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Old 02-18-2018, 09:02 PM   #21
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That's what I'm after. High RPM high load situations?

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Old 02-18-2018, 10:06 PM   #22
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Probably more a high rpm thing than load. Although guys do run a stock bottom end to 5k rpm and ~1000hp with decent success. And when it does fail it’s usually a broken ring or rod that ends life.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Not even during UCC?
Our UCC truck is a totally different engine build/caliber of truck. It has multiple probes on both the intake side and the exhaust side with full data logger, water injection, multiple water/air coolers, etc. With the solid iron Hamilton block and filled war head, diamond pistons, etc... it's not worth comparing ring gaps, PTW #'s or anything.

The Junker has a wet standard bore 5.9 engine and I've blown the head gasket enough times over the past several years that I've gotten an up close and personal look at cylinder walls, pistons scuffing, etc. It's currently at 010" PTW and 036" top ring gap and it no longer scuffs pistons or butts rings.

I tried to make it clear than it is used hard without regard for EGT with zero instrumentation, and it's a 12v, not a 6.7 with J-jets which may or may not make a difference on piston cooling etc.
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:42 AM   #24
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Gonna take the top rings to .020-.022 and leave the PTW. If the pistons scuff I may go a different route next time. Will keep updating as the build moves along. Thanks everyone
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:15 AM   #25
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FWIW, my 6.7 bore is middle of spec on ring gap and 0.010" PTW. I'm curious what it will do.

I was trying to decide whether to pull my rod caps and machine them, but it really seems like I won't be in the operating range where the oil evacuation will be an issue.

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Old 02-19-2018, 10:19 AM   #26
ctdthrasher

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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggy238 View Post
FWIW, my 6.7 bore is middle of spec on ring gap and 0.010" PTW. I'm curious what it will do.

I was trying to decide whether to pull my rod caps and machine them, but it really seems like I won't be in the operating range where the oil evacuation will be an issue.

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Is it running yet?
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:58 PM   #27
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Well hmmmm. Crank is already in. Rings are gapped to max, and these are already .020 over rings and pistons so I can’t buy any larger ones and file to fit. Not sure how far out the gaps will be if I go to a larger bore.
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Originally Posted by ctdthrasher View Post
Gonna take the top rings to .020-.022 and leave the PTW. If the pistons scuff I may go a different route next time. Will keep updating as the build moves along. Thanks everyone
There's less sealing with the larger gap, but the alternative is not pretty. 0.030" top gap at 800hp will result in ~4oz oil blowby in the 1/4mi. Probably not great for a street truck. 0.020/0.040/0.020 seemed to be reasonable amount of blowby.
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Old 02-19-2018, 01:10 PM   #28
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Is it running yet?
Nope. I walked over and pet it this morning and told it I still loved it.

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Old 02-19-2018, 09:29 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by joefarmer View Post
There's less sealing with the larger gap, but the alternative is not pretty. 0.030" top gap at 800hp will result in ~4oz oil blowby in the 1/4mi. Probably not great for a street truck. 0.020/0.040/0.020 seemed to be reasonable amount of blowby.
I often wonder about gapless rings, if they would help in a situation like this hard to find info though
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:29 PM   #30
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Nope. I walked over and pet it this morning and told it I still loved it.

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Hmm. So did I haha
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Old 02-20-2018, 05:22 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by biggy238 View Post
That's what I'm after. High RPM high load situations?

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Yes, high rpm. I think a lot of them were running 12v or different brand billet rods with the same bearing clearances as the carrillos so they took a closer look at the rod and noticed how the stock rod cap is skinnier than the rod itself, which is a relief that the carrillos didn't have.
 
Old 02-21-2018, 09:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
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I often wonder about gapless rings, if they would help in a situation like this hard to find info though
I've got Total Seal gapless on 2nd position and they seem to do the trick from what I can tell in the ~4k miles so far. I've got a catch can but it sure ain't catching alot on the break in tune. Was seeing 75psi at times on the street but zero events as I was moving last summer. They all landed in the .035-.038 range on their own IIRC. I recall filing only top rings to ~.019". I set tops a bit tighter due to being street oriented. This is on stock bore QSB 6.7 pistons

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Old 02-21-2018, 10:22 PM   #33
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I'm also planning on the total seal second ring on my 6.4 build. From the few people I've heard that have used them (Broaner has been one��) I'm confident that they are worth it... At least on a street/DD build.
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:39 PM   #34
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Broaner, it's been a while, but what was your PTW on your build again ?
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:55 AM   #35
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Can't recall right now. It was a stock bore and machine shop just hit with dingleberry hone.
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:08 PM   #36
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Looked back through my stuff. I ended up at .009 PTW. They went .0065 overbore from the hone and I used stock bore QSB pistons.
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Last edited by Broaner; 02-24-2018 at 11:12 PM.
 
Old 02-25-2018, 09:56 AM   #37
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Thanks Broaner. I was planning on anything in the .006 to .009 area... Sounds good.
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:48 AM   #38
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I'm going to make this statement; I do not recommend a total seal 2nd compression ring for street use. Now, this is my opinion based on much of the information available from manufacturers. Capturing pressure between the top and second ring can cause the top ring to lift and increase the chance of premature wear.

Feel free to do as you wish, but be aware of the potential results. Same rule applies for pistons without a steel top ring land, both should be used in dedicated performance applications only.
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Old 02-25-2018, 11:05 AM   #39
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. Same rule applies for pistons without a steel top ring land, both should be used in dedicated performance applications only.
Pistons WITHOUT a steel ring land ??.
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Old 02-25-2018, 11:06 AM   #40
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Referring to forged aluminum pistons which typically use a hard anodized top ring land.
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