Looking for some advice on a 2wd puller.

The r stand for rear drive and the is the front drive axle on a tandem but some times could be stamped with a D if it is under a single axle.

Dale
 
Alright, got another question. would it be a good idea to put a 24v head on my truck? my cousin is considering buying 2 24v shortblocks, and i know the intake horn is a good idea to swap over, but what about the whole head? what all would be required.
 
stick with the 12V head. Just do a p-pump conversion later. The 12v injectors are better suited for the p-pump.

Although, I've never heard of a VE pump 24v. Could be something to try and a little cheaper as long as the VP44 lines will work with the VE pump. Never know, it may run alot better than a VP44 24v. The pistons are different between the 12 and 24v though. Would probably be just as easy to put your VE pump and timing case on the 24v motor and drop it in.
 
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i was planning on building a p-pumped engine outside of the truck. Then transplanting it into the truck with a nv4500. Just figuring the 24v head would flow alot more.
 
Not to get off subject here but I picked up a diesel power mag today and is that lynns truck pulling the big wheelie?
 
theres a guy who put a VE on his 24valve. he used the same lines just ''streched'' them out. search it
 
its a reliability thing for paranoid VP owners hahaha i choose to continue the eternal VP struggle.
 
I'm really starting to think i'm gonna keep my ve for a while. i was gonna p-pump as soon as possible. but i think i can be competitive with the ve. I may also be pulling the truck in 3 weeks. mainly because there is a pull, and it would be cool to have a control video to compare with how it pulls after some mods. Kinda a before and after thing. were gonna haul the truck in on a float, because were figuring something may decide to break.
 
Best thing to do if you think something is going to let go out back, is a driveshaft loop. That way nothing gets beat to chit when it decides to go.
 
oldestof11 said:
Best thing to do if you think something is going to let go out back, is a driveshaft loop. That way nothing gets beat to chit when it decides to go.
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2nd that and a u joint shield. Pieces of u joint can fly anywhere and really hurt someone. Good idea even if you only plan to hook once .
 
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blacksm0king said:
alrighty, a u-joint shield is just a piece of pipe covering the u-joint right?
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Yes sir. Ill shoot a few pics of mine and get em on here. We had a tech official get hurt last year from a busted u joint.

Rule as Copied From Battle of the Bluegrass Web site. ( Most places use this rule)
Driveshaft Loops:
All trucks must have at least six (6) inch wide u-joint shields around the rear ujoint
constructed of at least ¼ steel or 3/8 aluminum that will safely contain the ujoint
and the rear end of drive shaft. All shields must be securely mounted to the
vehicle. Any front shaft u-joint that is visible from the side of the truck must be
shielded to contain the u-joint and the of the shaft. A new puller may be granted a
one time wavier.
 
even if you get a one time waiver the by stander that gets hit could end up owning your truck.and much more.just a warning I seen it happen with a tractor.

Dale
 
2wpuller said:
even if you get a one time waiver the by stander that gets hit could end up owning your truck.and much more.just a warning I seen it happen with a tractor.

Dale
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Alot of places have done away with the one time waiver. All the orgs i have hooked with U joint shields are mandatory or you dont hook.
 
I have never seen ujoint shields around here on any truck. They should though, At some of the pulls around here they run 2 sleds, one sled specifically for bigger tractors and one for trucks and the smaller tractors. The one for trucks is usually the sled right next to the crowd. Most of the trucks around here are slightly modded 4x4 diesels or 2wd gassers.
 
Lets see if this works... Mine will contain everything if she comes loose. Got something similar up front.

Picture144.jpg
 
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