Sticky VGT.

I'd suggest fixing the battery issue first. Low voltage does weird things on the 6.7’s.

After that, pull the actuator and check the linkage as Jeff said. If it is OK, you probably need an Actuator. I’d suggest the City Diesel Actuator. We’re using them now instead of the Cummins/Holeset remans. They don't require calibration, they self calibrate every time you start the truck by doing a full vein sweep which also helps keep the veins and linkage free.
 
No, I'd drain the coolant from the actuator and check the actuator arm...I'm just saying what I've seen.

That's the right way to go.
Be warned Jory, those mounting bolts tend to get corroded inside the aluminum actuator housing. So if you do this part, expect to say bad things about the Holset engineers that design the turbo. You'll need to pull the wheel and inner fender to access the charger, but I guess YouTube would have already told you that. I honestly recommend letting someone with experience tackle this. Not that I don't have faith in your abilities, it's just a real pain in the ass.
 
I’d suggest the City Diesel Actuator. We’re using them now instead of the Cummins/Holeset remans.

Have you had good luck with those ? We've talked about switching, but my brother has little faith in aftermarket stuff.
 
We all know they are trash to deal with, why not just call it preventative maintenance and move on? Him taking it apart only prolongs the inevitable.

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Technician a says...........
Technician b says...........

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Have you had good luck with those ? We've talked about switching, but my brother has little faith in aftermarket stuff.
I'd stick with what you've been using.
We all know they are trash to deal with, why not just call it preventative maintenance and move on? Him taking it apart only prolongs the inevitable.

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Because why take the easy road? :nail:
 
We all know they are trash to deal with, why not just call it preventative maintenance and move on? Him taking it apart only prolongs the inevitable.

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You're likely closer to correct on this, but I'd really be interested in what codes he pulls off the ECM. Could be he's looking at an actuator issue only, which would save him around 2500.00 if that fixes it.
 
You're likely closer to correct on this, but I'd really be interested in what codes he pulls off the ECM. Could be he's looking at an actuator issue only, which would save him around 2500.00 if that fixes it.
Probably a slow to respond code.
 
I wonder if anyone has messed with running a cooler in the supply circuits to the actuators....

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Have you had good luck with those ? We've talked about switching, but my brother has little faith in aftermarket stuff.

Yes, excellent results. We have between 12 to 15 on buses now. Not a single hiccup. The local International dealer is also using them after two of their mobile techs that practically work at our shop have told them about them. They’re all new, not reman, built in Decatur, AL. Give them a call. Talk to Jesse, he’s the owner.
 
I'll see if there are any codes. We charge the truck enough to start them I took off driving. Had cruise set on 75 mph for 45 mins. Once I got off I-35, that's when it started being a bitch. Should have been charged up by then, but who knows, it may still be a battery thing. I'll definitely get that resolved first and see if it persists. I can drive normal now I just can't use my e-brake. It seems to do fine with that off while driving. The e-brake may just take it further to one side than it does while driving? I've never seen the inside, I don't have a feel for how they work in there.

One thing is for sure...I'll probably let Trent at Titanium Diesel in Blackwell do any swapping. There's a bit of peace behind knowing if something isn't right on the first drive it will be taken care of. That's something my shop doesn't have is a warranty. :)

Besides, I'll break a bolt or screw something up because as Jeff mentioned, it's not easy to get to and I don't have a lift. I'll probably loose my cool and put a bullet through something or somebody due to anger fits. :D
 
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