
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Red Sleeper
Active member
Knowing you obviously have a built trans, why the D&J setup?
Only asking because I was told by a couple folks to leave it out when I built my 48re. I had one installed before building the trans, and it's not installed now.
Claim was too high of line pressure and wasn't needed for a rebuilt trans. I was directed to run a brogwarner (metal body GOV pressure solenoid) and leave my D&J setup out.
I now have shiny billet parts not being used.
Only asking because I was told by a couple folks to leave it out when I built my 48re. I had one installed before building the trans, and it's not installed now.
Claim was too high of line pressure and wasn't needed for a rebuilt trans. I was directed to run a brogwarner (metal body GOV pressure solenoid) and leave my D&J setup out.
I now have shiny billet parts not being used.
Cflanery88
New member
Me and my buddy both just switched to the DNJ setup and love it so far. The GM gov pressure solenoid is suppose to be built better and be more reliable. And line pressure has everything to do with how the valve body is setup and adjusted not the actual gov pressure solenoid. I had the upgraded borg in mine which I don't think it or the transducer was bad but they are prone to fail or flood with higher line pressure. The GM one will withstand a higher baseline line pressure. I'm currently at 200psi max line pressure and will be going for between 210-220 when the trans come back out. I noticed immediately the first time warming the trans up how much better the trans shifted and preformed Vs having the Borg solenoid.
Cflanery88
New member
Finally got around to weighing her. That's with me in the drivers seat. Hopefully heading to the track tomorrow.
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Cflanery88
New member
Well didn't get to race tonight due to a rain cancellation but they are hoping to have a go at it again next Friday. Also my buddy decided he needs some air bags lmao.
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